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My First Oil Change
- Thread starter 02589
- Start date
02589 said:I also decided to use Mobil 1.
How many miles on the car? I never change to synthetic until 10k. Ever.
I'm not saying it will be a bad thing. It's not automatic. I guess you could call me superstitious.
Likely you'll not have oil coke in the turbo because it's oil and water cooled. Even after you shut down the engine coolant is flowing a bit and keeping things cooler than not. Still, I always idle my car (usually too long, according to my wife) before I shut it off. Always have with a turbo, always will.
I'm hesitant to add a turbo time until I'm 100% certain I won't be having major issues with the car. Until then, I sit and stare or listen to the radio. Sweet.
Likely you'll not have oil coke in the turbo because it's oil and water cooled. Even after you shut down the engine coolant is flowing a bit and keeping things cooler than not. Still, I always idle my car (usually too long, according to my wife) before I shut it off. Always have with a turbo, always will.
I'm hesitant to add a turbo time until I'm 100% certain I won't be having major issues with the car. Until then, I sit and stare or listen to the radio. Sweet.
I'm gonna wait till 3500 miles (3500 everytime after also), take it to the dealer, and use what the manual recommends; what do you guys think of that.
I'm gonna wait till 3500 miles (3500 everytime after also), take it to the dealer, and use what the manual recommends; what do you guys think of that?
I pick up mine on Monday.
02589 said:I changed at the end of break in. aka 600 miles. I'm nearing 2000 now. I understand the theory of not changing until about 10k and I wont even try to dispute it. If I had bought a more mainstream car without a turbo, I would probably have waited much longer myself.
My theory at the time was to put a bigger focus on protecting the turbo from heat as well as protect from oil coking up in the turbo. Right or wrong, I gambled that the weakest link in the chain would be the turbo. I think that between my warm up and cool down procedures along with synthetic oil flow, I will put as many odds in my favor as I can in regards to the turbo lifespan.
With my theory comes faith in the engine. I know that they don't machine parts and build engines with the same tolerances and clearances as they did when I was a kid. I know the parts don't break in and seat the way they used to many years ago. The problem is that I don't know how they make them, I just know it's different than the old school method. My last 5 cars came with Mobil 1 from the factory.
It's a gamble I was willing to take and I have no regrets at this time.
My dealer handed me a service schedule card for the first oil change, which they said was due at 1500 miles. I've always thought the first should be done a bit earlier, especially with a turbo motor. I've always run synthetic in my cars, even in my 02 F-350 7.3L Diesel (picture the oil change bill for 15 quarts of synthetic diesel oil - ugh). So although i'll be bringing the car to the dealer for that change, and insisting on synthetic, i was wondering if anyone else had gotten the same recommendation as far as mileage before changing?
i only have 200miles on the car as of today, so...
thanks in advance - finding this forum is like wading in a stream and stubbing your toe on a chunky gold nugget!
Changed the oil on mine this weekend... the original writeup made things easierm thanks (thumb) Have a couple notes, one important one:
- the engine cover is easy to take off, all you need is a 10mm socket and a small flat screwdriver for the plastic pin. The oil drain plug is 17mm, the drain for the filer is a metric allen wrench (not sure what size).
- I bought a Valvoline #1 oil filter removal cap-type wrench, which seems to be the right fit but it kept slipping on the filter. I solved that by wedging a thin rubber mat between the filter and the wrench. Might order the wrench from Mazda to see of theirs is a better fit.
- Oil I used was Mobil1 Extended Performance Synthetic 5W-30. Supposed to last 15k miles but I wouldn't leave it in there more than 10. That said, such long oil change intervals are common in Europe on many cars - today's modern synthetic oils just last longer.
- IMPORTANT: The manual states that when changing both oil and filter, the capacity is 6 U.S. quarts. This is exactly what I put in, then drove the car for a bit, let it settle and checked the oil level. It was too high, way past the MAX mark!! After several more measurements, I decided to drain about half a quart (I'm guesstimating here) and now the level is right at the MAX mark.
Moral of the story: Put in 5 - 5.5 quarts, check oil level and add as necessary. Filling it with 6 quarts may lead to overfilling, which could potentially damage the engine.
Oh, and after removing the oil pan drain plug, the oil shoots out way farther than I expected (pissed) Make sure to cover a large area of the floor under the car (newspaper works well).
- the engine cover is easy to take off, all you need is a 10mm socket and a small flat screwdriver for the plastic pin. The oil drain plug is 17mm, the drain for the filer is a metric allen wrench (not sure what size).
- I bought a Valvoline #1 oil filter removal cap-type wrench, which seems to be the right fit but it kept slipping on the filter. I solved that by wedging a thin rubber mat between the filter and the wrench. Might order the wrench from Mazda to see of theirs is a better fit.
- Oil I used was Mobil1 Extended Performance Synthetic 5W-30. Supposed to last 15k miles but I wouldn't leave it in there more than 10. That said, such long oil change intervals are common in Europe on many cars - today's modern synthetic oils just last longer.
- IMPORTANT: The manual states that when changing both oil and filter, the capacity is 6 U.S. quarts. This is exactly what I put in, then drove the car for a bit, let it settle and checked the oil level. It was too high, way past the MAX mark!! After several more measurements, I decided to drain about half a quart (I'm guesstimating here) and now the level is right at the MAX mark.
Moral of the story: Put in 5 - 5.5 quarts, check oil level and add as necessary. Filling it with 6 quarts may lead to overfilling, which could potentially damage the engine.
Oh, and after removing the oil pan drain plug, the oil shoots out way farther than I expected (pissed) Make sure to cover a large area of the floor under the car (newspaper works well).
Yes, the car was warm and I let it drain for quite a while. The car wasn't level, the front wheels were up on a ramp so that may have possibly led to a bit of the oil not draining (although based on the position of the plug, it should drain completely). That might explain it, though.02589 said:Otto, mine was 6 quarts, exactly. Was your oil warm when you drained it? Was your car level when you drained it?
If the filter wrench slips, it's a hair too big. However, if you can make it work, good for you. Since the cap is plastic/bakelite/whatever, NEVER use one of those squeeze type band wrenches.
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