appreciate the help, sirI take that back; maybe the parts are different. Confirming.
appreciate the help, sirI take that back; maybe the parts are different. Confirming.
This is CORRECT! To simplify, take a quick look at your suspensions. If a spring sits ontop of the damper (see front) is called a strut and is integral b/c you cannot physically mount the spring without it. In the rear, the spring is mounted separately from the damper which is called a shock. You can technically ride without rear shocks for fun -you'll bounce like crazy (think hoopty + sound system = all dat bass bumping in the rear yo!)Struts are what you have up front, shocks are what you have in the rear.
A vehicle will have either a shock or a strut at each wheel, never both. ... The major difference between shocks and struts is that a strut is a structural part of the vehicles suspension system where a shock is not. A strut is also crucial part of the vehicles steering system and greatly affects alignment angles.
You options are:
1) Bilstein B4 all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
2) Koni FSD all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
3) KYB Excel G front + Gas Adjust rear (twin tubed OEM replacements, fka GR2)
If you want the little van to hang with the Elise (ok, maybe follow)
1) Bilstein B6 + add H&R + RSB (monotubed! and inverted (front), you need V50 rear)
2) Koni Sport + add H&R + RSB (twin tubed adjustable)
All Mazda5s (in the US) use the same chassis with the same mounting points. Unless money is hard to come by or you plan to dump the car within a year or two and don't care how the car rides, don't consider any of the preassembled kits... Let's just say they are not in the business to price things for goodwill.
This is CORRECT! To simplify, take a quick look at your suspensions. If a spring sits ontop of the damper (see front) is called a strut and is integral b/c you cannot physically mount the spring without it. In the rear, the spring is mounted separately from the damper which is called a shock. You can technically ride without rear shocks for fun -you'll bounce like crazy (think hoopty + sound system = all dat bass bumping in the rear yo!)
You options are:
1) Bilstein B4 all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
2) Koni FSD all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
3) KYB Excel G front + Gas Adjust rear (excel-G are twin tubed OEM replacements - fka GR2, rear Gas Adjust are monotubed)
If you want the little van to hang with the Elise (ok, maybe follow)
1) Bilstein B6 + add H&R + RSB (monotubed! and inverted (front), you need V50 rear)
2) Koni Sport + add H&R + RSB (twin tubed adjustable)
All Mazda5s (in the US) use the same chassis with the same mounting points. Unless money is hard to come by or you plan to dump the car within a year or two and don't care how the car rides, don't consider any of the preassembled kits... Let's just say they are not in the business to price things for goodwill.
This is CORRECT! To simplify, take a quick look at your suspensions. If a spring sits ontop of the damper (see front) is called a strut and is integral b/c you cannot physically mount the spring without it. In the rear, the spring is mounted separately from the damper which is called a shock. You can technically ride without rear shocks for fun -you'll bounce like crazy (think hoopty + sound system = all dat bass bumping in the rear yo!)
Thank you as always. I am leaning towards the Bilstein B4 for the fronts. I would like to keep the van till 150K miles, or another 4 years.
If I do the Bilstein B4 in the front for now, would that be ok with the OEM rear setup. Or is it a must to change the rear as well?
Also do you have a strut mount recommendation? Shop is quoting $61 per front strut mount.
They are also quoting 3.5 hours to do the job ($262.50) for the labor.
Lastly, where do you buy the BIlstein B4? Rock Auto only has front left. Tire rack didn't have any.
Getting bilsteins for the front is fine as long as you stick to the OEM b4 replacements. I would also get new OEM springs
Thank you. That is the plan. Now WHERE to get them is the first concern.
I didn't think the springs need replacement. The shop/dealer neither mentioned needing a replacement. You really think I need to replace the springs?
You can mix B4 front with OEM rears b/c they have similar (enough) damping profiles. However, I would recommend to do the rears also b/c 1) at your mileage, the rears are *likely* going soon esp. on this car with a heavy rear end 2) they don't cost much 3) they are very easy to install (you can DIY rears - 3 external bolts). Check Bilstein's catalog https://cart.bilsteinus.com/ for the exact part number, then simply google "Bilstein + part#" for lowest price. Bilstein offers limited lifetime warranty to original owner so do confirm the seller/vendor is legit.Thank you as always. I am leaning towards the Bilstein B4 for the fronts. I would like to keep the van till 150K miles, or another 4 years.
If I do the Bilstein B4 in the front for now, would that be ok with the OEM rear setup. Or is it a must to change the rear as well?
Also do you have a strut mount recommendation? Shop is quoting $61 per front strut mount.
They are also quoting 3.5 hours to do the job ($262.50) for the labor.
Lastly, where do you buy the BIlstein B4? Rock Auto only has front left. Tire rack didn't have any.
You can mix B4 front with OEM rears b/c they have similar (enough) damping profiles. However, I would recommend to do the rears also b/c 1) at your mileage, the rears are *likely* going soon esp. on this car with a heavy rear end 2) they don't cost much 3) they are very easy to install (you can DIY rears - 3 external bolts). Check Bilstein's catalog https://cart.bilsteinus.com/ for the exact part number, then simply google "Bilstein + part#" for lowest price. Bilstein offers limited lifetime warranty to original owner so do confirm the seller/vendor is legit.
3.5 hrs seems a little on the high end but you know your shop best. With air tools, I would say ~2.5 hrs.
Technically you don't need a new mount but some vendors sell the whole assembly. What you *may* (or may not) need is a new strut bushing (bearing b/c it has ball bearings in it), which sits inside of the strut mount. The strut is integral to suspension b/c it holds/compresses the spring. When you turn your steering wheel, this applies twisting/thrusting forces to the spring and the strut bearing rotates to negate these forces. As with any/all bearings, they can go bad over time but honestly I think you are fine considering the age (year) and condition (mileage) of your car really isn't that old. The risk is that if you don't replace it now and it goes bad the next 10K, you have to pay another 3.5hrs labor to swap it... The other part you *may* consider replacing is the jounce bumper (aka bump stop). They act as auxiliary springs and is constantly compressed, by design, in everyday driving. Aftermarket vendors sell them in different lengths, thickness, material quality which affects the ride quality but you'd have to know what you want. Again, I really don't think you need to -yet.
Strut bushing (bearing): 34381B
Bump stop: 34111
https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/...odel=14357&modelYear=2012&ukey_category=20262
You most likely do NOT need new springs. Unless these is a defect or used in a harsh environment, OEM springs should last the life of the car. Edit: as in typically ownership, obviously it will not last infinite miles/time.
Nice to hear that you can do it all at once. It will feel so much better. (cabpatch)Appreciate the help
I will get the bushing and bumpstop
I will also order the rear bilateins now
Thanks !!!
Nice to hear that you can do it all at once. It will feel so much better. (cabpatch)
Yes I also agree with Silentnoise713, that there is no need to mess with the springs unless you plan on lowering or lifting the car
I thought about doing eibach Springs since Car was new. Even rode in a friends car who has it and loved it (2012 mazda5)
I have mazdaspeed3 wheels on my car since new and we went with Michelin 225/45/18
Now if I put Springs on it will rub severely . Thus springs are no go , unless I downsize the tire which I don’t want to do
I did the rear shock test as suggested and it bounced right back
Everyones understanding and definition of what all these terms mean is extremely misinformed and all over the place, so lets not jump to any sort of conclusions here. Based on what Ive learned from talking to suspension experts on a bmw forum, it seems like the most common definition for these words was that a strut is the gas-filled thing that compresses, and the shock is the spring that goes around the strut. This seems to be the correct terminology.
'mazdadude's' explanation is how I've always understood it. When referring to suspension, there's no confusing struts and shocks.
If a suspension expert refers to a spring as a shock, they don't know what they're talking about. Sounds like the person that points at a monitor and calls it a CPU.
Why do you feel the need to replace the mount? Is the Mazda's different in that it is 'more' than just a piece of steel (a mount)? Its like the our common sway bar problem. If bad, you replace the bushing. Replacing the mount is a bit above and beyond... I 'think' your bushing/bearing and bump stops should last a while longer but no guarantees.Figure if we keep the car just do it all at once.
Strut mount is my next question. From the link silentnoise posted they are about $74 a side oem. Rock auto is about $30 each side.
Any recommendations ?
If you push down on a spring, it will naturally want to bounced right back up. What you want to look for is oscillations; ideally once it comes up the rear end stays up and not have to oscillate multiple times. Another thing you can do is drive at highway speeds (where dampers are put to the test) and have someone record the wheels when going over expansion joints/bumps and such. IF worn, you'll see it bounce up and down but you may not feel it in the cabin if the rest of the car's suspension is working to offset this. The good thing is the rears are so easy do DIY and not expensive, you can put it off to save a few bucks but at 87K already, why not just git-er-done the first time?I thought about doing eibach Springs since Car was new. Even rode in a friends car who has it and loved it (2012 mazda5)
I have mazdaspeed3 wheels on my car since new and we went with Michelin 225/45/18
Now if I put Springs on it will rub severely . Thus springs are no go , unless I downsize the tire which I don’t want to do
I did the rear shock test as suggested and it bounced right back
Here, just in case it helps.
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...R-Type-Coilovers-Mazda-5-(Review-and-Install)