So over the last few weeks (or way longer) there have been tons of new threads pop up that all seem to have the same issues/solutions so I thought this little check list up to help people before posting the same thread over and over again....
This checklist should work in conjunction with the MSP Owners guide stickied at the top
Everyone please propose additions/modification to this as you see fit it and I will add them in, as I have not seen everything by any means and the more info the better
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1. Wastegate Actuator (WGA)
This is like the #1 cause of problems with the MSP.
Symptoms
Diagnosis
Solution
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2. Cracked Vacuum Lines
Thanks to high heat/low cold the the vac lines eventually dry up and break
Symptoms
Diagnosis
The problem with a vac leak is its often not easy to find but the first places to check should be the WGA/BPV line as its right next to the motor and gets a lot of heat
Ways to find a leak
Solution
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3. Loose/Disconnected Coupler
Much the same as a vac leak but less frequent, usually more violent (fuel cut)
Symptoms
Diagnosis
Solution
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4. Dirty/ Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
With Aftermarket Intakes (even the stocker) the MAF will get dirty and cause the ECU it mis-read the amount of air getting dumpped into the cylinders
Symptoms
Diagnosis
Solution
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5. Exhaust Leak
The stock log style Exhaust manifold is known after some abuse
Symptoms
Diagnosis
Solution
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6. Clogged Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
Due to the rich stock tune of the MSP the EGR valve gets clogged with carbon deposits very easily
Symptoms
Diagnosis
Solution
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7. ABS Fault Codes
The MSP is equipped with with a 4 wheel DEPENDENT Anti-lock Brake System (this means that if there is a problem in one wheel they all react, either by disabling the ABS or enabling for braking). there have been a bunch of 'My ABS light came on and I don't know why' threads that all have the same answers in them so here is a summary
To answer peoples questions of what happens when the ABS light is on, it means that the ABS system has faulted and ABS is now disabled, your breaks will continue to operate normally but should they lock up your ABS will not save your ass this time. So its important to fix these issues (especially in winter)
Symptoms
Diagnosis
*Note if you plan on re-referencing the shop manual just download the page to conserve the hosts bandwidth
Solution
This checklist should work in conjunction with the MSP Owners guide stickied at the top
Everyone please propose additions/modification to this as you see fit it and I will add them in, as I have not seen everything by any means and the more info the better
<hr />
1. Wastegate Actuator (WGA)
This is like the #1 cause of problems with the MSP.
Symptoms
- Overboosting/Boost Spiking
- Poor Idle
Diagnosis
- Pull Off vac line that comes off the Intake Manifold (follow the Bypass Valve vac line to a tee in the line)
- 2. Blow into the vac line that goes to the WGA
- 3. If you can push air into the line the WGA is finished
Solution
- Replace the WGA with the Aftermarket WGA of your choic (APT, Forge, etc...)
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2. Cracked Vacuum Lines
Thanks to high heat/low cold the the vac lines eventually dry up and break
Symptoms
- Poor Idle
- Low Boost Generated
- Stalling/Sputtering
- Fuel Cut
- Misc CEL's (certain codes, I don't know exactly what they are)
Diagnosis
- Get a boost gauge (chair)/ go to a mechanic and to a pressure test
- If reading is below the expected reading in This Link below you have a leak
The problem with a vac leak is its often not easy to find but the first places to check should be the WGA/BPV line as its right next to the motor and gets a lot of heat
Ways to find a leak
- Take your car to a mechanic and have a them use a vac tester
- Soapy water on vac lines with someone reving the car
- Smoke test the vac lines (not sure how though)
Solution
- Replace vac line (I would suggest you replace all vac lines with silicone lines to prevent this problem from re-occurring)
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3. Loose/Disconnected Coupler
Much the same as a vac leak but less frequent, usually more violent (fuel cut)
Symptoms
- Poor Idle
- Low Boost Generated
- Stalling/Sputtering
- Fuel Cut
Diagnosis
- Check all couplers in all locations, if coupler is loose/popped off, put the pipe back in and tighten it down
- Check couplers for small tears/holes replace as needed
- Check pipeing for cracks/fractures in pipes (very possible with stock hot pipe)
Solution
- If the coupler is broken replace as needed
- If the coupler constantly poppes off get t-bolt clamps to try and hold it better
- Use hairspray on the ends of the pipes when using silicone couplers (idea provided by Rush with Vac lines)
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4. Dirty/ Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
With Aftermarket Intakes (even the stocker) the MAF will get dirty and cause the ECU it mis-read the amount of air getting dumpped into the cylinders
Symptoms
- Poor Idle
- CEL: Lean A/F in Cylinder
- Sputtering
- Fuel Cut
Diagnosis
- Pull off the MAF
- Check sensor is still in place and undamaged
- Check for visible signs of dirt
- Follow wires from harness and check for splits/breaks
Solution
- Get some MAF cleaner and give it a little cleanup (How-to: Click)
- If MAF is damaged, replace. (check FS sections before going to dealer, theres always one floating around)
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5. Exhaust Leak
The stock log style Exhaust manifold is known after some abuse
Symptoms
- Whistling noise during boost
- Underboosting
- Reference: view this video, clip shows a MSP with an exhaust leak
Diagnosis
- Pull off the heatshield (its easiest to remove the primary 02 sensor first)
- Check for carbon deposits
- Visually inspect for hairline cracks along the runners
- Get a mechanics mirror and check the underside of the manifold
- Check along the downpipe and mid pipe for carbon scoring if the manifold is alright
Solution
- Pull off the manifold and get it welded up
- Buy a new manifold, I would suggest getting an after market one as the design of the stock manifold isn't all that good
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6. Clogged Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
Due to the rich stock tune of the MSP the EGR valve gets clogged with carbon deposits very easily
Symptoms
- Poor idle
- Stalling
- CEL: EGR valve failure
Diagnosis
- at idle rev the engine up to 3000 RPM and let it fall rapidly
- if the car is stock and the car sputters/stalls, check the EGR
Solution
- Clean EGR, (How-to: Click)
- Sometimes the valve is infact damaged and needs to be replaced
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7. ABS Fault Codes
The MSP is equipped with with a 4 wheel DEPENDENT Anti-lock Brake System (this means that if there is a problem in one wheel they all react, either by disabling the ABS or enabling for braking). there have been a bunch of 'My ABS light came on and I don't know why' threads that all have the same answers in them so here is a summary
To answer peoples questions of what happens when the ABS light is on, it means that the ABS system has faulted and ABS is now disabled, your breaks will continue to operate normally but should they lock up your ABS will not save your ass this time. So its important to fix these issues (especially in winter)
Symptoms
- ABS Light on in dash
- Parking brake lit when parking brake not engaged
Diagnosis
- Check Brake fluid level
- Check Brake pad wear
- Check Brake pad wear delta between the front and back (meaning the wear difference between front and back)
- Get ABS codes read (this is not the same as CEL code reading with an OBD-II reader)
- If you can't get access to a code reader it can be done manually by grounding the proper pin in the diagnostic connector read the section on in the shop manual for code descriptions Click
*Note if you plan on re-referencing the shop manual just download the page to conserve the hosts bandwidth
Solution
- Top up the brake fluid if low
- If the pads are worn replace them, in the case that they are not at the same wear level you might want to check you the calipers sliders and piston to make sure they are not seized or in the process of doing so
- More often than not the ABS/Speed sensor is either dirty or faulty, once you have the codes to confirm which sensor is the culprit, go after it (again consult the shop manual for info)
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