It wasn't the caliper, it was the p-brake cable itself that was seized.
Here is my original post from another thread. I didn't want to insult anyone here who has 3000 posts or has to stand on their seat to see over their supercharger.
I'm new to the internet and it's my first post so bare with me. I too had the smoke in the wheel well problem and it turned out ot be the parking brake cable itself that was siezed. I could tell by looking at the position of the cable connection at the caliper and it didn't move when the brake p-brake was applied or released. There is a coil spring wrapped around the connection point at the caliper but it didn't have enough spring tension to pull the siezed cable back out of the sheath when the p-brake was released. I had great luck with poking the little extender tube from the can of liquid wrench into the rubber boot at the end of the cable (which is easier to do with the cable disconnected from the caliper and pointing up inside the wheel well to allow the fluid to drain down into the cable inside the sheath). Be carefull when poking the little tube in the boot so as to not rip the boot and let all kinds of water and crap get in and make things worse. I looked into replacing the cable but didn't have much luck with rock auto,.. they only had the front cable piece from the lever to the spliter underneath the heat shield and when I went to remove the heat shield the bolt was really tight then started to turn then just kept spinning. I think there's a weld nut on the other side that broke loose and just started to spin. I also jerry rigged an extra spring (from an old brake shoe mechanism) to the caliper and the pivoting cable connection point to add some extra tension to pull the cable back out of the sheath to back the pads off the rotor, work the liquid wrench into the cable and allow the self adjuster to operate properly. I've also had to grease my sliders every year,.. they get all sticky in no time.
