I have a set of MS3 sways (front and rear) that i bought to upgrade my 3 before i got the 5. I was goign to get rid of them but im getting the itch to do something to the 5, so im looking to see what i would need to install the sways on the 5. ive heard endlinks are needed but not sure if both front and rear are needed or not. I also have a set of MS3 springs, does anyone have pics of a 5 on MS3 springs, ive read about the sagging rear but want to actually see how it would look and if its worth it to install them or just get rid of them. , any help is appreciated for these two Thank you
MS3 sways/springs on a 5
- Thread starter d-machine
- Start date
mazdaspeed41
Member
Swaybars, I think are a direct swap.
Springs are also a direct swap, but I wouldn't do it. I used MS3 springs on our Mazda5, and it looked good for a year or so. Then the rear sagged waay too much and any loads (even my 7 year old kids) became too much bottoming out on every bump.
MS3 springs, sell em.
MS3 sways, your call, but I think they work and would increase performance/stability.
michael.
Springs are also a direct swap, but I wouldn't do it. I used MS3 springs on our Mazda5, and it looked good for a year or so. Then the rear sagged waay too much and any loads (even my 7 year old kids) became too much bottoming out on every bump.
MS3 springs, sell em.
MS3 sways, your call, but I think they work and would increase performance/stability.
michael.
So what springs would you recommend for someone who is bottoming out on every bump w/6yo stock springs? OK, the RR is fine, just the LR, but I might as well upgrade if I have to swap out.
sweet thank you... i though i had seen somewhere either here or another forum that one of the sways( cant remember if front or rear) needed to have the MS3 endlinks swapped also, but i wanted to try the rear first and see how it felt, but thank you for the info. Ive gotta see if i can get the swap done this weekend
foxhound1979
Member
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- Mazda 5 GS
i wanted to swap springs too for some speed 3, but if the rear is going to sag, i guess i gotta find another way to lower it a bit !
but the idea for the sways i'll keep in mind !
but the idea for the sways i'll keep in mind !
Only two 5-specific aftermarket springs I've seen thus far are from H&R or SR Motorsports. H&R lists the drops as 1.3/1.4, front/rear respectively and SR says, "Lowers your 5 approx. 1 inch." I haven't contacted them yet for further details. I would prefer to be on the lesser side of 1" (i.e. keep ride height HIGHER). I really don't want to drop over an inch. Just about an 3/4 to 1 inch would be OK by me. Further, I'm unsure of springs rates for either. On the one hand I'd want increased performance, on the other it's still a microvan and shouldn't have trouble carrying people and/or cargo!
foxhound1979
Member
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- Mazda 5 GS
i'm looking for about the same drop, 1 inch at most.
the ones i can find from SR are listed at 300$ on their website
Those are the ones. I want to ride with the RB / JBR bars for a bit and see if those make me happy. Depending on how happy I may get serious about springs in a month or so (both bars are coming early this week). Mostly I want stiffer springs because I want the Bilstein HDs (already blew one OEM rear shock so far) and I'm not sure how well the stock springs would do with the HDs. My goal is definitely not height reduction!
Not too sure what size the studs are on your rear bar end links. When I swapped rear bar I had to have bushings made up (I was too cheap to get new endlinks) because the studs on a MZ3 are 10mm and MS3 studs are 12mm. afaik the front studs are the same, MZ3 and MS3 (10mm). I also installed 60k speed 3 springs rear dropped about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I am not sure what the difference is in vehicle weights though so your results may be different.. The front stayed the same height. I have not done the front bar swap since the engine cradle has to be dropped in order to do the change. I hope this helps, good luck.
The rear of the 5 is heavier *and* overhangs farther past the axle since the wheelbases are the same between the 3 and 5. Add in a tendency to load more weight in the rear - be it passengers or cargo - and to me the MS3 rear springs become less appealing than aftermarket options designed for the 5 (SR, H&R...)
so what you are saying is that the rear bar isnt a direct swap as the holes are larger on the ms3 bar? im glad i didnt try it that weekend, thank you rain lol
For how much money are people sourcing the MS3 bars? James Barone Racing sells their rear bar for $195 shipped (US contiguous). Other brands aren't too far off from that price if you had a brand preference (I don't). So unless you're getting what I assume is a used part for $100 or less (I can't imagine a new Mazda factory MS3 bar is less than $200...?), get a stronger bar that's also adjustable and comes with the right holes. I'm actually thinking of moving mine to the stiffest setting which is nearly twice as stiff as the factory MS3 bar to match when I do the front bar. (I'm in the middle setting with stock bar up front right now. Doing brakes, intake res removal and front bar this Saturday - busy.) I don't think I'd find a factory MS3 bar terribly satisfying unless someone literally handed me one in half-decent shape and said "take it" :|
As always YMMV.
As always YMMV.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Used MS3 RSB range from $50-$100, new can be found for about $150 but no bushing/bracket (good thing since you prob want the new Prothane bushing/greaseable bracket -you have no other choice at the momemnt). If you can get a used MS3 bar (+bushing, +bracket) for $50, it would be a worthwhile cheap upgrade. Certainly easy enough to DIY. I do agree the JBR bars look very nice for the price if you want to buy new. I got both front and rear MS3 bars for practically "take it" but like you am not sure if they'll really satisfy me.
Have you come across Mz3 owner reviews on JBR bar? On the stiffest setting (901 lbs/in) with OEM Mz3 FSB, it can be prone to lift-off oversteer (snap oversteer) so be cautions of wet road condition. Granted out front bar is also thicker than the Mz3 bar but smaller than the MS3 bar. I believe another Mz5 owner with the JBR also mentioned the same and got a beefier FSB to offset this. The JBR's softest setting (593 lbs/in) is stiffer than the stock MS3 bar (479 lbs/in)! I can't find specs for the stock Mz5 bar but the Mz3 is 230 lbs./in. The Mz5 bar falls right about in the middle in terms of thickness so I would safely assume stiffness probably falls about in the middle as well (just a guess). I think using a new bushing with the used bar is just as important vs using old and potentially worn/deformed OE bushings (also know for squeaks like ours).
http://www.mazda3 forums.com/index.php?topic=187081.0
For anyone else interested in pursuing the MS3 bar, see below and compare part numbers yourself to see what you need. If you can't figure it out, you should not be doing this yourself.
2008 Mazda3 / Mazdaspeed3 (note the W/ TURBO):
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...y_TrimLevel=0&ukey_modelRange=0&searchString=
2008 Mazda5:
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...y_TrimLevel=0&ukey_modelRange=0&searchString=
^^ anyone notice they all use the same end links but are oriented differently (Mz3/MS3 facing INWARD, Mz5 facing OUTWARD)!? I wonder why?..
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The 5 should be a little less likely to rotate on you, but once it does it should want to continue more so than the 3. Having said that I'm not switching the rear end to the stiffest setting until I put the front bar on and test them together. It's easy enough to adjust and it's about time to regrease it after the initial green period so I have wedge myself back there anyway. I did push it when the roads were wet the other day and with stock front and JBR at the middle setting in the rear it maintained neutral behavior, leaning a smidge towards understeer. I'd expect the full setting with stock front to bring it around.
You mention the new bushings: my first complaint (i.e. so far since I haven't put it on yet) about the Racing Beat front bar is that the bushings have no zerk. For the money paid (about $50 more than the JBR) and for how much a zerk and a drill bit used 1000 times should cost, it seems silly not to have come with it. I have to hit NAPA for some caliper bushings and MTX juice so I may just pick up two of them and DIY-it. It wouldn't be difficult to groove a shallow channel in the poly and drill a hole in the bracket, just annoying that they didn't do it for me.
I'd read the user's post about feeling the "need" to have both a front and rear on the 5. I actually thought it was you, Silent! Whoever it was, I took it to heart ordering both at the same time - I figured it couldn't hurt.
Finally, I looked at those schematics and I see what you mean about the end links. Mine were pointing inboard as the 3's indicate, though, so maybe it was installer's preference on the line
You mention the new bushings: my first complaint (i.e. so far since I haven't put it on yet) about the Racing Beat front bar is that the bushings have no zerk. For the money paid (about $50 more than the JBR) and for how much a zerk and a drill bit used 1000 times should cost, it seems silly not to have come with it. I have to hit NAPA for some caliper bushings and MTX juice so I may just pick up two of them and DIY-it. It wouldn't be difficult to groove a shallow channel in the poly and drill a hole in the bracket, just annoying that they didn't do it for me.
I'd read the user's post about feeling the "need" to have both a front and rear on the 5. I actually thought it was you, Silent! Whoever it was, I took it to heart ordering both at the same time - I figured it couldn't hurt.
Finally, I looked at those schematics and I see what you mean about the end links. Mine were pointing inboard as the 3's indicate, though, so maybe it was installer's preference on the line
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Not me but I think we are referring to the same person! I believe this reviewer is (or was) a Miata owner (I’m bias to their opinions ;p).
Does the JBR RSB come with greasable brackets? The RB bar should have came with zerks since it is pricey. I typically don’t like Racing Beat products. I think this whole debate over greasable vs non-greasable is a little overblown but it is always nice to have flexibility. A quality bushing/bracket should endure a while bit. I don’t think anyone put their car under extreme tracking conditions. Pure speculation here, but I think the Mazda OEM bushings design/quality is just inferior and regreasing it is a necessary band aid.
Btw, why do you need caliper bushings and may I recommend you to try Ford Motorcraft synthetic MTX fluid. This is my first time using it and I LOVE it. Don’t just take my word on it, Google on it in general.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123809183-Finally-got-to-replacing-my-MTX-fluid.
Does the JBR RSB come with greasable brackets? The RB bar should have came with zerks since it is pricey. I typically don’t like Racing Beat products. I think this whole debate over greasable vs non-greasable is a little overblown but it is always nice to have flexibility. A quality bushing/bracket should endure a while bit. I don’t think anyone put their car under extreme tracking conditions. Pure speculation here, but I think the Mazda OEM bushings design/quality is just inferior and regreasing it is a necessary band aid.
Btw, why do you need caliper bushings and may I recommend you to try Ford Motorcraft synthetic MTX fluid. This is my first time using it and I LOVE it. Don’t just take my word on it, Google on it in general.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123809183-Finally-got-to-replacing-my-MTX-fluid.
