My car is down..again
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
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- MSP 1145
"One square inch of QuikSteel can lift three cars."<~~find that hard to believe. but still try it out, if nothing better, JB weld the s*** out of it.LinuxRacr said:
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- MSP 1145
there you go man. that works. there's one on there specifically for engine blocks. " seal up"..grab that stuff. better than the quick steel stuff.LinuxRacr said:
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- MSP 1145
post up pictures. let us know what the deal is. thanks.
TX Speed Demon
Member
Don't use the quick steel putty, use the epoxy. i used the putty on my old Taurus to try and seal a whole in the gas tank, I could never mix it right enough to get it to stick. It would stick for a little while, but when I put any pressure on it the whole piece would come off.
I ended up replacing it with JB Quick Weld later that day. That stuff heald up for months. I was even able to file it smooth on the outside of the tank without it breaking off. If it can take the temperatures I'd use that.
I ended up replacing it with JB Quick Weld later that day. That stuff heald up for months. I was even able to file it smooth on the outside of the tank without it breaking off. If it can take the temperatures I'd use that.
I'm actually probably going to go with the Seal-Up, and not the Quick Steel, since it is specially made for the applications for which I need it.
This discussion of JB Weld, and the cracked block has it's own thread now:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2618358
<!--IBF.ATTACHMENT_811469-->Edit: I also read that how some of these fixes that you put into your coolant system internally could possibly clog up heater cores, pumps, and radiators if you don't follow the directions to the letter. I think that I am going to go with JB Weld on the outside first, and if that doesn't work, use the seal up or the K&W.
This discussion of JB Weld, and the cracked block has it's own thread now:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2618358
<!--IBF.ATTACHMENT_811469-->Edit: I also read that how some of these fixes that you put into your coolant system internally could possibly clog up heater cores, pumps, and radiators if you don't follow the directions to the letter. I think that I am going to go with JB Weld on the outside first, and if that doesn't work, use the seal up or the K&W.
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This is a trip!!
Read and be amused: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2620852#post2620852
Read and be amused: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2620852#post2620852
I just finished putting my car back together again for the 2nd time this week. I am tired. Ended up using Thermostat Housing/Water Pump Permatex Gasket Maker. I will go pick up the new gasket from the dealer probably Friday (so I will have a backup), as there is only one in the metroplex right now.
She lives again!!! Last night, I put in coolant. Brian and Rashied showed up and helped me check for leaks. There were a couple from a hoseclamp not being tight enought, and the drain plug on the AWR Radiator wasn't tight enough. Fixed those. The car idles soooooo smooth now. No stalling, or RPM drops any longer!!!
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Too Late...
Here are my new Hi-Temp Teflon Steel-Braided Lines. The lines are 3/8 inside diameter (ID). I ordered the Banjo Barbs from ATPTURBO (Banjo Fittings), and then went to Hose-Fast in Garland to have them make the lines by crimping in the barbs. The lines were $8 per foot. They also crimped some 3/8 in hose barbs at the ends so that I could connect rubber hoses to them, far away from the heat of the manifold. Hi-Temp teflon is overkill, but I still remember having to replace rubber lines on my old turbo kit periodically when they couldn't take the heat. Remember, the barbs have to be crimped on, if you don't want any leaks. You should be able to go to any hydraulic hose shop to get this done:
Here are my new Hi-Temp Teflon Steel-Braided Lines. The lines are 3/8 inside diameter (ID). I ordered the Banjo Barbs from ATPTURBO (Banjo Fittings), and then went to Hose-Fast in Garland to have them make the lines by crimping in the barbs. The lines were $8 per foot. They also crimped some 3/8 in hose barbs at the ends so that I could connect rubber hoses to them, far away from the heat of the manifold. Hi-Temp teflon is overkill, but I still remember having to replace rubber lines on my old turbo kit periodically when they couldn't take the heat. Remember, the barbs have to be crimped on, if you don't want any leaks. You should be able to go to any hydraulic hose shop to get this done:
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