thecrash91
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
So I used to have an issue where my car would turn over just fine, but it would never fire up and start. After many tests and attempts my mechanic told me that it had to do with timing, because most of the time when I try to start my car itll backfire before I eventually get it started. Another thing is that no matter how bad it seems it will always start, no matter what. I am never left trying for more than 4-5 minutes. So I removed the timing portion of the engine management, because we thought that it was fried and causing the starting issues, and the car started flawlessly!!! for about a year, and about a month or so ago it started again. I originally thought that it may be a bad solder job on the wiring from when the engine management was in, but I redid all the connections today with crimp connections and although its acting a little better, its still giving me the same issue. I have uploaded some videos to show some of my symptoms, the first video is me showing how it cranks but doesnt fire, then the method that I have to use to start the car, I have to basically prime the starter a couple times and suddenly it turns over twice as fast and fires right the **** up.
http://youtu.be/83iWKcJKmXo
The second video is what sometimes happens, and it seems as if the car momentarily fixes itself and starts normal
http://youtu.be/PGzppbHjjKI
The third video is a multimeter hooked up to measure the voltage between the crank + and crank - . im not exactly sure what thats supposed to prove, but i figured itd help to know how the ecu is reacting to RPM change.
http://youtu.be/zK2F0U2i2BQ
I have already replaced the crank and cam position sensor with known working units. I have also tested the voltage on the crank sensor harness, and it was around 4.5 volts when the key was in the on position. I tested that with the 2 outside prongs, as the middle is the signal i believe. Another weird occurrence also happened today, I was messing around with a couple different things, as I finally bought a multimeter today, and my neighbor told me to check my fuses, the 60A ignition fuse was fine, but the plastic cover was broken off, I swapped it with the ABS 60A fuse (my abs light is tripped so it doesnt matter anyway) and the car started flawlessly about 5 times in a row then went back to normal. the car also seems to start up right away when I reset the ECU. I am really stumped with this, and its such a pain in the ass and its so embarrassing to have to have a special method to start my car, please help!!
http://youtu.be/83iWKcJKmXo
The second video is what sometimes happens, and it seems as if the car momentarily fixes itself and starts normal
http://youtu.be/PGzppbHjjKI
The third video is a multimeter hooked up to measure the voltage between the crank + and crank - . im not exactly sure what thats supposed to prove, but i figured itd help to know how the ecu is reacting to RPM change.
http://youtu.be/zK2F0U2i2BQ
I have already replaced the crank and cam position sensor with known working units. I have also tested the voltage on the crank sensor harness, and it was around 4.5 volts when the key was in the on position. I tested that with the 2 outside prongs, as the middle is the signal i believe. Another weird occurrence also happened today, I was messing around with a couple different things, as I finally bought a multimeter today, and my neighbor told me to check my fuses, the 60A ignition fuse was fine, but the plastic cover was broken off, I swapped it with the ABS 60A fuse (my abs light is tripped so it doesnt matter anyway) and the car started flawlessly about 5 times in a row then went back to normal. the car also seems to start up right away when I reset the ECU. I am really stumped with this, and its such a pain in the ass and its so embarrassing to have to have a special method to start my car, please help!!
