Protege 5 Oil Consumption

On my buddies 02 P5 it was the PCV valve making it smoke....

On mine the oil comsumption was the rear main seal. It NEVER was wet on the outside ofthe bellhousing. I found it when I cracked the trans case and had to pull the trans. Maybe a 1qt every 7-10k before the seal replacement.. Ever since then it uses maybe 1/4 qt per 10K oil change. The car has 265K....
 
Just to put it in this more relevant thread: I was burning oil, so I recently replaced the PCV valve and oil pressure switch, as I read that both could cause it to burn oil. Oddly, one of those evened out my uneven idle. I'm still only 1k miles after the oil change and new oil pressure switch, so I'll report back at my next change as to whether or not it's fixed.

Do you know which one? I still need to do my pressure switch one of these days.
 
I suspect the idle was the PCV valve, but really, they cost a total of $6. Just do both! BTW, I checked my oil today, and so far so good, none missing at 800 miles!
 
Sorry for bringing up a mostly dead thread, but I just found this on a search and was curious.

I have owned my P5 for several years, and since ~45k miles. Since I have had it, I have run synthetic oil in it with no issues, and a 5k change interval. Earlier this year, I went to check the oil, and it was down below L on the dip stick. I thought it was due to a leaky valve cover, since some of the bolts holding it down were finger tight (oops). But I checked it again this weekend, and I was down about 1.5 quarts in ~4500 miles. Im now at 93k, and while I know thats not awful, I really dont like that the oil is going this quickly already.

I dont see any blue smoke when I go looking for it, so I dont think its burning any. Unless its dripping somewhere off the back of the engine onto the exhaust pipe and burning there... My guess is that this is the oil pressure sensor that was mentioned before?
 
its freezing now and i never got a chance to check the oil pressure sensor. the one thing keeping me from doing it is finding the right socket to remove the OEM one. i can't seem to find it on google, and so far a forum search has come up with needing a 24mm deep socket. however, the hex on this sensor is not a standard hex, it has rounded corners. it will have to be a project when theres a warm winter day on the calendar
 
I can definitively say changing the PCV valve and oil pressure switch stopped the oil burning. I'm over 3k out from changing both, and I should be down a quart. I'm not down at all. I don't know which did it, because I did both together, but they're under $10 total, so just do 'em.

The oil pressure switch was a b**** to get off, cost me $10 in sockets. The PCV valve is literally a 30 sec job, so at least pick up the Millennium one and do that.

Whew. I'm so happy it's not gulping oil!
 
Can I ask why the Millenia PCV valve? I just ordered one for the Protege from OnlineMazdaParts, and there may be time to change it if there is good reason. (I ordered the sensor too, so I can do both....)
 
I can definitively say changing the PCV valve and oil pressure switch stopped the oil burning. I'm over 3k out from changing both, and I should be down a quart. I'm not down at all. I don't know which did it, because I did both together, but they're under $10 total, so just do 'em.

The oil pressure switch was a b**** to get off, cost me $10 in sockets. The PCV valve is literally a 30 sec job, so at least pick up the Millennium one and do that.

Whew. I'm so happy it's not gulping oil!
Was yours leaking on the back side of the motor for the pressure switch to be part of the cure? Not understanding how pressure switch could be cure for oil burning, leaking yes but burning? PCV would be burning oil since it is routed back into intake then motor.
 
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Millenia PCV for the Miller-Cycle (supercharged) engine. Higher spring rate to keep closed. Stock has no spring.
 
Millennium valve because that's what I was told to use here, lol. I don't know if the oil pressure switch had anything to do with it, because I changed both parts at the same time. And yes, I like the $2 30 second job, my kind of auto repair. :D
 
Was yours leaking on the back side of the motor for the pressure switch to be part of the cure? Not understanding how pressure switch could be cure for oil burning, leaking yes but burning? PCV would be burning oil since it is routed back into intake then motor.

My only thought would be that the oil would leak down the back of the block and land on the hot exhaust pipe and then burn. But you are right that the switch would cause a leak first, not for the oil to be burned in the engine.

Im not seeing any smoke anywhere, but the oil is magically leaving my engine. I bought a PCV, and the switch. Ill try and change both when they arrive, along with my oil, and see how it goes....
 
i know this is an old thread but in case anyone is still trying to figure this out. most common causes of burning oil other than rings is valve stem seals and pcv. easy test for stem seals is to go down a fairly long hill with car in a relatively low gear so its engine breaking a bit (make sure not overdrive for autos) and then at the bottom accelerate hard a bit while watching rearview mirror u should see some blue smoke. (white is not always coolant. cold motors produce alot on cold days) coolant will have a sweet smell. eye burning exhaust is bit normal. or slight possibility of cat malfunction (produces oxides of nitrogen and sulphur)
 
Since someone brought this up I figured I would have experience people try and figure it out. My car has the blueish whitish smoke on start up but only if you give it a lil gas, I noticed this one day trying to get it to warm up enough to check the oil. I played with it a few days later and if you rev it up it will miss badly like a plug or something is bad. It burns about a qt every 1000 miles would this be valve seals or piston rings. It only does it on coold starts after its sat for a few hours. I'm hoping its just the valve seals they're going to be replaced regardless when I have the head rebuilt ina couple months if it could be the piston rings id like to replace them while I have the head off it but I don't want to do it if I don't have to mainly cause I don't wana tear it down any further than I have to. Its got 133,500 miles on it btw
 
Since someone brought this up I figured I would have experience people try and figure it out. My car has the blueish whitish smoke on start up but only if you give it a lil gas, I noticed this one day trying to get it to warm up enough to check the oil. I played with it a few days later and if you rev it up it will miss badly like a plug or something is bad. It burns about a qt every 1000 miles would this be valve seals or piston rings. It only does it on coold starts after its sat for a few hours. I'm hoping its just the valve seals they're going to be replaced regardless when I have the head rebuilt ina couple months if it could be the piston rings id like to replace them while I have the head off it but I don't want to do it if I don't have to mainly cause I don't wana tear it down any further than I have to. Its got 133,500 miles on it btw

Valve seal's my friend I'm in the same boat till I install the new seals this spring..BTW- they will run ya $148 threw the dealership for oem one's .
 
Well good that's what I wanted to hear any idea what it will run to have a head reshimed and new seals? I havnt had time to call and ask anyone yet I'm probly just gona have the dealer do it.I'm not having them pull the head or anything I'm just gona take it in
 
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