Protege High Mileage Club

2002 protege es in sand. so far it's at 259,000 miles on the odometer. used to be a daily driver since new, retired to spare car status about 5 years ago when we got a 2010 corolla which has 90k as of now. this car was used as a commuter car 160 miles roundtrip a day. and it's survived 2 crashes, one in the front, fixed up 5 years ago, and 2nd one was last year, on the side, but we never fixed it up since. it's gone through 3 timing belts, and a set of struts. the engine, transmission, hell, even the clutch is still original. but i think it's about to become my daily driver for school, which is around 15 miles roundtrip. still would be afraid to push this engine a bit hard, though it still works all the way up to 4000 rpm. one hell of a reliable car, i'll tell you, especially if its done it in decent comfort, like leather, sunroof, and cruise control.
 
Low high mileage club?

2001 LX 1.6 Automatic 171,044

have replaced water pump, struts, reluctor ring, a few random sensors, cat, 2 timing belts (playing it safe), plugs/wires/ignition coil at 150K, several batteries, and most recently the front right CV axel(?) joint thing.

Everything else original including: tranny fluid, original power steering fluid, original rotors, AC system coolant
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Car hasn't been washed in 10 years (my wife bought me the bumper sticker, but i did clean the inside last weekend and drove the family on a 3+ hour road trip and back). Plastic ring broke off the dipstick, the coolant reservoir cap is missing, as you can see the fan speed selector has been replaced by light switches, but it starts first try every time. I hope it keeps going for another 15 years. I drive it about 75-150 miles a week, so i only have to fill the car up every 2-4 weeks.

Needs: EGR valve, has needed it for about 5 years, but just passed inspection / emissions because it hasn't gotten cold outside yet (throws codes for EGR valve when it gets cold outside, why couldn't have they recalled this issue in the US, instead of just canada)

Oh, and if you'll notice, I added the adjustable intermittent wiper stalk from europe, my wife got me that for Christmas several years ago.
 
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Original trans fluid? I've changed my daughter's 2002'Protege fluid at least 3 times already in the last 8 years. (Her car has 120,000 miles on the odo.
 
2000 Protege LX 1.6L automatic with 261,300. Runs pretty well, although it burns (and leaks) oil and I'm afraid the control rings or valve seals are going bad/gone. Still, it passed emissions earlier this month. So I've got that going for me. Starts no problem, but had to have a new starter installed about two years ago when the old one crapped out.

It was getting pretty near death before I began taking care of it a few months ago. After a tune up and a few low-hanging-fruit repairs, it's definitely got some life left in it. I'm just not sure how much. I really want to make some improvements and mods but don't want to dump too much money in if the engine only has 12 months to live. I don't know, man. I just don't know.
 
I would pass on the mods for a car with that mileage.
 
03.5 MSP has 174k on it now, almost nothing is original in the drivetrain aside from the turbo, intake and exhaust manifolds, the PS pump and AC compressor.
 
Sorry guys.... My '03.5 decided to unexpectedly kick the bucket at 207k, on Christmas Eve.

Thankfully I work sales at a Mazda dealership, the VP and the GM had a mini-meeting about me, and I'm now the proud owner of an '07 Mazda6 Touring with 42k miles as my daily driver to the apex spitter.

I miss you guys a whole lot, I loved the shiiiiiiiit out of my 5spd clutch kicker P5, bit damn.... I'm so thankful for this M6. #mazdalyfeforlyfe
 
Congrats, Scrapman,
My brother-in-law sold Mazdas for many years and still has an 07 (I think) Mazda 6 with V6 and manual transmission. That thing has a lot of miles on it and is still silky smooth and solid as a rock.
 
I totaled my first '02 P5 with 250K, It was only burning about a quart of oil every 3000, had just replaced the clutch, though it didn't really need to be, and that was the only major thing that had been done to it, still drove and looked like new. I had it since it had 36K on it, about seven years. I bought an '03 with 120K, nothing had been done to it. I drove it for 3 1/2 years, put 75K on it, replaced nothing major, it was totaled with 195K, drove like new. I had just had the passenger front bearing replaced and put an AWR front motor mount and inserts in the sides and had it painted metallic matte black. My current Protege is an '02, POS from up north, with 167K. Had almost the whole rear end replaced, trailing arms, connecting rods, before my mechanic realized my problem was the front control arm. The gas tank has been replaced then the transmission went and has been replaced. It drives well, no problems and hopefully it will last until 250K. I only drive 5 speeds and I always change the oil every 3000. The only problem with the Protege's I've found is the tires don't last. I went up from 195/45/16 to 205/50/16 and if it wasn't for the offset of my Maxim wheels, I would have 205/55/16's.
 
Original owner of thus 2003 Protege5. Over 234,000 miles, still running strong, starts on the first attempt every time.
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its not letting me post in the main protege thread so i figured i could try here maybe??
before you read please understand i am no where close to a mechanic and i have very little knowledge about under the hood.. lol

okay so im going to start from the beginning. i have a 2001 mazda protege, 2.0 and my husband took it to work the other day and all of a sudden the battery light came on while he was driving it and when he got to work it must of overheated (he didnt look at the temp gage, im just assuming this) because it died and started making a crazy noise. the best way i can explain it is the sound of a potato being shot out of a PVC pipe.. it made this noise about 3-4 times and then all of our coolant drained out of the car... so he had his friend come look at it and suggested the thermostat being replaced... so we tow the car to the house and we put the thermostat on and then we realize the serpantine belt broke... also we have a huge hole in our coolant resivior. so we go buy the serpantine belt and the resivoir and put those on... after all that his friend realizes that the fan? isnt spinning which controls the water pump?? again i have no idea what im talking about really... lol.. so we go buy the water pump and replace it and the timing belt cover (because it was eating our belts up)... (i dont know if this is important or not but we couldnt get the crank bolt off when we were putting the water pump on so i googled how to do that and a video showed them using a breaker bar and turn the engine over a couple times and the bolt FINALLY came lose. ) anyways we get those put on and now the car has very little power when trying to get up and go. we can put the pedal to the floor and its barely inching along.. once it gets to a good speed (like above 40) it seems ok?? but as soon as we stop and idle it tries to die. so we took it to autozone and had them hook it up to our car and it throws these codes

P0171 adaptive fuel trim too lean (bank1)
p0102 MAF circuit low input
p0103 MAF sensor circuit high input
p0108 BARO sensor circuit high input
p1250 pressure regulator solenoid circuit malfunction

it said for us to replace the MAF sensor
so we spend yet another 223$ and had a friend put it on and started it up low and behold it DID ABSOLUTLY NOTHING. if anything it made the idling and speeding up problem WORSE.
we have spend over 600$ replacing parts on this car in the past 3 days and it still isnt running like it used to. i have no idea what to do or where to go from here... please if anyone has any advice its greatly appreciated
 
Try cleaning the old MAF with maf or brake cleaner spray, let it dry and reinstall it. Reset the ECU by unplugging the negative battery terminal for a few minutes and try to drive it. Check for damage to the wiring and connector to the MAF. If you have a mulitmeter you can check the MAF wires for continuity. The barometric/MAP sensor is on the passenger side of the engine bay behind the strut tower. It may need to be replaced or the vacuum lines running to it may be damaged. Check the vacuum lines before you replace the sensor. I would recommend grabbing these from a junkyard, much cheaper and they don't typically fail. The solenoid next to the MAP sensor may have failed, all the solenoids on the car can fail over time. You may also want to rent a compression tester to check the health of the engine and see if the head gasket is blown.
 
We already bought the new MAF sensor and installed it. What should we do now? We already unplugged the battery last night after we replaced the MAF sensor and it's still the same
 
Return the MAF if it didn't make a difference. Inspect the wires to the MAF and see if they are damaged. I posted a bunch of things to check...
 
The low power seems to me the timing may be off since they just did the belt and it had power prior to the overheating condition. That doesn't explain the MAF codes as this could be a result of coolant damage?!? My 02 protege hit 225 degrees on my scan gauge when the front froze closed during a sleet storm and my in car coolant temp gauge was dead center. So I imagine your car got HOT. The pressure regulator could be the root cause of the lean condition as well. I think you have a few issues, or a harness problem if these all came at once. Good luck and maybe check your timing again.


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