My Eclipse Amp

badboyeee

Member
:
2002 mazda protege5 upgrading to a 2003
I have a PA5422 4 channel amp. Does anyone know if it is stable to bridge two channels together at 2 Ohms? And how many watts that would probably produce?

Also if anyone knows where I can get a manual for my amp online?

Below are the specs:

PA5422: 4/3/2 Channel Power Amplifier with ChannelFlex Crossover

* 200W 4 Channel Max. Power Output at 2ohm
* 120W 4 Channel 0.1% THD at 2ohm Stereo,
2020,000Hz@13.8V (RMS Continuous Power)
* 85W 4 Channel 0.1% THD at 4ohm Stereo,
2020,000Hz@13.8V (RMS Continuous Power)
* ChannelFlex Crossover High-Pass Crossover (12dB/octave, 120Hz)
Adjustable Low-Pass Crossover
(12dB/octave, 50200Hz)
Adjustable Pre-Out High-Pass Crossover
(12dB/octave, 50200Hz)
* Subsonic Filter (050Hz)
* Free-Flow Signal Circuit
* Double-Sided PCB
* High-Current, High-Speed Output Devices
* High-Efficiency, High-Energy MOSFET Power Supply
* Audiophile Grade Component Selection
* Intelligent 7-Way Discrete Protection Circuitry
* Music Reproduction with Low Distortion & Ultra-Low Negative Feedback
* Efficient Cooling with Low-Profile Heatsink
* Multi-Mode Configuration
* Stereo/Mono Switch
* 2ohm Stable Design
 
RyanJayG said:
I'm guessing probably not...

what sub setup are you trying to run? 2 subs, or a DVC sub? and what are the ohm ratings of the sub(s)?

manual here: http://cartoys.com/cartoy/pdfs/eclipse_amp_manual.pdf

Cool, Thanks!
Ok I see it can run at 240W RMS bridged at 4 ohms.
But can't bridge them at 2ohms?

I am running one DVC RE10 sub. I believe they are 4ohm DVC, but those have to be hooked up at 2ohms?
 
instead of bridging it you could run one channel to each coil, but I would only do this if the amp has a good way to run mono. both channels combined. you'd also have to be absolutely sure you get both coils' polarity correct... wouldn't want them fighting eachother.

and I'm not even sure this is sound advice... I'm sure someone who does this for a living can comment.

**EDIT** I just got to read the pdf (since on dialup it takes forever to load) and this probably isn't a good idea, it wouldn't be very much power.

I don't know what the best course of action is with this amp / sub combination.
 
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It has a switch for 3 different modes:
Mono(L), Stereo, & L+R

Im not sure what that L+R means...
 
so if it puts out 240w RMS bridged at 4ohms, it should be pushing 400w rms at 2ohms? is there a way i can measure wattage with my cheapo multimeter?
 
I agree w/ RyanJ. If you have dual 4 ohm voice coils you will present the amp with 8 ohm load by connecting the vc's in series and a 4 ohm load if you connected them in parallel. Check this out: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wiringwizard.asp

What you could do is combine channels 1 & 2 and hook them up to one vc and channels 3 & 4 to the other. The amp should be happy b/c you have shown it a 4 ohm load. I'm not sure the power handeling capability of that sub, but I would seem to me that it would be underpowerd assuming that at 14.4v you might get 200 watts per voice coil for a total of 400 watts. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

My suggestion would be to sell that amp to me (hehehe cause I've been looking everywhere for one!!!) and buy either a mono or a two channel that is rated slightly higher than the sub.
 
A 2 ohm bridged load equates to a 1 ohm stereo load so the amp can DEFINITLY NOT HANDLE IT!!!!!!!1111
It will fry or you may get lucky and it will go into protection.

Its just not a good match. You should look into getting a small mono amp to power just the sub as it is a total of a 2 ohm load.
 
FoxPro5 said:
I agree w/ RyanJ. If you have dual 4 ohm voice coils you will present the amp with 8 ohm load by connecting the vc's in series and a 4 ohm load if you connected them in parallel. Check this out: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wiringwizard.asp

What you could do is combine channels 1 & 2 and hook them up to one vc and channels 3 & 4 to the other. The amp should be happy b/c you have shown it a 4 ohm load. I'm not sure the power handeling capability of that sub, but I would seem to me that it would be underpowerd assuming that at 14.4v you might get 200 watts per voice coil for a total of 400 watts. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

My suggestion would be to sell that amp to me (hehehe cause I've been looking everywhere for one!!!) and buy either a mono or a two channel that is rated slightly higher than the sub.

if you want one, here ya go, and on sale too... http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=215
I only looked one place, but other stores might have it cheaper. I dunno, dialup sucks too much to really go looking.
 
I actually have been running this sub bridged (channels 3 & 4), which I thought would be at 2ohms, for quite a few months now. The gains are set halfway. RE's website recommends 175W RMS on my RE10 sub. Channels 1 & 2 are powering my fronts.

My amp has never gone into protection mode. But I do notice that the amp gets quite warm, compared to when I used to run my JL10W0 (4ohm). I was a bit alarmed about it being really "warm" but never made a big deal since it seemed to be running just fine. Am I slowly killing my amp?


FoxPro5, I thought you got 125x4 Alpine amp!?
 
killing your amp, possibly. It is not designed to be 2ohm bridged stable, but that's not to say that you can't run it there. Alot of amps will actually handle more of a load then they're designed/advertised to handle, but it's not the best for longevity.
 
badboyeee said:
FoxPro5, I thought you got 125x4 Alpine amp!?

Well I decided to go with the f345 which is rated at 75x4 but its birth sheet shows 104x4. The f545 is a little to long to squeeze under the Pro's seats.

I'm jealous that you have that amp and I don't, that's all...just razzin ya a little more for stealin my $20. I hope your sub situation works out, you have some nice equipment. (cheers2)
 
Poseur said:
killing your amp, possibly. It is not designed to be 2ohm bridged stable, but that's not to say that you can't run it there. Alot of amps will actually handle more of a load then they're designed/advertised to handle, but it's not the best for longevity.

Well I figured bridging it at 2ohms can possibly put out ~400w RMS. I was hoping that would be safe & stable, so I can possibly upgrade my sub to a SE10 or something.

But too bad thats not the case. Since I'm running my gain setting pretty low, hopefully that will be okay. Maybe I should just put back my JL10W0.
 
FoxPro5 said:
Well I decided to go with the f345 which is rated at 75x4 but its birth sheet shows 104x4. The f545 is a little to long to squeeze under the Pro's seats.

I'm jealous that you have that amp and I don't, that's all...just razzin ya a little more for stealin my $20. I hope your sub situation works out, you have some nice equipment. (cheers2)

Well I think your equipment puts mine to shame. Lets see, MB quart premium components upfront. MB Quart mono amp with 500w(?) RMS 12" sub. And now your Alpine f345 (just checked it out, looks like a really nice amp!). Wanna trade systems? :D
 
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