Overheating and Transmission Whine

C

Chad92

Member
Contributor
:
2003 MSP
Alright, so I just got done swapping engines into my MSP, and took it for a spin and it overheated in about five minutes. I got out and squeezed the hoses leading from the radiator to the block, and I did not feel any circulation or movement of liquid in the hoses. Im guessing that this is a faulty water pump correct?

Also, there is a whining noise coming from, what I guess to be, the transmission. I think it might be a worn pilot bearing? Ill post a video later. Also, when the car is running in neutral, it idles at ~15-1900 rpm (to high). But when I compress the clutch, it drops the idle down about 600 rpm. I did just do a clutch bleeding, but it was my first time so it might not be done correctly. Any suggestions?

Here is the video. Sorry for my inadequate ability to speak, late nights and early mornings make the production of a simple video harder than MJ at a South Hampton daycare center... yuck!

NEW VIDEO OF OVERHEATING

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/syM0MQHD01U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


NEW VIDEO OF TRANSMISSION WHINE
(Video was taken at 6:30 in the morning, so please forgive my use of the English language)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/SSIxh90WJyw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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may be a dumb question, but did you check your belts and make sure theyre all snug after the swap?
 
are your fans comming on? and you wont feel circulation of the coolant by merely grabbing a radiator hose. if your pump is working correctly the cooling system should build up a fair amount of pressure (16psi i believe) and you can feel the radiator hoses to see if its under pressure...
 
Yes. The belts are all under enough tension to operate the water pump. And the fans do turn on when the car starts to get hot. Also, when I squeeze the hose, there does not seem to be much pressure built up. I should have transfered the pump from ruined engine as it had a new water pump on it.
 
id recommend doing a cooling system pressure test.

you can get a tester at an auto parts store, they usually have kits to loan out too.

i guess all im trying to do is save you time, bc replacing the water pump if it isnt bad just wastes your time and money.

also when it gets hot is your thermostat operating correctly? when the car is up to temp feel the upper and lower hose they should BOTH be hot, if the lower hose isnt then the thermostat is junk.

also keep in mind that a bad radiator cap can cause the system to not build pressure, and if you have any coolant spilling around the cap thats an instant red flag. plus their really cheap to replace so dont overlook the small things.

in a rare case the radiator might be clogged internally or externally (debris in the cooling fins) and not let the radiator do its job.

also your high idle is most likely a vacuum leak (spray around with carb cleaner and listen for the engine idle to smooth out) or possibly a clogged/bad iac motor

your best bet is to fix that overheating issue then get back to me lol
 
Ok, thank you Dr0. The radiator does have a small crack right next to the cap. So does that mean I need to replace the radiator, or can I mend the crack? The upper hose does get warm/hot, but I can not remeber if the lower hose does. I have a damn-near new water pump from the blown block, just did not install it when I repalced the timing belt. But I will be sure to check those items when I have time to return to my families farm (car is 15 miles away, unfortunately). But thanks again!

Also, the car intercooler is very stock, so where would I find a replacement for the radiator as it seems to be a bit smaller than the N/A proteges... (detect). I do have a FMIC, but I rather keep the car as stockish as possible.
 
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i cant remember who has a replacement radiator but i know you can make it look BA and get a mishimoto lol, plus it will be better then stock. little pricey though =P
 
One question, can i just remove (delete) the thermostat and let coolant run consistantly?
 
that would be a bad idea. an engine is not like a computer, you cant just throw cool at it and expect everything to work properly. it has an optimum operating temp. if you run the coolant all the time the engine will take a long time to warm up if it ever does. this will reflect on the performance, drive-ability and gas mileage of the car.
 
I added a new video after I intsalled a NEW thermostat. Still overheating. Please let me know what yal think!
 
Toasty said:
that would be a bad idea. an engine is not like a computer, you cant just throw cool at it and expect everything to work properly. it has an optimum operating temp. if you run the coolant all the time the engine will take a long time to warm up if it ever does. this will reflect on the performance, drive-ability and gas mileage of the car.
Click to expand...

fail safes get stuck open when they go bad.. which they often do. The car will get upto operating temps even in the cold if let idle long enough. However if its cold outside it might actually cool back down and I had that issue when it was 35 degrees here in florida... Gas mileage I can't comment on as I didn't really notice a drop or increase but I did notice a improvement on how the car drove but that could just be me. The car drove a lot better under light loads but seemed to hit fuel cut way to easy but that was also when it was 30 degrees outside as well.
 
Help pretty please?? What if Zombies or Kim Jong-un attacks and my car overheats while attempting to escape?? (thought)
 
did you get the radiator checked, or swapped for a new one yet? cuz that was suggested already, but you didnt say anything about results.
 
Yeah, I didnt... because I am a cheap . I will seal the crack on the radiator and see if it over heats still. I am also going to remove the thermostat and fill the radiatior with water to see if the pump is actually producing any water pressure.
 
try that first, itd make sense that a leak in the system would cause a loss in pressure. do you ever notice any coolant in the overflow tank? im assuming since you have a leak that youre constantly low-ish at least? does the coolant in overflow tank boil when you overheat?
 
One little correction here... cooling system pressure is NOT created by the water pump. The system is pressurized as the coolant heats up and expands. The pump simply circulates water through the cooling system.

Have you replaced the radiator cap yet? If you let the car warm up to the point where it's beginning to overheat, then let it cool down COMPLETELY (several hours) when you remove the radiator cap, is it filled with coolant all the way to where the overflow hose attaches?
 
I will get back to yal on that later this evening. I will seal the crack and let it warm up, then see how she runs and if she overheats.

But is there a way to verify that the pump is actually circulating the coolant through the system?
 
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