My 2002.5 P5 AwesomeSauce build thread
- Thread starter MeAndMyPenguin
- Start date
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
That video clip of the "2-step" style limiter gave me goosebumps...
Sounds great!!
Sounds great!!
MeAndMyPenguin
Member
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- 2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5
I dont think I would want to take on that project if the shop messed up with the install. Would be hard/time consuming to get it wired correctly.
lol, I still watch the vid like 3 times! Cant get over the way it sounds!
MeAndMyPenguin
Member
- :
- 2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5
Okay, really weird issue is happening now.... Did a 2nd-3rd gear pull after work the other day and now car does not want to idle lower than 3000 rpm. Changed the IACV/TPS/throttle body and idle went down to 2700 now. Vacuum still reads strong at -21. Does not having the stock coolant temp sensor plugged in have something to do with this?
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Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
Jackie chan
Member
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- Pro5
Get everything sorted out?
MeAndMyPenguin
Member
- :
- 2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5
Yea, ended up being the plug that I used to delete the VCTS came out with the increased boost. Then starter went out after I fixed that. Then coil pack went out which took me 3 days to figure out casue of no CEL. Then water pump.
And now I'm having an issue with the car warming up. Seems like the thermostat is stuck open allowing coolant to constantly flow but I changed the thermostat and the same thing still happens. Head gasket checked out fine so that's not the issue. Only other thing is the mishimoto radiator cap as my coolant overflow tank was full and spitting out coolant. I also find dried up coolant next to radiator fill neck when driving around.
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hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Preferio had a problem with a mishimoto rad cap leaking on his MSP.
MeAndMyPenguin
Member
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- 2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5
I just bent the tabs on the radiator cap so it holds tighter to the fill neck. No more leaking from the cap but car still has issues warming up. Going to superflush the cooling system and see if that helps.
Just tested the new thermostat and it's working properly. Opens around 180 and fully closes under 180.
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Just tested the new thermostat and it's working properly. Opens around 180 and fully closes under 180.
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Jackie chan
Member
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- Pro5
Don't know if you got the squirters out yet, but I just removed my second set. Found the easiest method ever.
Use a hammer and chisel to cut off the nozzles, takes only a few light taps, put a 16mm socket on all the way down. A breaker bar works best because there is no slack or play. Turn the breaker bar with one hand, and pull up on the extention, at the same time with the other hand. The friction between the socket and the squirter while turning is enough to pull them out. Takes like 20 seconds each!
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MeAndMyPenguin
Member
- :
- 2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5
I let the machine shop handle the squirters. Waiting for them to call me back with the good news! lol.
Ordered inner fenders and installed them. Had to disassemble the front end so I don't scratch anything. Just need to get the two engine bay splash guards or whatever they're called.
I just love the look of the front bumper cover man! Think it looks mean!
While I had the front end apart, went ahead and deleted PS and AC. Lines were just looped for now (plan on depowering the rack when engine comes out). So much space gained and weight lost. Much cleaner looking. Just need to remove the A/C lines going into the cabin and make a block off plate. Steering is tough lol, need to get used to it.
Also got some EDM tail lights. Not JDM unfortunately. I only have 3 bulbs/lights and not 4. The EDM lights have the slot for the 4th light but I need to drill it out and fit a bulb holder. Already have the bulb holders, now just need time to work on it.
Ordered inner fenders and installed them. Had to disassemble the front end so I don't scratch anything. Just need to get the two engine bay splash guards or whatever they're called.
I just love the look of the front bumper cover man! Think it looks mean!
While I had the front end apart, went ahead and deleted PS and AC. Lines were just looped for now (plan on depowering the rack when engine comes out). So much space gained and weight lost. Much cleaner looking. Just need to remove the A/C lines going into the cabin and make a block off plate. Steering is tough lol, need to get used to it.
Also got some EDM tail lights. Not JDM unfortunately. I only have 3 bulbs/lights and not 4. The EDM lights have the slot for the 4th light but I need to drill it out and fit a bulb holder. Already have the bulb holders, now just need time to work on it.
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
- :
- 2003 MSP
Also got some EDM tail lights. Not JDM unfortunately. I only have 3 bulbs/lights and not 4. The EDM lights have the slot for the 4th light but I need to drill it out and fit a bulb holder. Already have the bulb holders, now just need time to work on it.
Perfect opportunity to fit stop/tail sockets down the bottom, I carefully used a small holesaw then filed the tab slots, the tab offset is slightly different for the stop/tail sockets but not drastically.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
If Florida is anything like Texas I don't know how you could delete the AC altogether, its too damn hot!
Your coolant overflow line needs to be at the bottom of the tank so coolant can flow back and forth into the radiator when the car warms up and cools off. At the top like it is not coolant will flow into the tank and can't flow back into the rad when the car is off.
Your coolant overflow line needs to be at the bottom of the tank so coolant can flow back and forth into the radiator when the car warms up and cools off. At the top like it is not coolant will flow into the tank and can't flow back into the rad when the car is off.
MeAndMyPenguin
Member
- :
- 2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5
Definitely sucks that I had to delete AC but it wouldn't work with the Haltech ecu. Had to spend another $350 for an add-on for the ECU to get AC working.
Regarding the overflow tank, I have a line in the top port that goes to the bottom of the tank so coolant can get sucked back into the radiator.
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Regarding the overflow tank, I have a line in the top port that goes to the bottom of the tank so coolant can get sucked back into the radiator.
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ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
- :
- 2003 MSP
Why would you have to spend anything to leave the stock ecu regulating the alternator and A/C?
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MeAndMyPenguin
Member
- :
- 2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5
I switched to Hall effect cam and crank sensors and that requires a 626 alternator which is internally regulated. Stock ECU can't control AC or PS anymore without stock alternator/cam and crank.
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Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
- :
- 2003 MSP
MeAndMyPenguin
Member
- :
- 2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5
Finally drilled and tapped the upper coolant housing for the stock temp sensor. Dont mind all the wires on the bottom. Gonna fix all that soon.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
A lot of nice work and attention to detail in your build, it looks awesome.
MeAndMyPenguin
Member
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- 2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5
Thanks! I try me best with the small details!
