So I broke my p5 tonight... What do you think I broke?
- Thread starter nealric
- Start date
disdorkching
Member
- :
- p5 2002
nealric said:
Will car-parts have a sure fit? I'm looking into getting a lower control arm too. Mybuddy bought a crash beam for his corolla but it ended up not fitting, now I'm unsure of the accuracy of aftermarket parts.
Also where'd you get yorus done at??
Thanks
Last edited:
disdorkching said:
Well, Im in the process of doing it myself (at least the getting the old part off). There is just one point of attachment I am having trouble with. I wanted to have the old part in hand to make sure I am getting the right thing. After looking at it, I realized I am a total idiot
for going to firestone. It was so obviously bent it wasn't even funny- I was just looking in the wrong place. car-part is not aftermarket parts generally. They are junkyard parts. However, I am tempted to get a new one from ebay for $90.
disdorkching
Member
- :
- p5 2002
nealric said:Well, Im in the process of doing it myself (at least the getting the old part off). There is just one point of attachment I am having trouble with. I wanted to have the old part in hand to make sure I am getting the right thing. After looking at it, I realized I am a total idiot
car-part is not aftermarket parts generally. They are junkyard parts. However, I am tempted to get a new one from ebay for $90.
Oh ic, did you get your part off car-parts then? if so, how much? Let me know how it goes.
thanks
LOL HA HA I have done this sooo many times!!!
this is (super sorry to say) not a DIY at all. way far from it. I have rebuit a bunch of motors, but cant do this. you will need many special suspension tools to do any of this your self. THE best case you bent a tie rod. outer or iner either way you will need a pickel fork or a iner tie rod tool (kinda expensive). if you can still drive without a INCREADABLE nosie its not a driveshaft "u-joint". a lower contol arm I can pick up from car-parts all the time for $90 shiped. that part sluts it seft out from like 98 to 04 or somthing like that. in any case that should be enuogh to find one localy. without experance and taking the wheel of its imposable to tell if you bent somthing. a outer tie rod is somthing you should not buy used even if your poor. trust me i have worked in bike shops most of my working life so I know poor! take it to a shop that can do the repair and the alginment.
I have had this happen so many times my sub frame is fuged. but now I know to spend the extra 50 bucks to go to NTB and get the life time aglinment so every time I go to diffrent tracks I can stop by and have the car set up for free.(glare)
this is (super sorry to say) not a DIY at all. way far from it. I have rebuit a bunch of motors, but cant do this. you will need many special suspension tools to do any of this your self. THE best case you bent a tie rod. outer or iner either way you will need a pickel fork or a iner tie rod tool (kinda expensive). if you can still drive without a INCREADABLE nosie its not a driveshaft "u-joint". a lower contol arm I can pick up from car-parts all the time for $90 shiped. that part sluts it seft out from like 98 to 04 or somthing like that. in any case that should be enuogh to find one localy. without experance and taking the wheel of its imposable to tell if you bent somthing. a outer tie rod is somthing you should not buy used even if your poor. trust me i have worked in bike shops most of my working life so I know poor! take it to a shop that can do the repair and the alginment.
I have had this happen so many times my sub frame is fuged. but now I know to spend the extra 50 bucks to go to NTB and get the life time aglinment so every time I go to diffrent tracks I can stop by and have the car set up for free.(glare)
nonameheroes
Member
- :
- 2002 Protege LX
umm...guys...look at his updated post...he took it in and got it figured out...the shop said the control arm...its a control arm...sheesh...learn to read ya nubs
I did the exact same thing...here are the results:
New bearing: they don't take impacts very well
Swaybar endlink: held on with plactic grommets (bad idea)
Steering knuckle
Steering rack (damn expensive): did not self-center after the accident
Strut: bent mine by 1 degree causing the alignment to be way off
Basically, Mazda built the front end to collapse on impact. You would think that at 10mph like we did, there would not be sooo much damage.
Hope this helps!
New bearing: they don't take impacts very well
Swaybar endlink: held on with plactic grommets (bad idea)
Steering knuckle
Steering rack (damn expensive): did not self-center after the accident
Strut: bent mine by 1 degree causing the alignment to be way off
Basically, Mazda built the front end to collapse on impact. You would think that at 10mph like we did, there would not be sooo much damage.
Hope this helps!
sanblaster
Member
- :
- 2009 CWP Mazda Axela Sport & 2006 Nissan 350z
Patrick's a noob..
Focuz_Freek_XxX
Member
On my old Focus I was driving at about 40mph and some damned curb just jumped out and hit my front right wheel and bounced my car into the other lane. The steering wheel was pretty much the same way you described. I was able to drive the car fine cept for the steering wheel being all out of whack. Took it to the alignment shop and they aligned it. And the steering wheel was perfect.
