Rotor Replacement

Protoge 5

Member
Ok i got a positive response to my question about brake pad replacement. How hard is it to replace the rotors all the way around (front and back). I have a 02' Protege 5 with originals. Figured while i was replacing the pads i would throw some new rotors as well. Any tips or helps. Are the calipers the only thing that hold the rotors on? Thanks for any info.
 
I am doing pads and rotor's both and i dont have experience with either. So that thread was honestly priceless. But it mainly covers pad replacement and piston retraction for rear calipers. I have not started so i just want to get as much info as i can before i begin this learning experience. From what i can tell once the calipers are off the rotor should come right off? I just tap the rotors with a rubber hammer and they should slide off correct?
 
Correct, we just did my front rotors using the How-to and it was exactly as it described.
 
Thank you very much. Is the rear rotor the same and just as easy as the front (hit it with hammer)? Thought maybe it would be diffrent since the rear is the e-brake too.
 
Protoge 5 said:
Thank you very much. Is the rear rotor the same and just as easy as the front (hit it with hammer)? Thought maybe it would be diffrent since the rear is the e-brake too.

Yea, removing the rear rotors is done the same way - soft hits with a rubber mallet should do it.

The e-brake related things are the e-brake cable clip (step 3), and the piston retraction hex nut in the rear of the calipers (steps 6 and 7). Most everything else is the same b/w front and rear.

I did my brakes a month ago (replaced pads, turned rotors), and it was pretty straightforward. The thread on front/rear brake sevicing is excellent. (Thanks to NIV for setting it up.)

Good luck!

q
 
Indeed, it's a very simple service. I too used the rubber mallet when installing my Brembos all around. Just note that you may have to bang on the rotors hard from the rear if they are rusted on.
 
i had to beat the s*** out off all four rotors when i changed them each time.........

they eventually will come off.......

-R
 
Protoge 5 said:
Thank you very much. Is the rear rotor the same and just as easy as the front (hit it with hammer)? Thought maybe it would be diffrent since the rear is the e-brake too.

correct me if im wrong but isn't thier a set screw on the rear calipers for the e-brake that you have to adjust to get the piston to compress?
 
my rotors were an 8 hour job. the rears came off fairly easy but the fronts were the original and 5 years of michigan winters and the like really rusted them on. Buy some PB blaster that'll help. If they are really stuck let the PB soak for a good 30 min and spraying it every once in awhile and using a propane torch then smack it with a hammer. A 3lb hammer will do.
 
Protoge 5 said:
I am doing pads and rotor's both and i dont have experience with either. So that thread was honestly priceless. But it mainly covers pad replacement and piston retraction for rear calipers. I have not started so i just want to get as much info as i can before i begin this learning experience. From what i can tell once the calipers are off the rotor should come right off? I just tap the rotors with a rubber hammer and they should slide off correct?

Should is the operative word there. Mine took a torch and a 16 ounce framing hammer, and days of work.
 
you guys must love to do things by brute force
it takes merely seconds to put in a 8x1.25 bolt and tighten it in a hole of the rotor hat to push it off the hub

hammering? oh please, that's for domestics
 
Awww, now people will stop wondering what those threaded holes are for, it's a sad day in autorepairville. The mystery is solved, urban myth busted, cat's outta the bag, the secret's out. Normally there is an expensive lesson associated with such knowledge gains.
 
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Hammer? Winter? Man y'all are weird. When I did mine, after getting the pads and calipers off (hardest part was the caliper bolts) the rotors almost fell off by themselves lol.
 
TheMAN said:
you guys must love to do things by brute force
it takes merely seconds to put in a 8x1.25 bolt and tighten it in a hole of the rotor hat to push it off the hub

Dude, you live in Texas. How rusted do your rotors get compared to the northeast region? Just look at this b**** I had to get off. This was after I had to drill out the two rusted screws holding the rotor onto the hub.

rotor2.jpg
 
The Mazda Reapir Tech Data really does say, '...and beat the piss outa' it wit' a hammer!'

That rotor is surely going to Heaven - you dun' beat the Hell outa' it!
;)
 
TheMAN said:
you guys must love to do things by brute force
it takes merely seconds to put in a 8x1.25 bolt and tighten it in a hole of the rotor hat to push it off the hub

hammering? oh please, that's for domestics

I'm not that stupid. On my stock rotors, that hole was rusted to crap. You live in Texas, come up here and look underneath my car and tell me again that brute force isn't needed. I have to do things like pour boiling water on my wheels to get them to come off in the spring :p
 
altspace said:
Dude, you live in Texas. How rusted do your rotors get compared to the northeast region? Just look at this b**** I had to get off. This was after I had to drill out the two rusted screws holding the rotor onto the hub.

rotor2.jpg

Are you sure that isnt my front rotors? Mine looked identical to this when I finally got them off.

You southern boys have it easy.
 
Slow_Q said:
Yea, removing the rear rotors is done the same way - soft hits with a rubber mallet should do it.

...

q

I stand corrected: you may have to pound the crap out of the rotors with a heavy metal sledge.
LOL

I guess we also have it easy here in the Northwest...


Cheers,
q
 

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