speaker replacement

[mazdaspeed32007]

so i was in my cousins jeep the other day with a factory infinity system and realized, wow, wtf is up with this bose system in my ride? then i got in my brothers prius with the jbl system....and once again the ms3 bose system was stomped yet again. i want to buy some infinity speakers as factory replacements because i just cant stand the rears not being able to take the full audio sound and the tweaters sucking ass and the front rattling and sounding like s***. im jealous of these other systems kicking serious ass out of the factory and me being a huge music lover dealing with a crappy system with a great brand name.

im not so knowledgable on speakers and was wondering if anyone would help me find something i could basically just swap out from stock. like i said, hopefully infinity speakers, affordable but tight, and something i could possibly swap out for stockers. thanks for the help!

 

[kvndoom]

Dunno if it's still posted, but a guy recently had 2 pairs of Infinity 5x7/6x8's up for sale in the FS section. Also check out the "fix for Bose" thread for buying/installing a 12 dollar pair of tweeters that sound pretty damn incredible. Pretty much any 5x7 or 6x8 will fit the factory holes. You'll need https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) if you want to install 6.5's.

I will warn you in advance that eventually you will have to buy an amp too- getting rid of the speakers is only half the battle. The real downfall of the blose is the amplifier with its crappy sound processing.

The upside is that you can get a sub and run it from the blose amp's sub output and it doesn't sound half bad. The 5" piece of s*** under the passenger seat is a joke. Get a decent sub to throw in the hatch, and take those wires to it. It makes a huge difference, and that plus replacing door speakers might be enough for you if you're not really after a lot of power.

BOSE: (B)ased (O)n (S)hitty (E)qualization

 

[mazdaspeed32007]

Dunno if it's still posted, but a guy recently had 2 pairs of Infinity 5x7/6x8's up for sale in the FS section. Also check out the "fix for Bose" thread for buying/installing a 12 dollar pair of tweeters that sound pretty damn incredible. Pretty much any 5x7 or 6x8 will fit the factory holes. You'll need https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) if you want to install 6.5's.

I will warn you in advance that eventually you will have to buy an amp too- getting rid of the speakers is only half the battle. The real downfall of the blose is the amplifier with its crappy sound processing.

The upside is that you can get a sub and run it from the blose amp's sub output and it doesn't sound half bad. The 5" piece of s*** under the passenger seat is a joke. Get a decent sub to throw in the hatch, and take those wires to it. It makes a huge difference, and that plus replacing door speakers might be enough for you if you're not really after a lot of power.

BOSE: (B)ased (O)n (S)hitty (E)qualization

what size amplifier would i be running for these speakers? i would assume i wouldnt need something to wonderful seeming how im just running to 5x7 6x8. also i read a few things about attempting to enclose the door speakers because theyre open to the whole door and that would push the mids out a lot better. how about if i run the stock woofer amplifier to the new door speakers and another amp to a sub if i plan on running a sub? or would i be better off buying an amp for the speakers and bonking the sub? and would a crossover be reccommended to the door speakers to drop out the lows and just let the awesome 5"-er take care of the lows.....sorry for all the questions. im just trying to run the best possible scenerio for myself. thanks

 

[meicalnissyen]

Dunno if it's still posted, but a guy recently had 2 pairs of Infinity 5x7/6x8's up for sale in the FS section. Also check out the "fix for Bose" thread for buying/installing a 12 dollar pair of tweeters that sound pretty damn incredible. Pretty much any 5x7 or 6x8 will fit the factory holes. You'll need https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) if you want to install 6.5's.

I will warn you in advance that eventually you will have to buy an amp too- getting rid of the speakers is only half the battle. The real downfall of the blose is the amplifier with its crappy sound processing.

The upside is that you can get a sub and run it from the blose amp's sub output and it doesn't sound half bad. The 5" piece of s*** under the passenger seat is a joke. Get a decent sub to throw in the hatch, and take those wires to it. It makes a huge difference, and that plus replacing door speakers might be enough for you if you're not really after a lot of power.

BOSE: (B)ased (O)n (S)hitty (E)qualization

Interesting thought, wonder how well the blose amp would do driving an 8 in the jack stealth box, if that was all it had to do (uhm)

 

[Breezy]

If you just want t a good factory system do the things in the fix for Bose postings. It just involves replacing the cheesy tweeters and then putting crossovers in for the door speakers. There are two posts to read ..
The fix for Bose
and something about Cheap Blose fix

 

[kvndoom]

Interesting thought, wonder how well the blose amp would do driving an 8 in the jack stealth box, if that was all it had to do (uhm)

I got a 12" square Kicker sub in a ported box, used off Craigslist. It made a hell of a difference. If it wasn't for the damn EQ and the stock amp put out a flat signal, I might have stayed with just that for a while longer. But bose just totally distorts certain parts of certain songs I listen to, regardless of volume.

Doesn't hurt to try, I think a 12 is too much for this car honestly. A good 8" or 10" might be a perfect match. Worst case scenario, you need more juice to be happy, but the sub's in place and the wires are already run. (yupnope)

 

[mazdaspeed32007]

ok so i think ill buy an 8 or 10 and run the factory amplifier to that. then ill get crossovers for the factory speakers, replace the tweaters, and call it a day. im not looking for something that blows the doors off the adjacent vehicle....just something....better than this stock stereo. its disappointing. thanks yall....ill let you know how it all works out. im also going to try to enclose those door speakers to tighten up those mids.

 

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

If you decide to run a sub off the factory amp, you need to make damn sure to get an efficient one. You might be better off running the wiring to the back as a power source and signal for a sub with a built in amp.

 

[mazdaspeed32007]

If you decide to run a sub off the factory amp, you need to make damn sure to get an efficient one. You might be better off running the wiring to the back as a power source and signal for a sub with a built in amp.

your saying run the wiring from the head unit to the factory amp, but eliminate the factory amp and get a sub/amp combo and use the same wiring? and on the other hand get a sub that isnt going to draw to much power form the factory amp? i think an 8 or 10 inch sub woudnt draw to much power and sound decent. im really looking to just replace the speakers with good speakers in hopes the factory head unit can do the rest....i know the back speakers deal with the whole range of sound but with a decent speaker i believe it would sound good and make a world of difference....no?

 

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

your saying run the wiring from the head unit to the factory amp, but eliminate the factory amp and get a sub/amp combo and use the same wiring? and on the other hand get a sub that isnt going to draw to much power form the factory amp? i think an 8 or 10 inch sub woudnt draw to much power and sound decent. im really looking to just replace the speakers with good speakers in hopes the factory head unit can do the rest....i know the back speakers deal with the whole range of sound but with a decent speaker i believe it would sound good and make a world of difference....no?

What I said there didn`t really make sense did it? If you were to use the signal wire going to the original sub you would need to run power wire to the back as well. When I said efficient, that doesn`t necessarily mean tiny, just something that makes use of every bit of power being consumed. Whatever sub size you choose, shop for an efficient one.

 

[kvndoom]

your saying run the wiring from the head unit to the factory amp, but eliminate the factory amp and get a sub/amp combo and use the same wiring? and on the other hand get a sub that isnt going to draw to much power form the factory amp? i think an 8 or 10 inch sub woudnt draw to much power and sound decent. im really looking to just replace the speakers with good speakers in hopes the factory head unit can do the rest....i know the back speakers deal with the whole range of sound but with a decent speaker i believe it would sound good and make a world of difference....no?

With a powered sub you could tap from the head unit into the low-level inputs or from the amp with high-level inputs. The advantage of tapping off low-level is you have control of your bass as compared to what the bose amp sends to the sub channel.

The (possible) disadvantage is that bose sends bass to the front speakers no matter what in order to make up for the piss-poor subwoofer (fade to the rear and put your ear to the front speakers), so sending the full bass range to the sub might make your overall sound more bass-heavy than you care for.

At least with an amplified sub you have the option of trying both methods to see what suits you. But if you know someone with a passive sub who would let you borrow it for a while, you could see if that suits you before shelling out your cash.

 

[mazdaspeed32007]

ok. ill try using a 8-10 inch sub off the factory amp first and picking up some crossovers for the rear speakers and some semi decent tweaters. neglecting the other options how do you think this would sound overall? like i said im looking for a decent/good sounding factory stereo not a total system. something along the lines of jeeps factory infinity stereo or toyotas jbl system. something you can turn up when you want to.