Question regarding 2016 Bose amp pin out

72Dime

Member
:
2016 CX-5 GT, Tech, Iactive, Meteor Grey
I have a 2016 GT with Bose, and looking for some help or advice on the Bose amp pin out. I have the Audio Control LC2i and it needs power/ground/remote as well as the speaker wire inputs. My idea is to run the LC2i under the passenger seat and run the other amp under the drivers seat to power the sub. I have a JL 10TW3 on order and will have a custom fiberglassed box made for the rear cargo pocket. I will need to run a remote wire and RCAs from the passenger side to the drivers side amp.

My question is this: has anyone used the wires from the bose amp to feed a remote wire? I am thinking there has to also be power there as well?
those that are running hilo converters, where are you getting the speaker leads from? front sub wires or rear door speakers? what about the remote wire?

I have saved all the bose amp wiring diagrams i can find, but am not really sure how to read it.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Matt
 
Look in my "2016 Audio upgrade thread" for 2016-specific wiring diagrams. There you will find the pin outs for the amp under the passenger seat. I tapped into the left and right rear door speaker signals that are coming from the headunit so they are not amplified yet. The rear door speakers are supposed to be full range so it's a good signal to tap. I ran my turn on wire from the interior fuse box located in the driver footwell area near the door jamb, using fuse #11 spot (if I remember right) with a 15-amp fuse. This fuse spot turns on with ignition. I ran the power wire along with my turn on wire all the way back under the door foot panels. Good luck!
 
Thanks Ryan, I saved all those diagrams but kinda confused on how to read them. I am trying to see if there is a power/remote wire that turns the Bose amp on that I can tap into.
 
I had looked for the same thing but never found it, sorry can't help with that. Figured the next best solution is to run it from the fuse box since the aftermarket amp wiring passes through the firewall in the same location, driver footwell, so it's just as easy to run two wires at the same time as it is to run one. Also I am not running a dedicated hi/lol converter because my JBL MS-A5001 has one built in, possibly your amp does also? What amp are you using and what are your target power specs?
 
I did some more researching on the LC2i, and it does not need an remote wire. Change of plans, going to use the power and ground from the aftermarket amp and just run speaker wire leads from bose amp on passenger side to LC2i location under drivers seat.
 
I had looked for the same thing but never found it, sorry can't help with that. Figured the next best solution is to run it from the fuse box since the aftermarket amp wiring passes through the firewall in the same location, driver footwell, so it's just as easy to run two wires at the same time as it is to run one. Also I am not running a dedicated hi/lol converter because my JBL MS-A5001 has one built in, possibly your amp does also? What amp are you using and what are your target power specs?

Running a Alpine MRPF-500 to a JL 10TW3. it doesn't have speaker inputs. The JL is 400 RMS i believe and the Alpine should produce that. the speaker is a dual voice coil 4 ohm, so ill bridge it down to 2 ohm. I have that amp running a 12' right now that I took out of my old car.

Where did you locate the amp?
Still using that kicker sub?
 
Your alpine amp should make 500W rms at 2ohm so sounds like you got it figured out. Just don't over amp and turn the gain down since your sub is 400w rms.

Naw that kicker hideaway sucked, returned it. I am going to buy an Image Dynamics IDQ10 D4 V4 and put it in a sealed box in the rear cargo area. Haven't got the amp yet in the mail but will probably put it under the front passenger seat... Depends on how long the power cable run is.
 
Back