screw in my engine? was recal preventive work not done like it should be? help!

i have decided to try to do the work myself. well not myself but with help of my friend this sunday. i will attempt to remove the vtcs at the same time and port the intake. i can't be anymore pissed than i already am so i will just make a positive experience out of all this. if i run into a problem of some kind i have this forum to help me and in last option the dealer. my friend will let me use his van while we do this project or i will rent a car if he wont. anyone know if i remove the vtcs will i get a cel?
 
I still recommend the garage/trusted mech. Pull the first cat and take a picture of the screw. You could win this.
 
i just need to see the vics and see the screw missing that should be enough for them to see that the problem was not corrected during the recall.
 
i can't be anymore pissed than i already am so i will just make a positive experience out of all this. if i run into a problem of some kind i have this forum to help me and in last option the dealer.
They blows. Your know you are doing us all a tremendous favor for figuring this out. We owe you. (canada)
 
UPDATE!! I took my intake manifold off today. and as i expected the screw from one of the butterflies was missing and the other screw still attached to the rod that makes the butterflies turn. now here is the kicker of this whole thing. the butterfly from the #4 runner (closest to the battery) was no longer attached and i found it in the intake chamber itself while one of the screws still attached to the rod!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have pics but will post them in the next post as i didn't get a chance to upload them yet. the whole on the butterfly was so big that it just came off the screw and fell inside the chamber!!!!!!!!!!!! also! the butterfly from the #3 runner was also loose already at this time and it was a matter of time before that came loose and fell in. another thing is i noticed is that none of the VICS screws had loctite applied to them so even if they were torqued i really dont think they would stay in there forever. the VTCS screws were all loctited so that was a good thing.

Here is my question for the experts here. if i remove both the VICS and VTCS will i have a check engine light? assuming all electrical plugs and sensors are connected will I get a CEL? I really hope i don't. I want to eliminate the chance of any more screws falling in the the engine and doing more damage the future. I will also do porting on the intake tubes and hope i can gain some more power. it took me about 2.5 hours to take the intake manifold off as there were countless hoses and connectors to take off. and i expect to take twice as long if not longer to put everything back together. im a amateur mechanic so im not as swift as some other people but i can assure you that doing this work takes 2 people.
 
Keep the vics and you can remove the vtcs which helps on start up with injector spray but yeah just keep them plugged in and you might get 1-2hp.
 
pictures as promised (huge to show detail):

bad VICS with butterfly and screw missing

DSC_2534crop.jpg

1 good VICS butterfly and 1 bad VICS butterfly with 1 screw missing

DSC_2535crop.jpg


VICS butterfly that was laying loose inside the intake runner

DSC_2536crop.jpg

butterflies (VICS on top, VTCS on bottom), VTCS rod, small screws that hold both VICS and VTCS butterflies

DSC_2557crop.jpg


top of intake manifold after 2 cans of brake parts cleaner

DSC_2559crop.jpg
 
If I remember correctly...you'll lose all of your topend power what there is of it! The butterflies are activated at like 5200rpms to only use the top chamber of runners. Below that it is basically a long runner intake for more lowend torque.
 
ok guys. i cant be borrowing my moms car and my friends car that much longer so i will be putting my engine intake back in this weekend. decided to eliminate VICS and VTCS. VICS will not make much difference at low end but i talked with some people and it will help at mid and top end of the engine rpms. VTCS from what i been reading noone wants so it will be out for sure. i will also not do any porting to the intake because the output ports of the intake are smaller than the input ports of the head so to me porting this part wont do anything. having a 2 - 3 mm lip on the intake output ports will cause a little turbulance in the cylinder and that is good so the fuel will mix slightly better. What do you guys think?
 
Keep VICS.
Just pulling the VTCS and plugging the holes will help. A mild port would not hurt - but does not do a whole lot for us.

Mazda should pay for all this!~
 
+2 on keeping the VICS with red loctited screws & a couple of fresh butterflies that aren't wallowed out. I cut the rod for VTCS flush with the 1st runner & kept the acuator in place where it just spins the nub thinking it's really still doing something, smoothed out the runner ridges, hi temp quick steel the holes between the other runners. Looks no different upon visual inspection. NA is gutless enough without robbing it of any more low end torque by removing VICS. Running higher rpms all the time to compensate will just speed up wear on valve stem seals & you'll be burning oil sooner & clogging your cat etc etc etc. Yes, let Mazda put new recall replacement intake on with all fresh parts then do the removal on the fresh intake.
 
mazda will not do crap for me. they will blame me for this. i don't want to deal with them. as far as me keeping VICS then i would need to buy one new butterfly. and i wonder if they will sell me just 1. after i have it then i want to rivet them on like they should be done. my friend says rivets will fall out. i dont think so.
 
If the VIN is within range of recall they have to swap it out if their records show that it has not been done. Mine was at dealer for something completely unrelated & they did it without me even asking just because their system showed it had not been done. I had actually already loctited VICS & removed the VTCS butterflies but not removed the stalk. Took the recall intake off & put it in the attic because I had another intake that I took out VTCS completely, ported/polished & loctited the VICS on. I would check what their records indicate then put the car back together without the loose s*** in it & take it to them & get the new intake OR find someone here in the FS section selling an intake so you'll have all fresh VICS stuff & just do the it yourself. I would say no on the riveting. The red loctite & tightening them down real good will keep them in place. Oh, BTW, I already sold that 3rd intake I had or I'd hook ya up with a fresh butterfly, the recall one is staying intact, sorry.
 
Last edited:
you think they will do anything for me if i bring them the whole intake for them to look at? i mean after they look at the intake ill town the car there. ill walk in with the intake in my hands and put it right on the service counter? i really can't waste more time with this.
 
Do not use rivets! Just get some loctite red threadlocker (that's what it's for). You should have no problems getting one butterfly.
 
i think i will put it back without the VICS. if i really notice a big problem ill take it off and put them back in. i rather totally eliminate the problem. has anyone actually ran their car without VICS? I know i may appear stubborn but i want to have nice free flowing intake and eliminate any air restrictions.
 
The VICS alters the intake path longer or shorter according to rpms in order to maintain the little torque it has & to help squeeze out a bit more mpg I bet. If turbo then I'd say go with the single runner no nothin intake. VICS stays on my NA sport auto...enough pwr/trq issues as it is. lol
 
i like the pull that you get when the VICS kicks in at 5250 rpm. i want that same power at lower rpms too.
 
Back