New CX-5 Owner

[jjp735i]

I traded in my 2003 325xi for the CX-5 and it was a great move. BMW do cost more to own, but I kept my 545i and it's been trouble free for 4 years. Remember most forums are only a fraction of the owners and most people post only negative problems they have with cars.

I've owned 4 BMW's and only one gave me some problems. All the others ran trouble free. Comparing a BMW to CX-5 to me is like apples and oranges. BMW''s quality is far nicer then Mazda. The only thing I hate about owning BMW's is oil leaks can be very expensive to fix compared to other cars.

 

[Unobtanium]

I traded in my 2003 325xi for the CX-5 and it was a great move. BMW do cost more to own, but I kept my 545i and it's been trouble free for 4 years. Remember most forums are only a fraction of the owners and most people post only negative problems they have with cars.

I've owned 4 BMW's and only one gave me some problems. All the others ran trouble free. Comparing a BMW to CX-5 to me is like apples and oranges. BMW''s quality is far nicer then Mazda. The only thing I hate about owning BMW's is oil leaks can be very expensive to fix compared to other cars.

I dunno man, this forum has a few quirks posted about, but just go to the Jeep forums! LOL!

 

[TheGanzman]

Well, my 2016 CX5 AWD GT is AS quiet or even quieter than my BMW X6 50i was - due mostly I think to the GIANT tires on the X6, which were quite noisy. The CX5 is no rocket sled, that's for sure - but I find that when I switch it to "Sport" mode, and/or shift it manually, that it's got plenty of get up and go. Judging from the complaints I've read about noise, hood and mirror shake, etc. on the CX5, it certainly seems to ME that Mazda "got it right" on the 2016 as far as THESE issues are concerned; at least they got it right on MY CX5!

Once I do the paddle shifter mod on my CX5, I think I will have achieved "nirvana". At ~1,600 miles, I have had ZERO problems/complaints/issues - LOVE the steering feedback; the brake feel is totally linear (geez - the brakes on the BMW X6 were SO touchy - from 0-Lockup in ~2mm of travel), zero wind noisy, zero mirror shake, zero hood shake. No oil consumption so far, and mileage is edging up - now at 24.5 combined; love me some REGULAR gas pricing at fill-up too!

 

[Tccox]

I traded in my 2003 325xi for the CX-5 and it was a great move. BMW do cost more to own, but I kept my 545i and it's been trouble free for 4 years. Remember most forums are only a fraction of the owners and most people post only negative problems they have with cars.

I've owned 4 BMW's and only one gave me some problems. All the others ran trouble free. Comparing a BMW to CX-5 to me is like apples and oranges. BMW''s quality is far nicer then Mazda. The only thing I hate about owning BMW's is oil leaks can be very expensive to fix compared to other cars.

Well, disagree here. Now my 228i was near the bottom of the BMW line, however the quality of my CX-5 is certainly equal to and maybe slightly better that my BMWs. Loving my CX-5 more each day, and no $1200 brake jobs!

 

[CX-5um]

I traded in my 2003 325xi for the CX-5 and it was a great move. BMW do cost more to own, but I kept my 545i and it's been trouble free for 4 years. Remember most forums are only a fraction of the owners and most people post only negative problems they have with cars.

I've owned 4 BMW's and only one gave me some problems. All the others ran trouble free. Comparing a BMW to CX-5 to me is like apples and oranges. BMW''s quality is far nicer then Mazda. The only thing I hate about owning BMW's is oil leaks can be very expensive to fix compared to other cars.

Well, disagree here. Now my 228i was near the bottom of the BMW line, however the quality of my CX-5 is certainly equal to and maybe slightly better that my BMWs. Loving my CX-5 more each day, and no $1200 brake jobs!

Had a BMW 325i. Other than the constant broken power window regulators, lights burning out, and clogging AC drip tubes causing mildew smells it was a workhorse. DIY parts/fluids for used BMWs are only a bit cheaper than having service done for new Mazdas at a Mazda dealership.

 

[jjp735i]

Don't get me wrong, I'm loving my 2016 CX-5 and have not experienced any of the problems like wind noise, mirror shack, etc... I'm so glad I took months to research this car.

 

[Unobtanium]

I have a 2015. Floppy hood, shaky mirror, and I really don't care. Everything works, and it is reliable. That is what matters to me. It's a toaster.

 

[123373]

I had a 370Z and it had issues, as well. Not a Nissan fan. The CX-5 is a cheap little commuter. It does that very well. Superlatively. It's not luxury, performance, or otherwise. What it is, is a delightful little toaster that I hope keeps slogging along year after year! If you expected it to excite you...brother...you bought a cheap 4 cylinder SUV! What were you smoking? LOL!

Lol I know I am just spoiled for power. I will say that the CX5 handles better than the CRV, Escape, and is way more fun to drive than both of them.

 

[fdew]

I traded a Audi Allroad. Twin turbos Audi handling, Luxo. I traded because health issues require that I sit up straight to be comfortable but I looked a long time to find a compact SUV that handled. I prefer the CX-5 If they were both in the driveway and I didn't have the health issue. I would take the CX-5 The only luxury I really miss is the heated steering wheel.

Zoom Zoom

 

[123373]

And quality seems to be every bit the equal to the BMW.. So so far very very happy CX-5 owner here.

Glad your happy, but my CX5's quality is not even close to my 2011 328 with 105,000 miles. The trim panel covering the lower console on the drivers side has fallen off twice. Both caps covering the usb and 12 volt power adapter in the center console broke off. My front rotors warped at 26k. Rear brakes had to be replaced at 30k. Seats squeak, drivers side mirror rattles and was already replaced once, hood is so thin it bounces up and down. I bought the Grand touring fully loaded so I expected good quality for 30k not have it fall apart before 30k!

 

[Unobtanium]

Glad your happy, but my CX5's quality is not even close to my 2011 328 with 105,000 miles. The trim panel covering the lower console on the drivers side has fallen off twice. Both caps covering the usb and 12 volt power adapter in the center console broke off. My front rotors warped at 26k. Rear brakes had to be replaced at 30k. Seats squeak, drivers side mirror rattles and was already replaced once, hood is so thin it bounces up and down. I bought the Grand touring fully loaded so I expected good quality for 30k not have it fall apart before 30k!

I question if your rotors actually warped. I question this because Nissan destroyed the brakes on my 370Z numerous times, costing me plenty of money. When they rotate tires and use an impact gun without a tq bar on it, and even sometimes with, it can warp the hats. The simple truth of it is that you don't warp brakes through using them. I've never heard of it, anyways. You may get deposits, etc. and you may make a warp or imbalance worse by heating it up, but the initial damage is a non-driving cause. Nissan finally admitted their error and paid me back for some of the damages. I was still out $500 on a set of then worthless Z1 slotted rotors that didn't even get me home before I noticed how warped they were.

Then, I've had some vehicles that COULD take that kind of hamfisted mechanic work. Such as every Ford and GM I've owned, lol. Some designs are finicky though, and it's my experience with my 370Z and G20 that Japanese brands typically have very delicate parts. They work great if you follow manufacturer protocol's and maintenance 100% to the T, but step out of line once, and they will take a dump on you in a heartbeat. This is why my CX5 is dealer-service-only, at a Mazda dealer. Even though I have 3 years of free oil changes, etc. at the Chevy dealer...

 

[123373]

M

I question if your rotors actually warped. I question this because Nissan destroyed the brakes on my 370Z numerous times, costing me plenty of money. When they rotate tires and use an impact gun without a tq bar on it, and even sometimes with, it can warp the hats. The simple truth of it is that you don't warp brakes through using them. I've never heard of it, anyways. You may get deposits, etc. and you may make a warp or imbalance worse by heating it up, but the initial damage is a non-driving cause. Nissan finally admitted their error and paid me back for some of the damages. I was still out $500 on a set of then worthless Z1 slotted rotors that didn't even get me home before I noticed how warped they were.

Then, I've had some vehicles that COULD take that kind of hamfisted mechanic work. Such as every Ford and GM I've owned, lol. Some designs are finicky though, and it's my experience with my 370Z and G20 that Japanese brands typically have very delicate parts. They work great if you follow manufacturer protocol's and maintenance 100% to the T, but step out of line once, and they will take a dump on you in a heartbeat. This is why my CX5 is dealer-service-only, at a Mazda dealer. Even though I have 3 years of free oil changes, etc. at the Chevy dealer...

You are correct. I believe it was caused by the dealer over torquing the lug nuts, because they rotate the tires with every service. Pat Goss on motor week had an episode dedicated to this issue. I went to the dealer and told them and the service manager said I never heard of this phenomena and he confirmed my front rotors are warped. He told just live with it until you need front brakes. I am just frustrated because there are not many dealers around and this one is always trying to nickel and dime me every free oil change. I already logged a complaint against them at Mazda corporate. My lesson is that if you let the dealer rotate your tires, loosen and snug all of your lug nuts after you get home, or just take the time to rotate the tires on your own despite the inconvenience.

 

[MikeM.]

I question if your rotors actually warped. I question this because Nissan destroyed the brakes on my 370Z numerous times, costing me plenty of money. When they rotate tires and use an impact gun without a tq bar on it, and even sometimes with, it can warp the hats. The simple truth of it is that you don't warp brakes through using them. I've never heard of it, anyways. You may get deposits, etc. and you may make a warp or imbalance worse by heating it up, but the initial damage is a non-driving cause.

The actual mechanism by which rotors warp and/or accumulate uneven deposits that lead to pulsing when braking does involve driving although it's cause, as you indicate, has it's roots in improper mechanical work. Disc brakes convert energy of momentum to heat energy. The heat has to go somewhere and high performance brakes are designed to dissipate as much heat as possible through the hub/wheel interface while remaining relatively lightweight. What this means is when you bolt a wheel on with lug nuts you are not only creating a mechanical connection between the wheel and hub but also a thermodynamic connection. Torqueing the lug nuts unevenly does not warp the disc but it can cause thermal imbalances under braking (or hotter areas of the disc because the heat is escaping the disc unevenly). This can warp the disc and/or cause pad material to deposit on the hotter areas of the disc surface.

The exact same issue can occur even with proper torque on every lug nut simply because the mating surfaces of the wheel and disc are not evenly clean. Heat transfer between two, flat, mated metal surfaces is very sensitive to even thin layers of corrosion or microscopic debris like dust and loose fibers. That is why simply re-torqueing the lug nuts may not be enough to prevent the problem. The heat of braking must be evenly distributed to the adjacent surfaces or temperature imbalances will occur. The harder you use your brakes, the more likely it is to be an issue although, even relatively normal braking, like making a stop from highway speeds, creates enough heat to cause the problem if there are heat transfer imbalances. That's why I always polish the mating surfaces with a clean oily rag before installing the lug nuts. If there are rough spots they can be polished off with emery cloth, Scotchbrite pad or steel wool before wiping them down and re-installing.

Do you really think the tire jockey at your local shop is going to take the same care? If they do you are very lucky indeed. I prefer not to leave it to luck.

 

[IHeartGroceries]

^To answer your question, not likely, because as proven in the posts above, not even folks who should know are privy to the information you shared. It's a shame to approach a service manager at a dealership only to be presented with incompetence...

Anyway, closing the gap on 4 years with my CX-5. A few quirks/anomalies here and there but overall, scant any issue. Until last week, hadn't cost me a dollar outside of routine maintenance - had to replace the OE Panasonic battery.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Tccox]

Just a quick follow up. Three weeks of CX-5 ownership and I haven't missed the BMW a bit. Zero problems only very minor complaints. Totally love this vehicle and if anything the build quality is better than the BMWs. Best decision I've ever made.

 

[MikeM.]

Just a quick follow up. Three weeks of CX-5 ownership and I haven't missed the BMW a bit. Zero problems only very minor complaints. Totally love this vehicle and if anything the build quality is better than the BMWs. Best decision I've ever made.

Hey, that's great to hear!

Keep us updated over time.