Strange noise when shifting from 1st to 2nd or hitting a bump.

gmbellino

Member
:
2006 mazdaspeed6
I have a 2006 speed6 with 58k. When i'm in 1st and give it gas or when i shift into 2nd i hear a strange crunching noise. It is coming from the front right wheel/suspension. I can also hear the noise at lower speeds (less then 25/30) when i hit a bump in the road with that side of the car. Has anyone had/heard this before. Let me know. Thanks
 
Do your symptoms show up all the time, or only when the transmission is cold?

I'm having an issue with transmission noises coming up on 55k miles and colder weather. The noise is only there for the first 5 miles of my daily drive while the transmission is cold. I have oil for a fluid change and hope to see if the clunking noise goes away with fresh fluid.

The noise only appears when coming off or onto load. Sounds like excess clearance between the transmission gears, but once the transmission warms up the noise completely disappears. It could either be excess play in the transmission shaft(s), differential, or hopefully just needs new fluid.

Your problem could be similar to mine, or perhaps it could be an axle/CV joint. Does the sound appear when turning in a parking lot with the wheel locked left or right?
 
I'm having the exact same problem with my 2006 Speed 6. The crunching noise sounds like its coming from the rear right wheel side. Only occurs when the tranny's cold (first couple miles of the drive) and only when shifting from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd. Started in the summer, around June.

The car has 88,000 km on it. Replaced the tranny, pto, and rear diff fluid with Amsoil products at 86,000, but no change. Replaced the rear brakes and machined rotors at 87,000 with no benefit either. The noise comes with both the summer and winter tires on.

Even though I haven't been able to resolve the problem, its kind of comforting knowing its not only me having this issue. Maybe its one of the many common faults of the Speed?
 
gmbellino: I took my car to the dealer today to see if their 'master' tech could diagnose the clunk in my car. They diagnosed it as not a click, but a groan which appears to be coming from the front sway bar bushings. I think they have no idea what they were looking for on my car, but maybe this is a place to start with the noise you are experiencing. There is no way my click is bushing related as it goes away once there is some temperature in the driveline (maybe 100degF+). Have a look at your swaybar endlink bushings.

spec2speed: I did manage to replace my transmission fluid with Amsoil GL-4 and it had no effect on the noise. I have also developed a leak coming from the shift rod/tail shaft (under the airbox where the shifter cables attach to the transmission). The leak is bad enough that I have a drip on the garage floor developing. Can you inspect your transmission for a leak in this area?

The reason I took the car to the dealer is a suspicion that the click is related to the leak. Possibly the click is the shaft moving out of position, allowing the seal to open up. But still doesn't make sense that the noise goes away with increased temperature. The fluid has its highest viscosity when cold, so I'd assume that the noise would get worse with increased temperature, but is not the case.

I had my co-worker drive my car home today from the dealership to see what he thought. And he seemed to think it was coming from the rear, and an obvious click and not a groan as the dealership mis-diagnosed.

As I've driven the car the last few weeks, the click is still there when the e-brake is pulled (which disconnects the rear diff). So there is always negative torque being applied to the rear axle with the e-brake on and the click still is there seemingly coming from the front (transmission, transfer case, axles, driveshaft, etc.). Don't think it can be any sort of motor mount or rubber bushing. Still wondering if the leak and click are related. If you get a chance, try pulling the e-brake up a click or two while driving the car when cold and apply throttle in 1st or 2nd gear, going on-and-off load. Don't push in the clutch or shift gears when doing this test. Let me know if you still think the crunch/click is coming from the rear.

The dealership wants $30 for the seal and $700 to install. Makes sense as I'm sure it takes a full day to pull the transmission, pull apart, replace seal, and re-install. I'm capable of performing the seal replacement, just need to get a hold of a service manual. Maybe if I have the transmission apart I can check for wear and clearances to make sure the click isn't coming from the transmission.

In the end I paid $102 for a car wash at the dealer today. Going to call the service director tomorrow to see if he has any ideas.
 
have you all check the drive axles , sway bar link,wheel bearing & brake backing plates ,i have worked on a few cars with clicking sounds while driving most heard during slight turns which turned out to be the brake backing plate having a very slight movement ,and as per the sway bar link a slight clunk while going over bumps , not to say that this is the case with the mazdaspeed 6 , but someway to start looking ,the only issue i had with my speed6 when i first got it was the two studs that the p/s mounts is bolted to were loose ,after removing mount & re-torqueing studs my sound was gone .
 
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Hey as per your oil leak just lift rubber boot up & push seal down back into place ,clean with sone brakeclean and shop air ,then apply just a drop of silicone to two points on the seal mounting area let dry & refit dust boot & you r good ,that happen to me too which is caused by harsh gear shifting while whipping a subi's ass ha ha haaaa , so u can try that first before spending $700 bucks ,for the tech to may just be doing the same thing & collecting ,remember you r not allowed in the shop when your car is in there ,just saying ,good luck.
 
I fixed/replaced the shift linkage seal for $25 including the transmission shop manual and less than 2 hours of my time. Super easy fix done right and no need to remove the transmission. No effect on the clicking noise and no sign of excessive wear in the shift linkage assembly. No more trips to the dealership for this car, can't depend on their 'master certified mazdaspeed' technician for expert diagnosis or reasonably priced repairs.

The driveline click is still there. Still goes away after 2 minutes of driving after a cold start. I've disconnected the front swaybar and the click was still present, same as with the front swaybar connected. The axles don't exhibit excessive play nor do they click when turning. Still seems odd it goes away as the engine/driveline warms up.

I'll check the torque on the bolts holding on the power steering pump. The other thing that crossed my mind was a TSB that was related to the VVT actuator having issues/noise when cold. I'll dig into that too.
 
I'll check the torque on the bolts holding on the power steering pump. The other thing that crossed my mind was a TSB that was related to the VVT actuator having issues/noise when cold. I'll dig into that too.

Its funny you mention the VVT actuator issue. I just had this fixed at the dealer 2 weeks ago. They replaced the VVT actuator and timing chain. I had this done because upon cold starts there was a less than 1 second vibration coming from the engine bay. I researched online and found the TSB for the VVT. Printed it out and took it to the dealer. They confirmed the problem. Once they were done with the car, the vibration from the engine bay was completely gone.

However, I'm not sure if this also fixed the vibration/thumping coming from the rear of the car. I haven't heard it since, but its also been 25-30 degrees (Celsius) around here the last few weeks and the car starts warm. I'll have to wait til the temp drops a bit and see.

I was also wondering if the noise is possibly due to "shift thump". I'm going to be installing a new rear motor mount in the next few weeks, hoping this will also make the thump go away.
 
Don't have time to read all the remedies but I had a similar problem as well...

My problem: Creaking/grinding sound when shifting between gears or lifting off throttle. Sound was very audible on cold mornings and would go away after about 5 miles of driving.

Dealer solution: Replaced one of the motor mounts. They are liquid filled and one had partially drained. It was covered under my extended warranty.
 
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