RR Sway Bar Issues?

reviving old thread.. but wondering if stock miata endlinks would work the same as AWR? i got D2's in and the clunk in the rear when there's weight in the back.. so i'm assuming the endlinks are long.. :)
 
Glauconite said:
reviving old thread.. but wondering if stock miata endlinks would work the same as AWR? i got D2's in and the clunk in the rear when there's weight in the back.. so i'm assuming the endlinks are long.. :)
If you flip over you rear lower control arm even the stockers will not hit if lowered 3" like me. Take a look from the rear of your car and you'll see what i mean. They bump up at the endlink. flip them over and then they bump down. problem solved.
 
Pretzellogic said:
I can't think of one. Welding on a strut would be interesting to watch, but only from a safe distance.


I'd do it, not a worry. We weld on pipes with 200 degree gasoline in them at 150+psi all day. Know what you're doing and dont burn through. They are way thinner than the pipe I weld on though, so I would def recommend you TIG it on.
 
I have the progress rear swaybar and installation was easy. The only thing your going to need is more lithium grease which can be found at any auto store. The tab should be fine but I have the tokico illuminas so not really sure. When doing the endlink, remove the upper one first then when you have everything out, get an open/close 14 and an allan wrench to loosen the end link from the bar. Attach it to the new bar and install. I have no rubbing issues and I have the H&R sport springs. Anything lower that a 1.3 drop might rub and I also have 17's. But there should be no prob.
 
17s here too, stock endlinks, progress bar, 1.3 drop, same amount trimmed from bumpstops on stock struts with no leaks, fitment or noise issues.
 
Nothing other than noise issues. At first I thought it was rubbing and I checked it and it was fine. The only other thing I figured it to be were the bushings. I got more lithium grease and the problem went away. I did have to remove the plastic panel on the rear drivers side because when I would have ppl in the rear it would bottom out and the plastic ate up my tire.
 
Oh and with fitment, the only thing i hate is how they desinged the bushings for the bar. Get everything put together while its out and not under the car.
 
I am running the Progress 22mm swaybar with AWR endlinks and trailing links and GoldLine springs with Tokico Blues HP and have no issues other than I had to use a big impact socket and a floor jack to bend the brakcets to fit, more like a mushing them into place type of thing.

I love the how tight the car feels....
 
Glauconite said:
kyle's protege5

got a picture?? and easy DIY to do??

Here's a pic and PM me and i can make an easy "how to" for you
under.jpg
 
ooh perfect.. thx :D:D i'll check out under the car when weather gets nicer here... damn rain >,<

one question thou, did you jack up the car to do it or just left it on ground??
 
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easiest way to remove endlinks...get a good 6 point socket on there to break it loose...then use a box wrench and a 5mm allen wrench to get the nut off
 
or a dremel for those who didn't know that until they already cut them off...

TampaSport20 said:
easiest way to remove endlinks...get a good 6 point socket on there to break it loose...then use a box wrench and a 5mm allen wrench to get the nut off
 
i just took a look @ the lateral links.. mine are straight.. not bent @ all :S.. i guess i just need shorter end links..
 
yep, my are straight too, but I had to replace one of mine and a friend of mine.. becuase we both bent them hitting crap in the road. it is a pain in the ass you have to drop the subframe to replace them...
 
apocman said:
man those lateral links look bent in that picture....
all 4 are exactly the same on mine. t5hey were all bent down right at the spot dirrectly below the endlinks. thats why flipping them made the bump in the perfect spot once it was pointing down.


So far no one else has the bump in theirs like mine? Thats wierd. Wonder why mine does?
 
apocman said:
it is a pain in the ass you have to drop the subframe to replace them...

yes you do for the front ones, but the back ones you do not. it took me all of maybe 1/2 hour start to finish including jacking it up and taking off the tires.

if you do have the bump up you only need to flip the back ones to avoid them hitting the endlinks
 
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