Rich and studdering problem

[brandontt26]

Ok so for the last 2 weeks my car has been studdering really bad, it's not like a bogging out from the stock ecu it's not fuel cut its like popping at wot and sounds like not getting enough fuel, I have a 02 sensor heater circuit code for the sensor behind the cat, I took it out cleaned it and tested the heater circuit wires with a multimeter and there running 12 volts like they should, now I went and sprayed the injectors with brake cleaner wile car was running and it made the engine die down wich tells me there's a vac leak there I took off fuel rail and cleaned the groves the injectors go into, not the fuel rail but the engine side. It's the 2 left injectors if your facing the front of the car, the green ones. There were also no seals there either, there were O rings where the injectors go into the fuel rail but on the engine side there were no seals just those plastic ring things so I don't know if they are supposed to have seals or not. Also my car is running super rich, below 10.0 I installed the ssafc 3 days ago and no matter what map I put on it the car still runs pig rich, (I tried a few maps from the sticky) the ssafc is hooked up correct and I'm writing the maps to the ecu correct. Also today I just got a p0171 code bank 1 too lean wich I'm assuming is from the fuel injector leak.. My question is do you think the studdering is from the bank 2 o2 sensor or the injectors? It doesn't make sense because I'm still running super rich.. The O2 sensor on my exhaust mani is less then a month old too. That's what I'm running my A/f guage from. The MAF sensor is less then 2 months old and I changed and gapped the plugs correctly yesterday. Any ideas? All FMIC pips are good everything is good I checked it all so I'm stuck here what do you guys think?

 

[Preferio]

First off, there is no "bank 2" O2 sensor. I assume you mean the downstream sensor. If that's what you mean, no it will cause zero drivability concerns. It simply monitors the exhaust to make sure the converter is doing it's job. What do your AFRs go to when it "pops"?

 

[brandontt26]

It's the 02 sensor right behind the cat.. And it's blinking 10.0

 

[brandontt26]

But it's always done that before I got the ssafc too. It's always ran that rich but like I said within the last 2 weeks I been getting the stuttering ..

 

[Blake D]

put new injector seals in if there leaking. a vac/boost leak will cause some nasty issues and make the car un-tuneable.

 

[brandontt26]

Put new seals on injectors they are no longer leaking, I searched every vac line and sprayed them with brake cleaner and I can not find a leak.. Sometimes by car Vac will sit at 19-20 HG then 16... it usually sat right at 19-20 before I put the SSAFC in but after it usually sits at 16.. But I also don't think a little vac leak like that could be making my car run like it is now.. Is it possible the 02 sensor on the exhaust mani just took a s***? I'm getting a code from it saying I'm running too lean but my gauge says im running pig rich...below 10:1.. Also this morning I got a p0090 fuel pressure regulator circut code. The FPR is like a month and a half old, could the solenoid be bad? I'm gonna switch out my fuel pump right now since I have a spare and see if that does anything.

 

[brandontt26]

Ok update I took out the front o2 sensor on the mani and cleaned it and the connector put back in and now I'm getting 14:1 at idle and like 16-18:1 on wot so that explains the lean code I got, I left the car running and un plugged each injector 1 at a time and the engine died a little for each one so I know they are ok... so it's either the FPR solenoid or the fuel pump.. the only thing that's weird is the fuel pump is literally 3 months old.. a Walbro 255.. so maybe leaning more toward FPR solenoid?

 

[Gabi]

You definitely have a vacuum leak somewhere. My gauge reads 24hg during idle with the a/c off and 22hg with the a/c on. Finding leaks on this car can be troublesome. I ended up replacing all my vacuum lines, injector seals, intake manifold and throttle body gaskets. I went overboard with the intake manifold and throttle body gaskets and with all honesty I had no leaks there. I figure I might as well lol. At the least replace all your vacuum lines.

 

[Blake D]

mine idles about 21 to 22 inhg 16 would def be a vac leak. and if your running over 14 afr at wot then your asking to throw a rod. wor afr should ideally be somewhere around 11.5 for most power and still be safe.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Ok update I took out the front o2 sensor on the mani and cleaned it and the connector put back in and now I'm getting 14:1 at idle and like 16-18:1 on wot so that explains the lean code I got, I left the car running and un plugged each injector 1 at a time and the engine died a little for each one so I know they are ok... so it's either the FPR solenoid or the fuel pump.. the only thing that's weird is the fuel pump is literally 3 months old.. a Walbro 255.. so maybe leaning more toward FPR solenoid?

Wait, so you unplugged the injectors and could tell they were working, and you still assume the pump and fpr are bad? The solenoid has definitely failed if you have a CEL but you can bypass the solenoid with the vac line and run it directly from the rail to the IM. I doubt it would change the way the car runs though. Cleaning the O2 won't do anything if the sensor itself has failed.