Mazda engine oil

[MikeM.]

If one quart in 2000 miles is normal

It's not normal. Normal is no significant drop in oil level between services.

That's a scary thought, since the average person is not going to be checking the oil on their own.

Really? The average person doesn't ever check their oil level on there own? That's news to me.

All my friends and relatives always check oil levels periodically when they acquire a car (new or used) to establish a base line. I thought this was common sense. Once I've established the engine is not consuming significant amounts I may not check it again except at each service to verify things haven't changed.

 

[TreyP]

It's not normal. Normal is no significant drop in oil level between services.

I agree, that was the point. And that is also why the average person doesn't check their own oil. That is the mechanics job, not the driver. And yes I realize how silly that sounds to some people, but then again, I was a mechanic for 10 years and the level of disengagement between owner and car was sometimes bordering on alarming.

I also believe that the people who frequent enthusiast forums such as this one would not be considered 'the average car owner'.

 

[MikeM.]

And that is also why the average person doesn't check their own oil. That is the mechanics job, not the driver.

I disagree that it is not the owner's responsibility to insure oil levels are satisfactory.

Even the CX-5 owner's manual has a section called "Owner Maintenance Precautions" on page 6-16 (2013 manual) that says oil level should be checked when refueling. This has been standard recommended procedure since I first started driving over 30 years ago and, while I don't feel it's necessary to do at every fill-up if your car has demonstrated steady oil levels, I have never heard anything that removed the responsibility of insuring adequate oil from the driver.

That's why the Owner's Manual has detailed instructions how to check oil levels but not, for example, how to replace spark plugs or tension belts.

 

[V8toilet]

Mike is right but the reality is a lot of people do not check their own oil. Many don't know how or couldn't be bothered. When I met my wife she drove a Volkswagen Jetta that consumed about 1 quart every 2000 miles and she would drive it until the oil light came on unless I or her brothers checked it. She thought it was ok to do this up until I told her it wasn't. Same thing just happened with a co-worker of mine.

 

[zerosiah]

I don't seem to be able to find Castrol 0w-20, recommended my Mazda owner's manual.

Advance Auto Parts is the only retailer I have found to stock it (Checked Napa, Oreillys, Autozone, Walmart). They actually have both the Edge and Titanium version in fully synthetic 0w20.

On a side note - Most Napas stock Eneos 0w20 for about the same price as Castrol Edge at Advance.

Just make sure whatever you get has the GF-5 certification

 

[Buzzx6r]

Does the owners' manual list the oil grade and specification that must be met? I'm surprised at 0W/20 being used. Once it gets hot, it must be very thin, I wonder how it can protect the engine? Is 0W/20 recommended for the 2.2 skyactiv diesel?

 

[MikeM.]

Does the owners' manual list the oil grade and specification that must be met? I'm surprised at 0W/20 being used. Once it gets hot, it must be very thin, I wonder how it can protect the engine?

LOL! The entire engine has been designed to run on 0/20W. Of course it's fine - they torture tested the engine with this very oil in it.

BTW, a 0W/20 oil has the same viscosity when it's hot as a straight 20W oil.

The Skyactiv diesels call for 0W/30 or 5W/30 oils but the oil must be rated appropriately (not all available oils are suitable). Always trust the manufacturers recommendation over your own "common sense engineering".

 

[HandA]

BTW, a 0W/20 oil has the same viscosity when it's hot as a straight 20W oil.

That is a great point that is often overlooked in the oil designations. The 20 in the rating is how it handles at operating temperature

From Mobil1's site:

In simple language, the first part of the viscosity designation (W grade) is an indication of the product's ability to help an engine crank and start and for the engine to pump the lubricant. The lower the number (0W is the lowest), the lower the temperature the product can be used. So the W grade is related to the lowest temperature your engine sees when you start the engine on the coldest morning of the year. But also keep in mind that a lower W grade pumps and helps an engine to start better than a higher W grade. The second part the viscosity grade is related to the viscosity your engine sees at operating temperature. In this case, a higher number is a higher viscosity grade and provides more viscous oil at operating temperature than lower viscosity grade oil. It is not safe to assume that a higher viscosity oil is always better for your engine because other factors, such as engine design, fuel economy and power, are also related to operating viscosity.