im doing the install on my own system. im running two 10'' kicker subs with an 800watt amp and was wondering if the gauge difference and all that really matters because ive heard that it doesnt really make a difference in the performance of the subs. something about the power loss being extremely minimal in the differences of gauges of wires? i dont really feel like shelling out 80 bucks for a wiring kit when a 35 dollar one will do. is this statement true?
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question for all you audiophiles
- Thread starter Bret2002
- Start date
speedracer
Member
- :
- '03.5 MSP
what wires are ya talking about? the speaker wire or the power and ground?
just in case: small ground = amp cutting out and not working
small power = melting the wire if you play it too long too loud
small speaker wire = same as the power wire.
just in case: small ground = amp cutting out and not working
small power = melting the wire if you play it too long too loud
small speaker wire = same as the power wire.
im refering to the power and grounding wires. i was thinking about these ( numbered links on the bottom) but just dont know that much about the subject any help is appreciated. i have been trying to research on caraudio.com but alot of that is over my head.
1. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA10/EFX-10-gauge-Amplifier-Wiring-Kit.html?search=wiring+kits
2. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA8/EFX-8-gauge-Amplifier-Wiring-Kit.html?search=wiring+kits
the subs are already wired to the amp, the amp just needs power
1. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA10/EFX-10-gauge-Amplifier-Wiring-Kit.html?search=wiring+kits
2. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA8/EFX-8-gauge-Amplifier-Wiring-Kit.html?search=wiring+kits
the subs are already wired to the amp, the amp just needs power
yeah i understand the whole you get what you pay for addage but if there is no problem running a smaller gauge then why not? is there really that huge of a difference in the surrent from 8 gauge and 10 gauge? or are they both to small. specifics would help. im in college trying to save me some money
also this is just for a very basic setup and will not be using the subs very heavily. just on those occasions when i feel like listening and bumping some rap. not a huge bass guy, just i had to good of a deal to pass up
also this is just for a very basic setup and will not be using the subs very heavily. just on those occasions when i feel like listening and bumping some rap. not a huge bass guy, just i had to good of a deal to pass up
Last edited:
I don't remember how to calculate the limits of copper vs electricity, but if it were me I'd err on the side of caution...
Try some of these other online retailers to shop for prices...
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4682333#post4682333
Try some of these other online retailers to shop for prices...
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4682333#post4682333
BoostedPR5
Member
Google brought up this on the first result.
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Don't go too small, you'll fry a wire maybe short it and could start a fire worst case scenario.
Regardless, it'll probably cause you more problems then it's worth to save a buck.
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Don't go too small, you'll fry a wire maybe short it and could start a fire worst case scenario.
Regardless, it'll probably cause you more problems then it's worth to save a buck.
speedracer
Member
- :
- '03.5 MSP
4 is good but 8 will work.
speedracer
Member
- :
- '03.5 MSP
800 watts? i wouldn't go smaller than 4GA,
on my car i had a 4GA to a distribution block then 8GA to my amps (360W RMS, 400W RMS, and a 200W RMS)
the watts rating is only as good as the brand of the amp. Not all are "true" ratings.
SocialStealth
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege ES, 120k miles
for 800 watts RMS I would go with 4g wire.
If its 800 watts peak, that number is meaningless and should be completely discarded. RMS watts is what matters.
the ability of the wire decreases as its length increases. I'm going to assume the amp is in the trunk and your battery is in the engine bay. So with the wire being the length of your car, I would defiantly recommend 4g wire. As 8g wire WILL blow fuses, not burn.
Having said that, MAKE SURE YOU USE A FUSE as close to the battery terminal as possible. This will prevent the wire from catching on fire in case there is a burst of electrical current for some reason. The rule of thumb is 6 inches from the battery terminal there should be a fuse.
Crutchfield is extremely over priced. However, they offer great customer service, which is good when buying things that you want to try out and arnt sure you want to keep. But you don't need this extra piece of mind for wire...
A better, as well as cheaper alternative is:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Power Wire
The flex kable is extremely flexible. If you plan on having to make any sharp turns in your wiring, I'd go with this @ $1.40
But the KLM is a bit cheaper and of the same quality. Its just not as flexible. @ $0.89 its well worth it.
If you do opt for the KLM, I would get a small amount of flex kable for the battery terminal -to- fuse line. As you might have trouble mounting the fuse holder. then run the rest of the 25 feet or so with klm. (fuse to amp).
And you can search around for people selling wire. 4g is pretty easy to find, and a lot of people sell it when they decide to upgrade and need 1/0g.
Use the same gauge wire for the ground as the power. NEVER go smaller!
If its 800 watts peak, that number is meaningless and should be completely discarded. RMS watts is what matters.
the ability of the wire decreases as its length increases. I'm going to assume the amp is in the trunk and your battery is in the engine bay. So with the wire being the length of your car, I would defiantly recommend 4g wire. As 8g wire WILL blow fuses, not burn.
Having said that, MAKE SURE YOU USE A FUSE as close to the battery terminal as possible. This will prevent the wire from catching on fire in case there is a burst of electrical current for some reason. The rule of thumb is 6 inches from the battery terminal there should be a fuse.
Crutchfield is extremely over priced. However, they offer great customer service, which is good when buying things that you want to try out and arnt sure you want to keep. But you don't need this extra piece of mind for wire...
A better, as well as cheaper alternative is:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Power Wire
The flex kable is extremely flexible. If you plan on having to make any sharp turns in your wiring, I'd go with this @ $1.40
But the KLM is a bit cheaper and of the same quality. Its just not as flexible. @ $0.89 its well worth it.
If you do opt for the KLM, I would get a small amount of flex kable for the battery terminal -to- fuse line. As you might have trouble mounting the fuse holder. then run the rest of the 25 feet or so with klm. (fuse to amp).
And you can search around for people selling wire. 4g is pretty easy to find, and a lot of people sell it when they decide to upgrade and need 1/0g.
Use the same gauge wire for the ground as the power. NEVER go smaller!
Google brought up this on the first result.
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Don't go too small, you'll fry a wire maybe short it and could start a fire worst case scenario.
Regardless, it'll probably cause you more problems then it's worth to save a buck.
Nice!
(google)
Rockin03mp5
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
knukoncepts is good.
i got my kicker 4 gauge dual amp wiring kit off of amazon for 45 bucks. (not like that any more)
gotta watch amazon though, ive heard them screw things up before.
i say bigger is better. (4 gauge is sooooooo much bigger than 8)
just put the proper fuse in, and all will be good. if you go big now, and decide to add more later, you wont have to upgrade the power wires again.
i got my kicker 4 gauge dual amp wiring kit off of amazon for 45 bucks. (not like that any more)
gotta watch amazon though, ive heard them screw things up before.
i say bigger is better. (4 gauge is sooooooo much bigger than 8)
just put the proper fuse in, and all will be good. if you go big now, and decide to add more later, you wont have to upgrade the power wires again.
SocialStealth
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege ES, 120k miles
yeah im going 4 gauge. i appreciate it as the electrical side of things is not my forte. i appreciate the quality information
If you want, I'm currently upgrading my system.
I have all the 4g wire you need as well as a fuse/fuse holder, etc. I got the knu 4g kit so you'll get everything that came with that. PM me if your interested
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