I also think the stock speaker housing would give the speaker more bass. Maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to cut out the stock speaker and use a bracket to put a speaker in that housing. I just think you would lose some of the bass integrity by eliminating that housing. You could probably connect it in a way to use the stock connector too. Just thinking....
Radio / Speakers on CX-5 SPORT model
- Thread starter hollis
- Start date
I am thinking of trying to put some Alpine SPS-410 in the dash. Their not too far from the Polks db351 in dimensions:
Alpine SPS-410
Top-mount Depth (Inches) 1 11/16
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 3 11/16
Polks db351
Top-mount Depth (Inches) 1 9/16
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 3 1/16
So depth is only 0.1250 inches more and diameter is only 0.6250 inches more. That probably means doing some cutting to fit the diameter, but its only plastic and seems there is enough spacing for it if you notice the empty space above the installed db351 in the below pic.
Alpine SPS-410
Top-mount Depth (Inches) 1 11/16
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 3 11/16
Polks db351
Top-mount Depth (Inches) 1 9/16
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 3 1/16
So depth is only 0.1250 inches more and diameter is only 0.6250 inches more. That probably means doing some cutting to fit the diameter, but its only plastic and seems there is enough spacing for it if you notice the empty space above the installed db351 in the below pic.
thanks all for the info in here.
put two 3.5" spks up in the dash - really makes a nice difference in sound quality as it should
no issues with the install - 20mins to make the cables - 20mins to mount
other have mentioned:
not a lot of spare spkr cable to work with.
removing the connector, i spliced in an extension with spkr connectors to be afforded a little more room to work.
put two 3.5" spks up in the dash - really makes a nice difference in sound quality as it should
no issues with the install - 20mins to make the cables - 20mins to mount
other have mentioned:
not a lot of spare spkr cable to work with.
removing the connector, i spliced in an extension with spkr connectors to be afforded a little more room to work.
Which speakers did you install and did you use bass blockers? My polks came with them but I didnt install them but am thinking about going back and putting them in. Getting a little rattle up there.
I installed them in the doors by cutting out the old speakers. I used regular cutters to snip the plastic supports behind the speaker in the housing. The material is very brittle. I used the self tapping screws. There was just enough room to screw them into the plastic. I did not use pilot holes as the plastic was very soft. For fitment, they barely fit / did not fit nice. I would go with the slim model for the fronts if anyone copies me. The tweeter sticks out too far and actually pushes out the door grill a bit, but the door stays in place and there is no rattling. As for sound, its very very good. The fronts have way more bass than the rears and I think its due to the fronts sticking out further and having more room behind the speakers for air movement.
Any rate I'm done. 4 polk db651's and 2 polk db351's in my cx5.
This is just placed in the bracket. I screwed them down and ran the wires out the top where the white plug was.
Installed in the door
Any rate I'm done. 4 polk db651's and 2 polk db351's in my cx5.
This is just placed in the bracket. I screwed them down and ran the wires out the top where the white plug was.
Installed in the door
Looking for some suggestions.....
I dont like the stock setup at all... I think the radio is fine since I can use the aux input and steering controls. Typically I only listen to streaming music on my phone into the aux input of the radio.
My phone is used for GPS nav, bluetooth, using radio as speaker phone works awesome, etc so I dont need much from the radio besides powering the speakers.
Ideas for upgrade:
Option 1)
-Alpine 6.5" speakers in front/rear. either (610) Type S ($60pr) or (SPR-60) Type R ($100pr). both are 88db and only needs 2 watt RMS to be powered so stock radio should be able to push them
-Polk db351 3.5" for the dash ($50pr), alpine hasnt made a 3.5" in years so I cant tell if these are match with either of alpines. I can put in a pr of 4" alpine but would require quite a bit of cutting and modifying (3-4hrs of work). the polks are 91db and need 4watt RMS. might be okay as they more efficient but require more power to drive them, fairly close to the alpines but no idea how to verify without installing them. there are no separate controls to adjust the volumes.
-if sufficient then leave as is. if not, hookup rockford 360.6 amp (4 x 30watts RMS per channel) and bridge for (1 x 100watts RMS) for a 8" solobaric custom kicker box (amazing low end). already have amp and sub
Cost: $200 - $300
Option 2)
-Go with polks all around db351 in dash and db651 ($60) in doors. there 91db and 4+ watts RMS. I think the stock radio may run it, but probably will have a hard to producing low bass
-if sufficient then leave as is. if not, hookup rockford 360.6 amp (4 x 30watts RMS per channel) and bridge for (1 x 100watts RMS) for a 8" solobaric custom kicker box (amazing low end). already have amp and sub
Cost: $200
Option 3)
- go for an upgraded radio that supposedly does 4x22 RMS (seriously doubt this but its certified) Pioneer head end radio that would provide more power then stock radio to the point the amp/sub might not be needed. + $50 steering controls adapter. Just half din size. dont need HD radio, Bluetooth, GPS, DVD screen, etc. My phone can do all that for me now.
Cost: Option 1 or 2 Plus $250
Option 4) 2007cx9 suggestion is pretty interesting. Instead of putting in 3.5" or 4" in the dash and 6.5" co-axial speaks in front doors, put in 2 way components- the 6.5" mid bass in door and 1" tweeter in the dash (use 3.5 to 1 inch adapter). This is actually how the speakers are setup in touring model to my understanding. these require 8+ watts RMS, so amp is a must. I am wondering if there is a max distance the 6.5" mid bass woofer and 1" tweeter can be before the sound stage is affected. typically they can only be about 12-18" inches apart, in this case they would be ~36". Alpine SPR-60C $167 shipped , actually cheaper then other way
-alpine srp-60 in rear $100
- add amp and sub
Cost: $267
I really thought the alpine were much better then the polk DX line, but wasnt able to compare them to the db line. I am going to avoid pioneer, kenwood, and sony brands. Would consider Kicker, JL audio, Infinity, other higher ends brands but very difficult to compare them between stores etc.
any advice?
I dont like the stock setup at all... I think the radio is fine since I can use the aux input and steering controls. Typically I only listen to streaming music on my phone into the aux input of the radio.
My phone is used for GPS nav, bluetooth, using radio as speaker phone works awesome, etc so I dont need much from the radio besides powering the speakers.
Ideas for upgrade:
Option 1)
-Alpine 6.5" speakers in front/rear. either (610) Type S ($60pr) or (SPR-60) Type R ($100pr). both are 88db and only needs 2 watt RMS to be powered so stock radio should be able to push them
-Polk db351 3.5" for the dash ($50pr), alpine hasnt made a 3.5" in years so I cant tell if these are match with either of alpines. I can put in a pr of 4" alpine but would require quite a bit of cutting and modifying (3-4hrs of work). the polks are 91db and need 4watt RMS. might be okay as they more efficient but require more power to drive them, fairly close to the alpines but no idea how to verify without installing them. there are no separate controls to adjust the volumes.
-if sufficient then leave as is. if not, hookup rockford 360.6 amp (4 x 30watts RMS per channel) and bridge for (1 x 100watts RMS) for a 8" solobaric custom kicker box (amazing low end). already have amp and sub
Cost: $200 - $300
Option 2)
-Go with polks all around db351 in dash and db651 ($60) in doors. there 91db and 4+ watts RMS. I think the stock radio may run it, but probably will have a hard to producing low bass
-if sufficient then leave as is. if not, hookup rockford 360.6 amp (4 x 30watts RMS per channel) and bridge for (1 x 100watts RMS) for a 8" solobaric custom kicker box (amazing low end). already have amp and sub
Cost: $200
Option 3)
- go for an upgraded radio that supposedly does 4x22 RMS (seriously doubt this but its certified) Pioneer head end radio that would provide more power then stock radio to the point the amp/sub might not be needed. + $50 steering controls adapter. Just half din size. dont need HD radio, Bluetooth, GPS, DVD screen, etc. My phone can do all that for me now.
Cost: Option 1 or 2 Plus $250
Option 4) 2007cx9 suggestion is pretty interesting. Instead of putting in 3.5" or 4" in the dash and 6.5" co-axial speaks in front doors, put in 2 way components- the 6.5" mid bass in door and 1" tweeter in the dash (use 3.5 to 1 inch adapter). This is actually how the speakers are setup in touring model to my understanding. these require 8+ watts RMS, so amp is a must. I am wondering if there is a max distance the 6.5" mid bass woofer and 1" tweeter can be before the sound stage is affected. typically they can only be about 12-18" inches apart, in this case they would be ~36". Alpine SPR-60C $167 shipped , actually cheaper then other way
-alpine srp-60 in rear $100
- add amp and sub
Cost: $267
I really thought the alpine were much better then the polk DX line, but wasnt able to compare them to the db line. I am going to avoid pioneer, kenwood, and sony brands. Would consider Kicker, JL audio, Infinity, other higher ends brands but very difficult to compare them between stores etc.
any advice?
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centralpa cx5
Member
- :
- Mazda CX-5 Sport
Components provide the best imaging IMHO. I am running Focals with a 2 channel amp. Made a world of difference (the amp fits under the seat).
centralpa cx5, what did you use for "remote amp" input to the amp? from radio harness schematic posted, it shows it does it but cant verify its active / working without removing the radio.
Also, which method did you use to get low level RCA inputs into the amp? (assume high level speaker to low level RCA converter)
nizzy1115, thanks. I think I will try another best buy to see if setups make a difference. Also is give more time to compare the 2 way components.
Also, which method did you use to get low level RCA inputs into the amp? (assume high level speaker to low level RCA converter)
nizzy1115, thanks. I think I will try another best buy to see if setups make a difference. Also is give more time to compare the 2 way components.
centralpa cx5
Member
- :
- Mazda CX-5 Sport
I used a JL XD200 which accepts speaker level input. JL makes an adapter to convert speaker wire to RCAs or you can hack up a pair of cheap RCAs and DIY. For the turn on I used a PAC TR4 (simple to install, 12V/Ground/+ Speaker lead/trigger wire to amp). Some people get noise with these, but so far so good. A shop fabricated an adapter ring for the doors (they used PVC). I pulled the passenger side door panel and provided the stock speaker for a template. You can use the dummy plate in the dash locations to install the tweeters, just need to grind down some of the plastic to make a flat surface (dremel made it easy).
Wow that sounds like a PITA! Makes me glad I stuck with coax - which sound pretty good for what they are.
centralpa cx5,
PAC module might not be necessary.
If you look at the radio pin out, "J" is designed for remote amp turn-on. Just cant verify its active on the base radio. The radio wiring schematic pdf posted has a "*" for the pin out. so might not exist for this radio. Worth taking a volt meter to try it out.
View attachment MazdaRadioPinOut.pdf
PAC module might not be necessary.
If you look at the radio pin out, "J" is designed for remote amp turn-on. Just cant verify its active on the base radio. The radio wiring schematic pdf posted has a "*" for the pin out. so might not exist for this radio. Worth taking a volt meter to try it out.
View attachment MazdaRadioPinOut.pdf
CraM,
So you just added the C2-350 3.5" JL audio speakers to stock system? with or without an amp ? any depth or other install issues faced?
I had a chance today to go to a pro audio shop and listen to the following: Alpine 6.5" Type S and Type R, all Focal lines, and C2/C3/C5 JL audio lines. The top $2K focals sounded very nice, but the C3-650 2 way components from JL audio were 95% close and 1/10 the cost. I think I am set on JL audio speakers.
Next is the choice between these options using JL Audio speakers and current RF amp / Kicker sub:
1) put C2-350 ($65) 3.5" co-axial speakers in the dash, C2-650x ($120x2) in the front and rear doors = Total $305
2) put C2-650x ($140) 6.5" components (mid bass in front door and tweeter in the dash) and C2-650x ($120) in the rear doors = $260
The salesperson suggested going with option (2) but did agree that mfg suggest to keep components within 12-18", so the staging will be a tad off with my setup.
Mazda uses a 3.5" speaker in the current setup that plays both mid-range and tweeter frequencies.
My opinion is to go with 3.5" co-axial speakers in the dash, it should be drastically better staging as I will be hearing vocals coming from in-front on me and not from my sides/knees. I am sure the 2 way components can reproduce better quality, but I bet it very marginal to the co-axials in their same line of speakers. In fact, just compared the specs and their exactly the same for either 2 ways or co-axials. Their made out of the same materials as well.
Peak Power Handling 100 watts
RMS Power Handling 60 watts
Sensitivity 91 dB
Frequency Response 59 - 22000 Hz
I think the rockford fosgate amp wont have any issues driving these mids, even with the impedance being 2 ohms (4+4 per speaker run in parallel). The amp does 60x2 rms @ 2ohms. Unless I am missing something, going to with option 2.
So you just added the C2-350 3.5" JL audio speakers to stock system? with or without an amp ? any depth or other install issues faced?
I had a chance today to go to a pro audio shop and listen to the following: Alpine 6.5" Type S and Type R, all Focal lines, and C2/C3/C5 JL audio lines. The top $2K focals sounded very nice, but the C3-650 2 way components from JL audio were 95% close and 1/10 the cost. I think I am set on JL audio speakers.
Next is the choice between these options using JL Audio speakers and current RF amp / Kicker sub:
1) put C2-350 ($65) 3.5" co-axial speakers in the dash, C2-650x ($120x2) in the front and rear doors = Total $305
2) put C2-650x ($140) 6.5" components (mid bass in front door and tweeter in the dash) and C2-650x ($120) in the rear doors = $260
The salesperson suggested going with option (2) but did agree that mfg suggest to keep components within 12-18", so the staging will be a tad off with my setup.
Mazda uses a 3.5" speaker in the current setup that plays both mid-range and tweeter frequencies.
My opinion is to go with 3.5" co-axial speakers in the dash, it should be drastically better staging as I will be hearing vocals coming from in-front on me and not from my sides/knees. I am sure the 2 way components can reproduce better quality, but I bet it very marginal to the co-axials in their same line of speakers. In fact, just compared the specs and their exactly the same for either 2 ways or co-axials. Their made out of the same materials as well.
Peak Power Handling 100 watts
RMS Power Handling 60 watts
Sensitivity 91 dB
Frequency Response 59 - 22000 Hz
I think the rockford fosgate amp wont have any issues driving these mids, even with the impedance being 2 ohms (4+4 per speaker run in parallel). The amp does 60x2 rms @ 2ohms. Unless I am missing something, going to with option 2.
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I had the new Kicker Hideaway™ Compact Powered Subwoofer installed under the passenger seat and fits beautiful. Very powerful and no amp needed. I stayed with factory speakers for now, but will upgrade later. Think my new head unit Pioneer AVH-P8400BH
In-Dash 7" Touchscreen DVD/USB/MP3 Car Stereo Receiver with HD Radio, Bluetooth and iPod Control will be enough to power better speakers.
In-Dash 7" Touchscreen DVD/USB/MP3 Car Stereo Receiver with HD Radio, Bluetooth and iPod Control will be enough to power better speakers.
