Oil Analysis Results at 2100 miles!

[Joker2]

Oil Analysis Results at 2100 miles & 26,000 miles!



I guess I will replace oil at 2500 (currently at 2300) to get rid of those little buggers and then resample 2,000 miles later.

The Silicone is probably from casting sand, Copper from Cam bearings and Fuel from blow-by.

What do you think?
(hi)

 

[Joker2]

In case you were wondering: the choices for oil in 0w-20 are Mobil 1 (which is what I got from Rosenthal or Finishline my fave Mazda dealer), Castrol (which Mazda recommends and has a deal with), Eneos (hard to find in US at competitive price), or specialty Toyota (currently suffering a shortage), Amsoil and Honda branded stuff.

I will do the Mobil 1 next with an OEM Mazda filter.

 

[MacAttack7]

Was that the original oil or did you already change it once?
I changed mine at 500 miles to Castrol Edge 0-20.

I wasn't sure if it was a good idea or not, but I just went ahead & did it one day.
Everyone has a different opinion on whether to leave factory oil in until the manual says to change it or to change it out early.

 

[DocBeech]

blackstone labs gives your a full report along side your oil sample.

 

[MacAttack7]

blackstone labs gives your a full report along side your oil sample.

Yeah, I recommend them also. Used them on my old jeep. They give you a pretty nice report.

 

[Joker2]

blackstone labs gives your a full report along side your oil sample.

Not sure what "full report" means, but I have been doing OA since 1995 with the same folks (Lab One) on Aircraft Turbine Engines. Now they are just helping me out with my 4 wheeled and 2 wheeled hobbies.

I just want to see the facts.

Anyway, my report looks like any engine braking in. It is time to flush those baddies out by changing the oil. I will repost in 1 week and 2000 miles.

 

[Joker2]

Did not drive much. Today at 2600 I am going to the garage to change the oil, rotate tires and inspect for loose bits.
Car is fun! My OT2 kept some miles off this one.

 

[Joker2]

Oil changed: Mobil 1 0w-20 synthetic with Mazda OEM filter and crush-washer;
Tires rotated and torqued to spec (to be re-torqued in 1 week);
All underpinnings inspected (no defects noted);

Man that filter was tight. I had to ask friend for strap wrench with 3/8's breaker bar to loosen that up. Replacement filter asked for contact plus 1 complete turn (???). Done contact plus 3/4 turn and ended up 1/8 turn further than OEM.

Gotta paint the drums/rotors next time and in process of ordering some Dinitrol AV-10 or equivalent CIC as the OEM rust-proofing seems a bit scarce.

All good fun!

 

[MacAttack7]

Oil changed: Mobil 1 0w-20 synthetic with Mazda OEM filter and crush-washer;
Tires rotated and torqued to spec (to be re-torqued in 1 week);
All underpinnings inspected (no defects noted);

Man that filter was tight. I had to ask friend for strap wrench with 3/8's breaker bar to loosen that up. Replacement filter asked for contact plus 1 complete turn (???). Done contact plus 3/4 turn and ended up 1/8 turn further than OEM.

Gotta paint the drums/rotors next time and in process of ordering some Dinitrol AV-10 or equivalent CIC as the OEM rust-proofing seems a bit scarce.

All good fun!

In what areas is the rust-proofing scarce? Is it easy to apply yourself?

 

[Joker2]

I'll take some pics this weekend and then post.
Yes, CICs (corrosion inhibiting compounds) are easy to apply though you need to wrap rubber parts and wiring for protection.

 

[lovmyrx7]

Oil changed: Mobil 1 0w-20 synthetic with Mazda OEM filter and crush-washer;
Tires rotated and torqued to spec (to be re-torqued in 1 week);
All underpinnings inspected (no defects noted);

Man that filter was tight. I had to ask friend for strap wrench with 3/8's breaker bar to loosen that up. Replacement filter asked for contact plus 1 complete turn (???). Done contact plus 3/4 turn and ended up 1/8 turn further than OEM.

Gotta paint the drums/rotors next time and in process of ordering some Dinitrol AV-10 or equivalent CIC as the OEM rust-proofing seems a bit scarce.

All good fun!

They put those suckers on TIGHT from the factory. After that, they're cake. General rule of thumb (unless your really OCD), we're recommended to rotate the tires every other oil change, so every 6,000 miles.

When I get my 2, the first thing that is done after I get her is an oil change. The oil might have not sat very long since they are so new, but that's a risk I'm not willing to take...

 

[MazdaTwo]

They put those suckers on TIGHT from the factory. After that, they're cake. General rule of thumb (unless your really OCD), we're recommended to rotate the tires every other oil change, so every 6,000 miles.

When I get my 2, the first thing that is done after I get her is an oil change. The oil might have not sat very long since they are so new, but that's a risk I'm not willing to take...

Changing 0w-20 full synthetic oil every 3K miles is completely overkill. There's no reason to go less that 5k miles between changes with full synthetic. Just make it easy and do oil and rotation every 5K.

 

[Joker2]

I am sampling every 2,000 after OC just to see how my engine is working. I do believe that the OC interval should be determined by the duty cycle, not by mileage. Severe duty-cycle should drive synthetic OC interval down to 1,000 miles or up to 5,000 miles. I will post results from my Miata that gets Autocross and Track days. At 1300 miles the lifters get noisy. Let's wait and see what the Oil Analysis looks like before we draw any conclusions. There is some cost-benefit required, if one were to consider a junkyard replacement engine, or an engine repair, or a Sunbelt/Robello ($10,000) engine.

To each his own, I guess! I am only doing this to better comprehend what sort of machining process is taking place inside my engine.

 

[Joker2]

Changed oil after last sample and here is how we are looking:

This is just around 2,000 miles after oil change just like the first sample. About 4700 miles life to date on engine. I sample this way to have some machining time on the engine.

Should I continue this 'till when?

1. End of Life? Engine Life
2. Till 60/60,000 warranty expiration for engine?
3. Save some money and sample something else?

 

[ddawson]

Was the 1st check on the OEM oil? It had a good amount of Moly in it.

 

[Joker2]

Yes ddawson, first sample analyzed was on OEM oil. I changed that oil out at ~2600 miles. Replaced it with Mobil 1 0W-20 as that is what my Mazda parts supplier had. I thought that Castrol may have supplied that oil, however my understanding is that ENEOS can also supply Mazda Japan with "brake-in" oil. The additive package in the break-in oil looked just fine, I was concerned with the larger wear metal suspended in the oil. Those particles are gone and my engine is free to make some more, however at a much reduced rate. I will resample in another 2K and if it looks fine, then at 6K on oil and change-out at 7,500 per schedule A or B, whichever is the milder duty cycle.

 

[Joker2]

OIL Sample UPDATE !!! @ 26,000 miles



Not too shabby!

 

[Joker2]

Let's see how the next 5 oil samples look like as the oil is changing to SN.
I do plan to run this car as a DD for at least 3-4 more years. It is too much fun.
Planning on changing tranny and coolant at 36K. Tranny will be Motorcraft GL-4 and coolant will be ??? TBD. Brake fluid also at 36K and will be Motul or Castrol SRF.

 

[AN7]

Interesting!

Well done!