MS3 Catch Can - recommendations wanted

That is very interesting, I have never thought or seen that article. However with so many MS3's out on the road and it's engineered by Mazda Japan, I would think they would have put some kind of "safety" to keep that from happening. Now from my experience with Turbo charged cars, twin or single, I have NEVER run a catch can with any of the vehicles and never had any issues, and my Stealth TT was running 460 awhp. Save your money, Just my 2 cents.
 
Well it is amazing how much havoc a part that costs about .10 cents to manufacture (PCV valve) plays on some motors. Some cars get good valves and others don't. It's not uncommon for motors with forced induction having PCV problems. I think that the catch can is above and beyond what is actually needed. For about $125, it could be cheap insurance on lots of problems down the line, especially with direct injection (carbon deposits on the intake valves), but I think the real problem here is the PCV system, which is why Cobb recommends installing an additional valve.
 
I believe the PCV issues that Cobb is recommending a catch can for come with the additional boost their maps bring ... example, with my stage 2 map I'm hitting 19 and taper down to 15 by redline. Compare that to stock #'s of 16 and 10 respectively and you can see the stock pcv system may not be enough.
 
Hmmm if it's such a big deal according to cobb should just include it with the purchase of their AP units. Then again there is a ton of members with MBCs running 19 psi for 40k miles with no ill effects??? Hmmm not even corksport nor Cp-e talks about it, that makes me wonder.
 
That is my car in the write up and the Greddy CC that I happened to have. It is NOT the best design. Most CC's on the market are fully open w/o any kind of separation chambers or baffling. Cobb has a CC in development that will have all of the above and it will include the brackets, hose and additional PCV valve.
 
spdjnke said:
Hmmm if it's such a big deal according to cobb should just include it with the purchase of their AP units. Then again there is a ton of members with MBCs running 19 psi for 40k miles with no ill effects??? Hmmm not even corksport nor Cp-e talks about it, that makes me wonder.
Click to expand...

Nobody has perfect knowledge. But Cobb has been competing with their car and they seem to come up with items as issues come up. Example one for me was the lighter shift weight. They found that the momentum of the larger stock weight was creating shifting problems under hard driving. I imagine they've also seen evidence that the unburnt fuel and oil are causing excessive engine cylinder temp increases when the car is being run hard. Even if it only has an occasional or marginal effect, it could be important with an engine that has known heat-induced turbo issues like ours does.
 
catch cans:

1) catch the blow-by from the valve cover, which is generally sent thru the intake to be burned off in the engine - environmentally friendly, but often contains water (LOTS of water in cold weather) and oil (not LOTS, if you have lots then it's time for a rebuild); the oil/water fouls the intake charge.
2) can be used to 'catch' oil and coolant that cars sometimes burp up, which is a must for track situations.

catch cans are a "nice to have" IMHO. i had one on my old car and found that it hardly caught any oil, which i would relate to an engine in great shape (nearly brand-new compression at 80k miles). it DID catch a lot of water in the winter.

the PCV addition certainly seems like a useful upgrade, but the catch can not so much. you can buy a little air compressor filter (Husky, at Home Depot Performance) that will do the same thing as a catch can - plumb it into the appropriate piping, and, if you think it's catching all kinds of crap, then put a real one in.

and, if you do want a CC, then Saikou Michi is THE BEST. i ordered it and 'Mr. Saikou' had it fabricated and at my door within 5 days, IIRC.
 
I have a question about installing a catch can. In the catch can install posted in the how to section (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123711318), it is noted that the hose coming from the crank case should be routed above the catch can so the can is the lowest point. Looking at the Cobb instructions, this doesn't seem to matter. They route both hoses in the same place which have points lower than the can. I know the system is in vacuum, but will fluids get caught on the lowest point of the hose coming from the crankcase shown in the Cobb installation?
 
if the PCV system and engine are functioning properly, the mounting point should not be of concern - the pressures in the system will far outweight gravity.

that said, if there are vapors remaining upon engine shutdown and/or the engine is producing a lot of crankcase blowby, fluids could possibly collect.

i would recommend mounting the CC such that it is lower than the inlet and discharge from the engine itself, but the tubing shouldn't be as much of a concern. additionally, make sure you mount it such that it can be easily emptied of the stuff it collects.
 
So since Cobbs installation has the catch can lower than the crankcase ventilation, they are good to go? No need to worry about routing the Hose so closely to the belts then.

Thanks for the info.
 
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