Matte Black on Pinch Weld?

IAATM

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2013 Mazda5 Sport
At the same time as I add a new lower front lip, I'm also thinking about having a thick matte black paint sprayed on the pinch weld of my 2013 Mazda 5 (lower rocker panel area). I would like to think that this would serve two purposes: a) reduce stone chips (and rust) from driving down dirt/gravel roads and b) trick the eye into making my Mazda 5 look a little leaner/longer/streamlined.

What do you think? Worth it?
 
I would look into undercoating instead of paint, would hold up better, thicker then paint and is still black to cover up whatever unsightly paint you are trying to get rid off. It doesnt dry super smooth though but under the car I wouldnt think thats an issue
 
Ok, thanks. If I go the route of undercoating or bedliner, where might I get the work done? Would a regular body shop know how to spray those thick coatings? Would a bedliner place be able to pull it off?
 
I did this to my 2013 just this last Spring (over 6,000 miles ago) but I used a can of Rust Control Satin Black (from Walmart; about $3) and some very wide Blue Painters tape to get a straight line that was better than the factory line and the paint is thicker and covers better than the factory blackout paint on the rockers that you could see the white right through. The Factory rockers had a very fuzzy edge between their Blackout and the White paint, I moved the blackout line up some to get most of the fuzzy edge out but the factory did not have a very straight line and came up very high in some areas but not in others so decided to split the difference rather than coming up a lot higher. My goal was to mostly thicken up and blacken up what was already their (while straightening up the crocked Factory line) without moving the Blackened area up a lot higher than what was their from the factory.

I wiped everything down with paint thinner (to remove oils, waxes, etc.) in the factory blackout rocker panel, taped a straight line (straightening up the crocked areas from the factory and coming a little higher over most of the factory fuzzy edge), I then lightly sanded the factory blacken paint, did a final wipe down with paint thinner again to remove sanding dust and oils/residues, then gave it two light coats of Satin Black Rust control paint.

The camera flash reflected making it look like white is showing through but in person it is all Deep Satin Black. I wash it each time about every 3 weeks (about 1,500 miles in my case), this picture is close to time of washing again (later this weekend). I wanted a smooth finish that would not hold dirt/debris and is easy to keep clean. I did the factory white paint showing through in the wheel wheels during the first 100 miles and 1.5 years and 31,000 miles later they are holding up well. I always mask everything I don't want paint on and wipe everything I wipe to paint down with Paint Thinner before painting so any oils and stuff that would prevent the paint from sticking is removed.

I have used this Rust Control Satin Black Paint from Walmart for years when I first get a vehicle new and it held up in wheel wells and suspension parts of a 12 yr old Pontiac Vibe with 140,000 miles and a 15 yr old Silverado with 125,000 miles. Since it is Satin Black and since it is so inexpensive I sometimes (maybe every 3 years or so) touch up spots as needed.

Detailer's secret is to get the Wheel wells, rockers fold weld, etc. blackened out and it makes the body paint contrast and look shinier.

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If anyone decides to tackle this (it is actually really easy as long as you take a little time prepping), Another trick I learned is to mark several spot from the roll bend above the fold along the rocker panel with pieces of tape the same distance out from the bend about 6" inches or so apart from one another. Use these as reference points to tape your straight line, pay no attention to the randomly placed plastic plugs along the bottom of the rocker panel or the crocked factory paint line or it will thow your line off. My Factory line was extremely crocked right in front of the rear wheel wells.
 
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