retard with boost...

paulmp3 said:
when is this comming out and what is the cost???


are you selling your f10??

In fact it will be the E6X. It's the newest of the E6 series. I will get he first ones this weekend. It will be released this friday.

It will do fully sequential injection, adjustable ignition timing, boost control, shift light etc,

It is a stand alone engine management system that will work along the stock computer.

If everything goes well I will have it mapped and ready by next week. I had the E6K almost installed but decided to wait for the new one.

Juan
 
HiBoost TS said:
In fact it will be the E6X. It's the newest of the E6 series. I will get he first ones this weekend. It will be released this friday.

It will do fully sequential injection, adjustable ignition timing, boost control, shift light etc,

It is a stand alone engine management system that will work along the stock computer.

If everything goes well I will have it mapped and ready by next week. I had the E6K almost installed but decided to wait for the new one.

Juan

Interesting....very...this is another option.
Will it be mapped with your current setup?
I think your maps will be good enough just need a few adjustments to run on our setups.
 
Ok, I turned back the retard last night, and oh man what a difference. I also turned up the knock sensitivity to compensate. No knock whatsoever last night even with the colder air. It just pulled, and pulled hard. I feel confident that I could have run mid to low 14's last night IF I had been at the track. (thumb) I had too much retard, dialed in.
 
That's great Linux. The way my buddy and I tuned his J&S was while he was NA. We went up a hill in 5th gear (low speeds) and floored it (very high load) and tuned the J&S until we saw no knock and retard. Once the turbo went on, the knock sensitivity was just right.. we only needed to touch the J&S if he ever wanted to up his boost.
 
Linux, which J&S piece do you have?
Oh and what kind of oil gasket did you mention the other day, I forgot?
 
It is a J&S 1/2 channel model. $495 + $75 for a Bosch knock sensor, since our stock sensor is not compatible (no ground). Then if you want a display, the display is extra.

I've got one of these on order with a knock retard display. Once I get that puppy, I'll be able to tell you all where the car knocks (rpm) and you can have a J&S programmed to pull timing at that rpm range (I'm having mine set to max out the timing retard at 4 to 4500 rpm. ..just a guess). It will ramp up to that setting and back down. Check out the link John posted. Most interesting.

This WILL solve timing issues! Once we "know" what it needs to be set for, we'll be way ahead of where we are now.
 
Can this be set in increments of .5 degrees?
Maybe it could be that settings of 2 degrees each is too much.
 
It is set for 0,2,4, and 6.
I think you are correct that they are a little high.
Maybe 0,1,2,4 would be better (1/2 might not be enough), but then again, if Linux isn't having any knock problems, it might do the trick.

Linux. . .you out there? What do you think.

Also, please note per the post by John, the retard ramps up and down, so at certain points it will be 1/2 degree and such. If set to 2 degrees, it will only pull 2 degrees when you are above 5 psi (per the Focus page instructions) AND between 3500 and 4000 rpm. At 5+ psi and 4500 rpm, it pulls only 1 degree, at 5000 rpm 0 degrees. Make sense?
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
Linux, which J&S piece do you have?
Oh and what kind of oil gasket did you mention the other day, I forgot?

Craig, here is the gasket. It is called the oil outlet gasket. Notice is is not rubber!!:
gasketsvariouspoint.jpg


On the J&S, I have the 2-channel Ultra Safeguard.
The 2nd one on the following page:

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/safeguard.html

Look at the instructions for the Miata for the 2-channel mode. Note that for the MP3 you will need a separate Bosch knock sensor mounted on the front of the block. John at J&S can hook you up.
 
My unit was set for the max for my unit....To pull 2 degrees per PSI of boost. At 8 PSI, I was pulling 16 degrees. I turned it down to probably like 1.4 or 1.5 degrees per PSI... Yes, I think it can be set for .5 degree increments via the knob.
 
Im very sure, 2 degrees of retard is too much on low rpms. What I would do, if the car runs fine with the stock ecu, I would set it to start retard on knock detection or a few hundreds before knock starts and more retard on redline....(to protect the engine when missing gears or clutch slip or wheel spin).

Not to go 2 degrees every 1k rpm. because you will loose a lot of power. timing will be too far and some of the most important phase on the explosion stroke will be lost on the exhaust stroke.

I dont know (dunno) i might be just a retard, taking about retard with retards...
:D

this is just me thinking ;)
 
Yes, you can move the point were boost retard starts up and down. I think I have mine set to start at like 3 PSI.
 
LinuxRacr said:
Yes, you can move the point were boost retard starts up and down. I think I have mine set to start at like 3 PSI.

Go and dyno it...
I think you guys are simply guessing and puting numbers there. I would use the presets for POWER TUNING only, not to prevent detonation. Then use the knock detection...to retart more timing and protect the car.

Looks like a piggyback that only works ignition timing, I think its great tuned well...
 
Igrasil, I think you got it...It has no control over fuel. BTW...The intsructions tell you how to measure the onset of boost retard with a voltmeter when you are seting it up. Yeah, that was my mistake with the last engine. I never used the boost retard. I was just using the knock control.
 
LinuxRacr said:
Craig, here is the gasket. It is called the oil outlet gasket. Notice is is not rubber!!:
gasketsvariouspoint.jpg

Yes the oil outlet can be made out of cork. I have used it for quiet some time.

Hey Linux what is the compression on your new pistons. Still 9:5:1, or did your new pistons lower the compression?
 
My JE's are the stock 9.1:1 compression. Accually I think that gasket is some type of paper/fiber of some sort.
 
The J&S allows you to set a mid-range, something Linux doesn't have. Mine will now be set to select 0,1,2,3 degrees at max torque (when the engine detonates) and then return the timing at high rpms. If you pull timing based on rpm, you are correct, you'll lose a ton of power.

Likewise you can ALSO, IN ADDITION, pull timing based upon boost, you can control how much you pull per psi and when you start pulling it, so you can pull 0 degrees at up to 3 psi, which is not a problem, and then start pulling as you go higher.

Read up on it, this thing is killer for timing control.

Then on top of that is the knock retard for SAFETY. . .something we definitely could use. . .shiznit baby!
 
The picture for the gasket doesn't work, and any clue where I can get one?
 
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