So far, our little P5 has been a great car.. I could wish for a few more MPG's, but 22.5-23 in the city isn't too bad. What I'm having a problem with now is this random stumbling of the car. The first time it did it my wife was driving and came home with the check engine light on with one code only, a P0300 random misfire. The second time it did it, I had my foot off the gas going down a hill around 55 and the car did the same thing where it started to shudder and lose RPM's which again brought up the PO300 code. The car straightened itself out as soon as I put some gas into it and hasn't done it since until today. We came up to a light and were idling when the car suddenly started to shake, RPM's dropped to 200 and the car died. Started it once and it immediately died again. Started it again after 5 or 6 turns and fired right up and has run fine since. WTF is going on with the motor?? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks guys!
Random Stumble and Car Dies at Light Unexpectedly
- Thread starter Red Demon
- Start date
CheeseHelmet
Member
Check the rubber air intake tube (between the MAF and the throttle body), if it's badly torn the car will stall like you describe.
If that's not it I'd change the coilpacks.
If that's not it I'd change the coilpacks.
CheeseHelmet
Member
The detection criteria in the service manual for the P0300 and P030{1,2,3,4} DTCs are exactly the same so it's hard to tell what to expect.
The interesting bit is that for P0300, "ignition coil malfunction" is the the third possible cause on the list (after CKP and CMP sensor malfunction, don't worry about those
) and for P030{1,2,3,4} it isn't even mentioned.
So check out the air intake tube (remove it, give a good look-over) and if it's in good condition replace the coil packs. This could also be EGR related but you didn't say anything about a rough idle so I didn't mention it...
The interesting bit is that for P0300, "ignition coil malfunction" is the the third possible cause on the list (after CKP and CMP sensor malfunction, don't worry about those
) and for P030{1,2,3,4} it isn't even mentioned.So check out the air intake tube (remove it, give a good look-over) and if it's in good condition replace the coil packs. This could also be EGR related but you didn't say anything about a rough idle so I didn't mention it...
Yeah 98% of the time the car idles just fine. Seems to lug just a little when the AC compressor kicks on, but not to the point of idling poorly. The air intake tube I can only assume is the main 3" or so line correct? I admit, I've owned a lot of cars and have never seen one that was badly torn. Is this a problem with the FS motor? I'll for sure check it out. The other thing is I removed the PCV valve after reading about another guy here with something similar and cleaned it up good with some brakekleen. Is it normal for the PCV valve to move up and down freely on the inside? If you shake the thing, you can hear the valve clicking back and forth.
It may just be time to change the coil packs anyway. The car turned over 121000 miles on the originals, so I'm sure they're approaching the end of their usable life.
It may just be time to change the coil packs anyway. The car turned over 121000 miles on the originals, so I'm sure they're approaching the end of their usable life.
CheeseHelmet
Member
A lot of people on this site have had a cracked air intake tube (it's easy to spot, it's got an accordion section in the middle). The rubber dries out and when the motor moves around it cracks, luckily it's easy to inspect and replace.
The clicking sound you hear when you shake the PCV valve means that it's working! An easy way to test the valve is to blow it (heh), one way air will pass, the other way it won't. To be safe, next time you're near a parts shop pick up a new one (they're < $5).
Coilpacks are cheap and if you have bad ones for too long you'll ruin your pre-cat so they're also worth changing as a preventative measure.
The clicking sound you hear when you shake the PCV valve means that it's working! An easy way to test the valve is to blow it (heh), one way air will pass, the other way it won't. To be safe, next time you're near a parts shop pick up a new one (they're < $5).
Coilpacks are cheap and if you have bad ones for too long you'll ruin your pre-cat so they're also worth changing as a preventative measure.
justanothermp5
Banned
- :
- Rust Bucket
If the PCV valve moves freely, its working like its supposed to. I had stock coil packs up to 215K miles without issues, just replaced them as preventative maintenence.
And yes, if you have a random missfire, its most likely the intake tube, the part that looks like an accordian. Its a very common thing with these motors since its plastic and gets brittle after all the heat cycles.
And yes, if you have a random missfire, its most likely the intake tube, the part that looks like an accordian. Its a very common thing with these motors since its plastic and gets brittle after all the heat cycles.
I'll check it out for sure then. I'm thinking of pulling the entire intake off to see about those little screws on the VICS (or is it the VTCS) and I figured I could give everything a good clean at the same time, including the EGR valve. You guys think this is a good idea? I was looking, but couldn't find the site where you could check your VIN against the TSB for those screws
Intermittent stalling upon idling after engine operation at high rpm: that's the classic symptom of a sticky EGR. Cleaning the EGR is hit-or-miss, you're best off replacing it. If you want to replace it yourself, the best price I've seen is at rockauto.com for $120 or so for the revised USDM EGR (it comes with a new gasket). Instructions can be found on this site. It's a 60 minute job, if you haven't done it before and have the right tools. You can upgrade to the Canadian EGR, but that might not be worth the additional frustration of installing it.
I'd replace the air intake hose, too, since you have to take it off. Also about $30 from rockauto.com.
I'd replace the air intake hose, too, since you have to take it off. Also about $30 from rockauto.com.
- :
- 2010 Mazda5 GT
I recently had to change out the intake tube on my wife's Protege - (pics and replacement parts link included):
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...rim-too-lean&p=5620427&viewfull=1#post5620427
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...rim-too-lean&p=5620427&viewfull=1#post5620427
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
YES...mine did, and replaced the coil packs....all good!!
Thanks everyone for all the quick responses! I know I don't hang around here a whole lot, but that might change a little now. Sold my Magnum, so I'm down to my truck and my wife's P5. Getting it ready for a little trip to Canada and I want to make sure it's squared away.
One more question: I've been searching for a while now for the largest oil filter I can put on the P5 and the only 2 I've found so far are for the Integra GS-R and the 626 filter. I remember when i first joined reading something about using the oil filter for a Nissan GT-R. Which one should I use? I like the idea of using more oil in the motor and I know how super-tiny the stock filter is. I do the same thing on my diesel truck. The old 7.3's use a filter that holds about half a quart, but you can run a PSD filter which holds an entire extra quart and filters down to I believe 10 microns so I can run a full 11 quarts of oil now. More oil is better in my books.
Sorry for bringing up a 2 month old thread but, I feel the need to ask, since I had similar problems.
I had problems almost identical to the OP's. Found out the Cat was bad and replaced it, but the problem persisted. Then we noticed the intake tube discussed earlier in here appeared to have a run in with the chainsaw, and replaced that as wel. Unfortunately, the problem is still there and according to my mechanic, after a compression test, cylinder four is "running at 20% less than the others." What do I need to do? Help, I really need the car back...
I had problems almost identical to the OP's. Found out the Cat was bad and replaced it, but the problem persisted. Then we noticed the intake tube discussed earlier in here appeared to have a run in with the chainsaw, and replaced that as wel. Unfortunately, the problem is still there and according to my mechanic, after a compression test, cylinder four is "running at 20% less than the others." What do I need to do? Help, I really need the car back...
Spark plugs were changed as well, sorry forgot about that.
