It's EASY. Pull the tranny. Remove the MBSP. Remove bearing caps. Replace bearings. Make sure to apply assembly lube to bearing caps/crank and TORQUE to SPECS! Go to Toyota and get their chemical gasket- it's the best stuff on Earth. It's easy.So Im pulling the motor to replace the rod bearings Ive got the wiring harness unplugged and pulled aside and the plumbing dicconected, Im going to get my axels and shift linkage disconnected from the tranny maybe later today or tomorrow morning. anyone have any advise?
you do not have to remove the engine!thanks, ill pick some of that chemical gasket up after i get my bearings. This is my first engine pull ive had some people tell me its not to bad, just to take my time and try not to get ahead of myself. So far so good
you do not have to remove the engine!
I can replace rod bearings in an FS in 2 hours (on a lift). If you want to waste time pulling the engine, by all means it's your time and effort, not mine.well yeah but its a lot more straightforward with teh engine out. the problem u'd have is that to drop the upper oil pan(mbsp) u have to take out the 2 bolts that go into the rear main seal housing, hidden behind the flywheel, so tranny and flywheel have to come out, at which point u have teh engine hanging in the bay by 1 engine mount and (hopefully) a cross bar strapped into the head lift hooks.
just take the whole thing out, then separate the tranny, take the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel off, take the oil pan off, then MBSP, and voila! u see ur rod caps
P.S.: i'm worried about another thing, tho, why did u spin a bearing in the first place?
I can replace rod bearings in an FS in 2 hours (on a lift). If you want to waste time pulling the engine, by all means it's your time and effort, not mine.
I've replaced bearings twice in my MSP due to oil starvation at high rpm's (5000rpm+) through turns on the Dragon both times. The crankshaft and rods were fine, so I slapped bearings in and all is fine until another free-for-all day up there, but that won't be until winter because 129 in the spring/summer is insanely busy. An AWR oil pan is next on my list.
I add an extra 1/2 quart before going. Through a hairpin at 40mph, with the engine revving upwards of 6,000rpms, combined with the lateral G's I'm pulling... It obvisously doesn't matter.Wouldnt making sure your oil is upto the full mark before you go slinging the car around help prevent a spun bearing on those hard turns?
If you're doing the rings, you're going to have to take the block to a machine shop to do it right.im prob gonna do the rings and rod bearings timing belt and water pump, and all the gaskets, im sure the rods and pistons will be ok. i might try and drop the oil pan and see whats up before pulling i seen that some have access to those hidden bolts maybe ill get lucky.
I can replace rod bearings in an FS in 2 hours (on a lift). If you want to waste time pulling the engine, by all means it's your time and effort, not mine.
so i just got back from vacay and havent got much else done and was wondering if there is a gasket between the block and the mbsp/upper oil pan, i caint find one to buy anywhere.. so i was just wondering?or do i use like sealer? im planning to get the bulk of everything done thursday... hopefully all of it and get er back up and running.
