Post your free mod ideas for the MS3

I read 10 pages and I just seen a lot of bs about intake trashing not to happy about that. You can make a intake set up for $40 at autozone if your going to do that. Thanks to the guy that put a real mod stiffening the shifter.
 
tddvrrn said:
this is less of a mod and more of problem prevention: use some type of strong wire mesh (like chicken wire with smaller holes) to create a grill for the sub port.

the sub sits under the passenger seat, and when i first got my speed3 a passenger lost some coins from his pocket that ended up in the sub. i had to remove the passenger seat and the sub to stop the horrendous rattling they created.
so to prevent this from happening again i cut out a piece of sturdy wire mesh about the size of the port and simply pushed it in an inch or so. since the sub box is plastic and the port decreases in size as it goes in, the mesh bit into the box as i let pressure off and it sprung back. it has not rattled a bit and no more small objects have taken up residence in my sub.
Click to expand...

Very good idea as it happened to me too and I thought the speaker was blown. Similar sound and only occurred when signal was being sent to the sub.
 
A great free mod is doing the labor yourself and not paying someone to do it. Nothing in life is free and if it was it wouldnt be worth the time. So put the time in and dont pay someone else to do the work. :)
 
What about removing the rear seat, what would I need to do for that? How much do the rear seats weigh? I wanted to do this mod for 2 reasons, extra room in the rear and the weight reduction.
 
If you want to do weight reduction, you either do all or nothing, because 5lbs here or there isn't going to do s*** on this car.

-Remove ALL seats
-Remove ALL carpet
-Remove ALL interior trim
-Remove ALL unnecessary seatbelts
-Remove sound deadening material
-Remove radio
-Remove door interior panels
-Remove rear window motors/regulators

If you're not gonna do at least half those things, get the "Free mods" thing outta your mind. Horsepower costs money. How fast do you wanna go?
 
Chim, we know HP costs money. I have spent quite a bit already. I like the idea of "free mods" because you are limited by your imagination instead of pocket book. Not all of our mods are for HP only.
 
imagination? What do you think this is, kindergarten?

Contrary to belief, your car is not powered by hopes and dreams. The seats are not made with children's tears and unicorn farts. The glass is not just clear sugar candy.
 
I dont understand why you are so butthurt about doing stuff to your car that does not cost any money. I know weight reductions do not give you more horsepower. What level of dumbass do you think I am. On a scale of 1-10. 10 being full retard. I gotta sit around at least a 4. Taking something away does not add more...derp!

So moving on, Im out of ideas for any more free mods, going to look into some other areas.
 
You aren't a dumbass. You just said something silly.

I actually agree with what you were saying. It isn't worth removing just one or two parts for the weight reduction unless you absolutely don't need them, anyway.
 
Yes I agree. Unless its 100lbs or more, it is not really worth it. I figured the rear seat would be around 40 lbs or so. But I have not weighed it so no idea. Supposedly the rule of thumb is every 100 lbs is a .1 of a second off your 1/4 time. Also could remove sparetire/jack (dont recommend unless you have roadside assistance) That should be close to 100lbs with the rear seat and rear window motors.

P.S. I will always say silly things, I will be the first to admit I have a lot to learn. But, I am willing to listen to you guys. I just hate getting flamed.
 
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rear seat bottom is pretty retardedly light. Like 5-10lbs max, if that. I think the rear seats top out at ~30lbs, maybe.
 
General rule of thumb is that in a 3000 lb car, (we are a couple hundred heavier), you knock off about .1 second in the quarter mile for every 100 lbs. reduction. Think of it the other way, too. Put a 200 lb buddy in the passenger seat in a street race from a dig and you'll be about .2 slower through the equivalent of a quarter mile. These are approximations based on weight to horsepower ratios. The heavier the car to start with, the more weight has to be removed to achieve any benefit.

Trying to get 100 lb weight reduction to drop your quarter mile about one tenth (also about one car length advantage) in the quarter at our weight, is going to be a task in a daily driver. Yeah, you ditch the donut tire and jack, pull out the rear seat and the passenger seat and some of the soundproofing (we ain't got much to begin with) and you'd probably get there -- all for .1 second. Unless you are building a dedicated race car.


Also reducing unsprung weight by using lighter rims, improves (sometimes dramatically) handling on a road course. At the drag strip lighter and smaller diameter rims (rubber is lighter than metal) and lighter rims together with narrower tires on the rear might help too in an all out drag car might help. But FWD cars are not a very wise platform for drag racing anyway.

But just pulling the back seat is not going to do much. Probably not measurable. The concept is valid, OP, but the rear seat ain't nearly enough to matter.
 
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