Need help finding wire for alarm install!!!

[talon4x4]

I've got my car, '02 Protege 5, in pieces and the first wire I go to hook up I can't find.

Parking Lights +, lt. green black, N/A, drivers kick panel
Parking Lights -, brown, N/A, Head Light switch
Headlights, red/yellow, -, headlight switch
Door Trigger, black/blue, -, drivers kick panel

I'm looking for the + parking light wire, which according to the FAQ it should be on the drivers kick panel, lt green/black. I've found a couple lt.green/black wires over there so I'm not sure which to use. I thought it would be with the door trigger (which I found) but there are no lt.green black wires in the group of wires where I found the door trigger.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Dexter]

the parking light plus wire is in the big blocky harness.

pull off that lower dash peice under the steering wheel. the big block on the left side and clipped there is where its at.

 

[1sty]

Your so fired! (lol2)

its right under neither the dash on the left. I edited the sticky to make the locations clearer.

Parking Lights Wire
http://www.msprotege.com/members/1s...ight%20wire.JPG

 

[talon4x4]

Ahhh....thanks for the info. I just decided to run it to the brown (-) parking light wire. All I had to do was change the jumper on the alarm for it to work.

Something that would be helpful to add to the FAQ would be wire sizes. Unfortunetly I bought all 12-14ga connectors. They don't work too well on the 16-20ga wires, not to mention the 10-12ga on the ignition harness. Soldering wires on the ignition harness in such a small space is proving quite difficult!!

 

[1sty]

Ahhh....thanks for the info. I just decided to run it to the brown (-) parking light wire. All I had to do was change the jumper on the alarm for it to work.

Something that would be helpful to add to the FAQ would be wire sizes. Unfortunetly I bought all 12-14ga connectors. They don't work too well on the 16-20ga wires, not to mention the 10-12ga on the ignition harness. Soldering wires on the ignition harness in such a small space is proving quite difficult!!

You shouldn't need connectors for any wire.
All should be soldered and taped.

 

[talon4x4]

Well, I didn't really want to solder and tape all connections. Just for the simple fact that I don't know how much longer I will have the car. I figured the alarm would be alot easier to remove later if all I had to do was disconnect everything rather than reconnect all the cut/soldered wires.

The only wires that I soldered where all the ones at the ignition harness.

 

[1sty]

The problem is that all of the connections ae alot more likely to fail now. Especaily if you used something like scotch locks.

 

[talon4x4]

You do have a point. I did go back around and solder most of the connections.

I have another question hopefully you can answer. I'm installing a Hornet alarm. It comes with a toggle switch for the neutral safety interface. In the install diagram for the Hornet it shows the b/w neutral safety input(from alarm) going to one side of the toggle switch and it shows a park/neutral wire from the vehicle going to the other. Is the park/neutral the same as the pink/green wire under the battery tray?? And is a relay necessary?? The reason I ask is no realy is mentioned in the Hornet book, but the stick here shows one being used.

Thanks for all the help!!!

 

[1sty]

The idea of the swithc is to act as a kill switch. Bascily if its thrown, the car will not remote start. Its basicly a valet switch if your going to use valet parking.

Most often, its not even used on autos or standards. You do want to hook the neutral saftey lead of the brain to the cars nuetral safety wire though if you have a standard. You can put the switch in line if you feel like it. If you have an auto, then the neutral wire is unnessary as the car will not start out of nuetral on newer cars anyways. Its a hold over from a time long since gone . Typicly with an automatic trnasmission AND ONLY AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, the nuetral safety wire of the brain is just grounded.

 

[talon4x4]

Gotcha! So I can eliminate the switch, but will still need to use a relay(I do have a standard). I would assume I can get away with using just a single relay on the ignition wire? Can I just hook it up like the left side of the pic?

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2153

 

[1sty]

That relay setup isn't actualy needed and it can be reduced to a single relay. I used none. I only have 2 relays for the door locks and one for the clutch bypass, thats it. The diagram is elementals fail safe. Essentialy that relay configuration is in the remote starters brain. It just externaly makes sure that the car can not start if the car is not in nuetral. The brain iteslf will do that as it will not start if it doesn't see ground on the nuetral safety wire. I don't know if he actualy grounded the brains nuetral safety wire or if he hooked that up to the transmission wire aswell. Either way, it can never hurt to me extra safe, although with more connections come the chance of more failures. If one of those extra taps to the cars nuetral wire grounds for instance, the car will allow itself to start.

 

[talon4x4]

Ahh I got it now! Originally I misread your post about the neutral safety wire and thought it said DON'T hook it up to the alarm. I think I got this whole thing down.

I do have one final question (I hope) . I was playing around with the alarm and so far everything appears to be working except the siren. It only needs to be hooked up to a brown wire on the alarm and grounded, simple. I used a ground under the hood, which is being used by something else, but that shouldn't matter should it?? I get no audible alert when the alarm is triggered. The lights flash and everything though and the LED shows what zone was triggered.

Sorry 'bout all the questions, but thanks for the quick/great responses!!