OBD II Diagnostics failed
- Thread starter balilewis
- Start date
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
There are two possibilities for where that hose connects. Look at that metal black box like thing on your intake tubing. there should be two vacuum lines connected to that. One is longer, and will run all the way back to the passenger side of the car, connecting to a T-fitting, which will then go into both the purge canister, and the purge valve near the passenger side shock tower.
the other vacuum line will only travel half a foot or so and plug directly into the intake manifold neck just behind the throttle body. I think what has been cut in your situation is the longer line, so just run a new line from that T-fitting i mentioned back to the sensor on the intake piping.
the other vacuum line will only travel half a foot or so and plug directly into the intake manifold neck just behind the throttle body. I think what has been cut in your situation is the longer line, so just run a new line from that T-fitting i mentioned back to the sensor on the intake piping.
I went to autozone today and turns out that cut out vacuum line doesn't connect to anywhere. Everything is connected and plugged in.
That vacuum line must've connected to old air intake system.
Anyways, I talked to the guy and I'm going to try and clean my air intake,MAF sensor, and the air filter sometime this week.
The first oxygen sensor is located under the hood near the heat shield right? Because that's the one that I replaced.
Also, the guy I bought the car from said he did a sea foam treatment a couple weeks before he sold me his car. Maybe that did something?
That vacuum line must've connected to old air intake system.
Anyways, I talked to the guy and I'm going to try and clean my air intake,MAF sensor, and the air filter sometime this week.
The first oxygen sensor is located under the hood near the heat shield right? Because that's the one that I replaced.
Also, the guy I bought the car from said he did a sea foam treatment a couple weeks before he sold me his car. Maybe that did something?
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Wait, isn't that open line supposed to connect to the goldish valve mounted to the top of the intake tube that has the 2 wires running off of it? In the 2nd pic under your hand and under the black strut bar. Look at the backside of that and see if the nipple for that hose is broken off. I could swear there is supposed to be vacum hose and electrical connections to that part mounted to the intake. Not in my car today or I'd go look at mine. Check it out.
Look at that gold valve under the blue stb bar in the center right of the pic beside the brake resevoir lid with the wires going to it back by firewall, it appears there are also 2 hoses going to it. Make sure one of the nipples isn't broke off of yours. I think this is where that open hose goes. Who knows, it may just be unplugged. Plug it back if so or get another one of those if it is broken. Best pic I have of this online.............
Look at that gold valve under the blue stb bar in the center right of the pic beside the brake resevoir lid with the wires going to it back by firewall, it appears there are also 2 hoses going to it. Make sure one of the nipples isn't broke off of yours. I think this is where that open hose goes. Who knows, it may just be unplugged. Plug it back if so or get another one of those if it is broken. Best pic I have of this online.............
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Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
yeah man, i'm sort of lost too...Are you saying that cut vacuum line 'doesn't go anywhere' as its completely disconnected from the car?...as in, neither end is connected to anything? Its starting to appear more like this is the previous owners doing, and something to do with how he installed that intake.
If that cut hose is still connected to the engine, yet just floating out in the air on the other end, i can almost promise that is your problem. If he tapped the manifold and ran a new vacuum line from a different location to close off the purge system...thats fine (no idea why he would do that), but you'll need to simply get a line plug for that open end of the hose.
is that making sense? This is a little difficult as i said before; because of that intake.
If that cut hose is still connected to the engine, yet just floating out in the air on the other end, i can almost promise that is your problem. If he tapped the manifold and ran a new vacuum line from a different location to close off the purge system...thats fine (no idea why he would do that), but you'll need to simply get a line plug for that open end of the hose.
is that making sense? This is a little difficult as i said before; because of that intake.
Sorry I apologize. I wasn't clear.
One end of the hose (that was cut) is connected to the goldish valve with two wires running off it, and there are two hoses on that gold valve.
So me and the guy from autozone was trying to figure out where the cut hose will go to in the car, and we couldn't find it. I'll check later if it connects to the intake or not.
Meanwhile, I'm duct taping the open end of the hose until I can pick up a line plug tomorrow.
One end of the hose (that was cut) is connected to the goldish valve with two wires running off it, and there are two hoses on that gold valve.
So me and the guy from autozone was trying to figure out where the cut hose will go to in the car, and we couldn't find it. I'll check later if it connects to the intake or not.
Meanwhile, I'm duct taping the open end of the hose until I can pick up a line plug tomorrow.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
no problem, bud. I understand this is hard to describe.
that brass thing on your intake, just under strut tower bar (blue), should have a connection from the wiring harness...and 2 vacuum lines running into it, as you said. One of those vacuum lines will run about 6-8"s to the back of the throttle body...the other will run along the fire wall (under your strut tower bar) all the way to the other side of the engine bay. Did you trace both of those vacuum lines to their end points? Not trying to sound redundant, but all those vacuum lines are coupled together with plastic connectors and stuff...just behind the intake manifold, and its very easy to confuse each of them unless you physically disconnect those plastic couplers. From your first pics posted the other day it appears that it was cut in the middle (so you would still have a line running into that brass thing)...
and based on the engine code being thrown...that is exactly what happens from a vacuum leak into the intake manifold, although you should be having a major/minor vacuum leak code thrown as well...so we haven't pinpointed it yet it seems.
that brass thing on your intake, just under strut tower bar (blue), should have a connection from the wiring harness...and 2 vacuum lines running into it, as you said. One of those vacuum lines will run about 6-8"s to the back of the throttle body...the other will run along the fire wall (under your strut tower bar) all the way to the other side of the engine bay. Did you trace both of those vacuum lines to their end points? Not trying to sound redundant, but all those vacuum lines are coupled together with plastic connectors and stuff...just behind the intake manifold, and its very easy to confuse each of them unless you physically disconnect those plastic couplers. From your first pics posted the other day it appears that it was cut in the middle (so you would still have a line running into that brass thing)...
and based on the engine code being thrown...that is exactly what happens from a vacuum leak into the intake manifold, although you should be having a major/minor vacuum leak code thrown as well...so we haven't pinpointed it yet it seems.
Have you pulled the whole intake system off and inspected it? My master cylinder wore a hole in the intake elbow after a few months. Even the slightest pinhole will throw a lean code.
Do not blindly replace parts based on what the code tells you. They're sensors, they sense things. You don't blame your nose because something stinks.
Where are you from? Someone local might be able to help.
Do not blindly replace parts based on what the code tells you. They're sensors, they sense things. You don't blame your nose because something stinks.
Where are you from? Someone local might be able to help.
I'm located in San Diego right now.
So I've covered that one open vacuum hose, reset the CEL, drove it around, and the CEL came back again. Same code.
I found something interesting though and took a picture. Does the open vacuum hose connect to that?
http://imgur.com/a/x38zZ
And no holes on my intake system.
So I've covered that one open vacuum hose, reset the CEL, drove it around, and the CEL came back again. Same code.
I found something interesting though and took a picture. Does the open vacuum hose connect to that?
http://imgur.com/a/x38zZ
And no holes on my intake system.
Hard to see what that is.. Try here
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/xsvectOR/2010-12-03_145612_1.gif
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/xsvectOR/2010-12-03_145612_1.gif
autoscanner
Member
- :
- Audi
I suggest you to buy an auto scanner,or you can rent one to get codes.
(my two cents)
I recently bought a protege5 2.0 5-speed manual. It was on non opt with a dead battery, all the monitors were not ready.
How I got the monitors to be ready. Basically the same as above, just a bit different. This way worked for me, but it may or may not work for your vehicle.
The short version:
( charged battery, made sure i had at least 1/2 tank gas, had insurace and dmv moving permit)
Drive vehicle when vehicle cold (about 70-80 degrees F.) (best to do on like a saturday or sunday morning)
Drive vehicle, using light gas pedal, shifting easy if manual trans, rpm between 1800 to 2800 rpm, at 30 to 40 mph, for 15 minutes, making at least 2 FULL normal stops (like at stop lights).
Continue driving another 15 minutes, between 2200 to 3300 rpm, at about 45 to 52 mph, making at least 2 FULL normal stops (like at stop lights).
This part is important.
Pull into a parking lot of a fast food place or shopping center or what ever, park the vehicle and turn it OFF, get out, go get lunch or what ever. After 15 to 20 minutes, not more and not less, start the vehicle up and continue driving.
Continue driving for 15 minutes, rpm as if running late, driving normally, don't exceed 4200 rpm, at about 39 to 45 mph. Making at least 3 FULL normal stops, (like at stop lights).
Then drive back home or back to the smog shop, then park and turn off the vehicle. The emission monitors may be ready now.
Or the monitors might not be ready or might not be complete, and if not you should then refer your vehicle to a licensed repair shop to further diagnose the vehicle problems. Or try the drive procedure again.
From JJdaCool.
(some more info, mostly boring and you can skip it )
I tried the procedure listed in the link. Only I had the vehicle sitting stationary in my driveway. Trying that twice after doing a cold soak overnight each time, I was able to get these monitors to run: heated o2 sensor, misfire, evap.
****** ( then i put the vehicle up on jack stands, NOT RECOMMENDED, and tried a wheels spinning version of procedure listed. It didn't work. Though I did find a vacuum leak at the hose from the cruise control to the intake, i replaced that hose, that seemed to help a little.)
I then tried driving on the road with the vehicle cold, following the mazda procedure to the letter with 5 min idle and everything. The Catalyst, EGR, and O2 monitors still would not complete.
So I tried adding a ford type of procedure of a two trip drive cycle. That is where after 30 minutes of driving you stop and turn the engine off for about 20 minutes to let it cool down a little bit, then you drive for another 15 minutes or so. That seemed to work, because when I got to the smog shop, my cheap scanner said all the monitors were now ready. (GOOD!) And my Protege5 passed its CA smog cert on the first go.
Thats all.
From JJdaCool (The original JJdaCool, NorCal Sacatomato.)
I recently bought a protege5 2.0 5-speed manual. It was on non opt with a dead battery, all the monitors were not ready.
How I got the monitors to be ready. Basically the same as above, just a bit different. This way worked for me, but it may or may not work for your vehicle.
The short version:
( charged battery, made sure i had at least 1/2 tank gas, had insurace and dmv moving permit)
Drive vehicle when vehicle cold (about 70-80 degrees F.) (best to do on like a saturday or sunday morning)
Drive vehicle, using light gas pedal, shifting easy if manual trans, rpm between 1800 to 2800 rpm, at 30 to 40 mph, for 15 minutes, making at least 2 FULL normal stops (like at stop lights).
Continue driving another 15 minutes, between 2200 to 3300 rpm, at about 45 to 52 mph, making at least 2 FULL normal stops (like at stop lights).
This part is important.
Pull into a parking lot of a fast food place or shopping center or what ever, park the vehicle and turn it OFF, get out, go get lunch or what ever. After 15 to 20 minutes, not more and not less, start the vehicle up and continue driving.
Continue driving for 15 minutes, rpm as if running late, driving normally, don't exceed 4200 rpm, at about 39 to 45 mph. Making at least 3 FULL normal stops, (like at stop lights).
Then drive back home or back to the smog shop, then park and turn off the vehicle. The emission monitors may be ready now.
Or the monitors might not be ready or might not be complete, and if not you should then refer your vehicle to a licensed repair shop to further diagnose the vehicle problems. Or try the drive procedure again.
From JJdaCool.
(some more info, mostly boring and you can skip it )
I tried the procedure listed in the link. Only I had the vehicle sitting stationary in my driveway. Trying that twice after doing a cold soak overnight each time, I was able to get these monitors to run: heated o2 sensor, misfire, evap.
****** ( then i put the vehicle up on jack stands, NOT RECOMMENDED, and tried a wheels spinning version of procedure listed. It didn't work. Though I did find a vacuum leak at the hose from the cruise control to the intake, i replaced that hose, that seemed to help a little.)
I then tried driving on the road with the vehicle cold, following the mazda procedure to the letter with 5 min idle and everything. The Catalyst, EGR, and O2 monitors still would not complete.
So I tried adding a ford type of procedure of a two trip drive cycle. That is where after 30 minutes of driving you stop and turn the engine off for about 20 minutes to let it cool down a little bit, then you drive for another 15 minutes or so. That seemed to work, because when I got to the smog shop, my cheap scanner said all the monitors were now ready. (GOOD!) And my Protege5 passed its CA smog cert on the first go.
Thats all.
From JJdaCool (The original JJdaCool, NorCal Sacatomato.)
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