Rear Motor Mount Question...

[north42g]

I just bought replacement front and rear motor mounts for my PR5. I got them from Amazon of all places. They're Beck/Arnley Mounts. Usually their stuff is decent. we shall see. Got them both for about 60 bucks. Again, who Knew??
So I have read the plethora of threads on this topic. But I haven't read anything on Replacing the rear mount with-OUT removing the intake manifold. IS THERE A WAY? can I get there from under neath?
any thoughts on this. Or must I just accept the fact that the manifold has to come out?

 

[rit14623]

Well, if you open your hood, you can see the rear motor mount. Reaching it is difficult. Reaching it and trying to unbolt the three nuts is even more difficult.

If you jack up your car and go underneath, you can get better access to touch it. Still, getting a tool to it and unbolting the nuts is difficult.
I don't know if anyone has tried removing the motor mount bracket attached to the transmission, and then trying to unbolt the rear motor mount. I removed the motor mount bracket to install rear motor mount inserts.

 

[JaLMP5]

The problem with unbolting the bracket that hold the RMM to the engine/trans is that it won't help you remove it from the frame. I did it that way because my RMM was siezed when I removed my engine.

north42g: I know it seems difficult to remove the Intake manifold but trust me it's well worth it, if not then it'll be a huge pain in the ass.

 

[pcb]

This will be your problem,... That stud from the firewall has to be cut off to get a socket on the one nut. You would almost have to do that blind from underneath.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Engine-Mount-The-Current-Bane-of-My-Existence

 

[lostmybook]

^^ +1

And if you some how manage to cut that bolt from underneath the car, if you've never changed the motor mount before, those nuts will be on pretty tight. You will somehow need to get good leverage and a breaker bar to work will you're underneath... In my opinion, taking the intake manifold off isn't that bad. Especially if you've done it before. It will make the job magnitudes easier.

 

[616Nickel]

^^ +1

And if you some how manage to cut that bolt from underneath the car, if you've never changed the motor mount before, those nuts will be on pretty tight. You will somehow need to get good leverage and a breaker bar to work will you're underneath... In my opinion, taking the intake manifold off isn't that bad. Especially if you've done it before. It will make the job magnitudes easier.

Agreed. I followed the instructions on other threads, got the plastic cable bracket off and the stud out without huge problems, managed to remove two of the three nuts (each went with a loud BANG, making me think I'd broken a socket extension), but completely rounded the last nut, the top left in the above picture. There's a hydraulic junction box above it that prevents you from coming straight down on it with a socket, and everything I did just made it worse.

In the end I disconnected the bracket that connects the mount to the transmission, filled the mount with urethane, installed two new nuts on the good studs, and put the whole thing back together. But the rounded-off nut is still there, and the urethane job wasn't very effective, coming at it (as I was) at an uncomfortable angle from underneath the car. So eventually I'll have to tackle it, and that will mean removing the intake manifold. No idea how I'll get the stupid nut off, but at least I'll have room.

 

[RatLabGuy]

Bringing this back up, b/c I need advice!!

I have my transmission out (for gear replacement) and the motor mount is shot, so figured now is the time to do it. PO had put in poly inserts so at least the bolt has been out out.
Since the trans is missing, I jacked the motor up and tied it forward so there's at least some room to get in (removed the throttle body) from the D-side.

How the !@#$l do you get the lower 10mm nut off of the stud under the plastic wire loom cover?
I can just barely feel it under there w/ my fingers, underneath the plastic cover, but b/c of the shape of the motor mount I can't seem to get a socket in there from straight on, and there isn't enough space to both get my fingers in and get a socket in at the same time.
For those that did this - what kind/combo of socket did you use? Did you have to use a 1/4" w/ a really short extension maybe?

I've read lots of posts talking baout what a PITA this job is, but most seem to focus on getting to the larger bolts that hold the mount on, not this little 10mm nut. which makes me feel like I'm missing something.
There's not any way to know it out from the backside (inside the car) is there?

What I just can't wrap my head around is how they did this at the factory.

 

[hornsfan10609]

That nut is easy, just use a 10mm deep 1/4" socket. Definitely the easiest part of the job. And DON'T cut the stud I am shocked people are suggesting to do that it makes NO SENSE!!! Just bend the stud a little to one side to get room to put the socket on, and gently bend it back straight when you finish.

 

[Big Ds mp5]

Man im in the process of changing my rear mount and i rounded the head of the bolt that sits just under the lil stud in the firewall. I bent the stud out of the way but still limited space and now a rounded bolt. Any advice on how i can get this out?

 

[pcb]

Something like this maybe... If its deep enough...

 

[hornsfan10609]

In the original thread they suggested you SNAP the stud off altogether. (notcool) And then just seal it up with silicone. Worst case scenario you could always do that. But I would just work around it, that stud isn't very important.