MT Help: Trouble changing gears, stiff shifter

[GMalatrasi]

I've been trying to troubleshoot the issue for a couple weeks now.

Symptoms:
After car is warm or I've been riving for 15-20 mins, the shifter gets more and more difficult to move. It becomes difficult to put into a gear, to get out of a gear, and even herder to move the lever laterally from the (1,2) position to the (3,4) position and vice-versa.

Attempted Fixes:
1) Disassembling and inspecting shifter for wear.
- Everything was like new, no wear marks, no rust, nothing to indicate a problem.
- Lubed everything thoroughly and put it back together.
- Issue persisted

2) Inspect shifter linkage under car. (Both at the shifter and the tranny ends).
- Again everything looked fine, no unusual wear or rust.
- Again sprayed everything with penetrating, waterproof lube.
- Issue persisted

3) Check for missing exhaust heat shields that might be overheating the links and/or bushings.
- No shields missing or broken or misplaced.

4) ...? Nothing left to try outside of the transmission itself.

Anyone have any ideas?
Anyone experienced a similar issue?

Reminder: it only happens after driving for a bit and car is warm.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Same thing used to happen on my car. You need to change the bushings. The stock ones really don't last long, see the following for more information: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5341666&postcount=3

 

[GMalatrasi]

Same thing used to happen on my car. You need to change the bushings. The stock ones really don't last long, see the following for more information: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5341666&postcount=3

And it only happened after driving for a bit?
I ruled out the bushings cause it doesn't have any issues when i first start driving.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

And it only happened after driving for a bit?
I ruled out the bushings cause it doesn't have any issues when i first start driving.

I had the *exact* same problem. My theory: the shifter is located right above the exhaust so if your bushings are crap, with heat they'll just get gummy and cause more friction.

At least replace the hardware at the base of the shifter (bolt and bushings), and lube it up well with some high-temperature grease.

 

[Stickman]

I had the same problem; was worried that I may need a new tranny, clutch.
It ended up being the rear linkage bushing. Visually looked fine. Lubing didn't help.
There is a bolt that goes through the bushing. Tranny shop worked on it for quite a while to free it up. Once freed, it shifts like a new car, super easy.
Worth checking out, 1st.
Good luck.

 

[StealthWyvern]

I had the same problem; was worried that I may need a new tranny, clutch.
It ended up being the rear linkage bushing. Visually looked fine. Lubing didn't help.
There is a bolt that goes through the bushing. Tranny shop worked on it for quite a while to free it up. Once freed, it shifts like a new car, super easy.
Worth checking out, 1st.
Good luck.

Which is the rear linkage bushing on this thing?

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=168665&d=1278334281

 

[808mazdap5]

i dont even have the heat shield above my exhaust anymore. been gone for about 6 months now and i havent had any issues what so ever

 

[Stickman]

As to which is rear bushing...
Linkage runs from trans back to where it connects to under floor part of shifter, right near heat shield, if you had one. At that point, it looks like a simple u joint. If I remember correctly, a bolt goes through a small cylinder shaped nylon bushing that holds it all together.
They sprayed a lot of "liquid wrench" "anti sieze" whatever, and wrenched on it until bolt would rotate freely(took a lot of effort). 6 months later all is fine, never did need to replace the bushing.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Which is the rear linkage bushing on this thing?

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=168665&d=1278334281

#2 on the diagram. You should change the bushings and bolts on both ends of the "Change Control Rod". As Stickman said, the ones that make the greatest difference are the ones under the shifter.

 

[GMalatrasi]

Thanks guys... I'll try that.

 

[RABID_MP5]

Hey where's the best sources for OEM and improved shifter bushings? I can't seem to find on Amazon, eBay, Rock Auto, Montgomery Mazda etc. Guess a part # would help for OEM too.

 

[Ride92]

Hey where's the best sources for OEM and improved shifter bushings? I can't seem to find on Amazon, eBay, Rock Auto, Montgomery Mazda etc. Guess a part # would help for OEM too.

CorkSport Bronze-oil shifter bushings are the best money can buy. Self lubricating Bronze material that has oil particles suspended in the material. They're like 30 bucks or something like that. Helped my shifter imensely. www.corksport.com

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Hey where's the best sources for OEM and improved shifter bushings? I can't seem to find on Amazon, eBay, Rock Auto, Montgomery Mazda etc. Guess a part # would help for OEM too.

Part number is B001-46-062, cost me $3.85 each from a Mazda dealer near Montreal.

EDIT: I forgot to include the part number for the bolt, it's B001-46-134 (the one under the shifter). The other bolt (near the transaxle) is GA2A-46-133.

This is what you'd have to order:

• 1x B001-46-134 - Bolt, under shifter
• 1x GA2A-46-133 - Bolt, near transaxle
• 4x B001-46-062 - Bushing

 

[Ride92]

Part number is B001-46-062, cost me $3.85 each from a Mazda dealer near Montreal.

EDIT: I forgot to include the part number for the bolt, it's B001-46-134 (the one under the shifter). The other bolt (near the transaxle) is GA2A-46-133.

This is what you'd have to order:

• 1x B001-46-134 - Bolt, under shifter
• 1x GA2A-46-133 - Bolt, near transaxle
• 4x B001-46-062 - Bushing

IMHO your wasting your money on the crappy stock plastic bushings.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

IMHO your wasting your money on the crappy stock plastic bushings.

I haven't tried any aftermarket bushings, but new stockers made a noticeable difference for me. For the price, you can't go wrong.

 

[RABID_MP5]

Thanks. Do those bolts include nuts and any needed lockwashers? Or I guess you'd wanna Lock-Tite them anyway?

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Thanks. Do those bolts include nuts and any needed lockwashers? Or I guess you'd wanna Lock-Tite them anyway?

The bolts don't include nuts, but you can re-use the old ones and there are no washers. You should probably lock-tite it.

 

[RABID_MP5]

It's coming back to me - I messed with the linkage below the shifter a few years ago when it was rusty and bound up tight to move in and out of gear (i.e. when I first got the car). I wanna say I lubed it up and spread the U-bracket apart slightly to get it moving. But I didn't want to tighten the bolt too much since it could bind again. So I made it kinda tight and put on some thread lock to keep the nut there.

Does all this make sense? That you can't go too tight even on a new bolt (and bushings) or it will bind? As I visualize it, if the bushings touch you can probably torque it, but not if there is a gap between them.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

It's coming back to me - I messed with the linkage below the shifter a few years ago when it was rusty and bound up tight to move in and out of gear (i.e. when I first got the car). I wanna say I lubed it up and spread the U-bracket apart slightly to get it moving. But I didn't want to tighten the bolt too much since it could bind again. So I made it kinda tight and put on some thread lock to keep the nut there.

Does all this make sense? That you can't go too tight even on a new bolt (and bushings) or it will bind? As I visualize it, if the bushings touch you can probably torque it, but not if there is a gap between them.

I don't think there should be a gap, you just tighten till you reach the end of the threads on the bolt (the service manual says to tighten to 12-16 ft lbs). This picture of the bolt might jog your memory

As for lube, I'd recommend something that can handle high-ish temperature, like brake lube. But if you don't have that I'm sure traditional white lithium grease will do (that's what I had used).

 

[Ride92]

I don't think there should be a gap, you just tighten till you reach the end of the threads on the bolt (the service manual says to tighten to 12-16 ft lbs). This picture of the bolt might jog your memory

As for lube, I'd recommend something that can handle high-ish temperature, like brake lube. But if you don't have that I'm sure traditional white lithium grease will do (that's what I had used).

If you get the bushings that are pictured you will not need any lube, as they are made out of bronze-oil, a self-lubricating material that has oil particals suspended in the metal.