Marvels Mystery oil

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Targaryen420

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2002 Mazda Protege5
So my car really needs to get its oil changed here soon, but i ran into a Holiday gas station for munchies and bought this oil for my car in the mean time. My brother swears by this stuff that it helps his car. Any word on this oil? Im just trying to get a habit of treating this car right.
 
It's supposed to be a typical stop-leak/seal repair/additive kind of thing. I've found, though years of owning older cars that tend to burn or leak oil, that stuff like this will thicken your oil up for about a week until it breaks down to nothing, and then you're back to leaking oil. If you want to take proper care of your car, just change the oil (the actual oil) at regular intervals and keep up with wear items, rather than filling your engine with dime store junk.

The only "miracle additive" product I've ever seen actually make a difference was Restore. A buddy of mine once had a junky old Hyundai, and a can of Restore went a long way. Given, it went from a write off to a usable turd, but I was impressed. Another good friend used it when he bought a rough old NA Miata for a tinkering project and it helped there, too. However, like I said, just keep up with regular maintenance. Save the mystery oil for the old, beat-up cars.
 
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Myster oil is an additive that has a slight cleaning effect. Never heard of it as a leak stopper. I will generally use a quart to top off the car if it is down one. Then change the oil when it is low again. Restore works great for older motors.
 
That stuff's made for hot rodders and muscle cars and V8s. It cleans the jets in your carburetor and reduces octane.

I wouldn't put in in a modern car.
 
I've used it a few times, not really noticeable when mixed with lots of gas in the tank.

I use it on the little engines of lawnmowers and pressure washers that have been sitting for months without running and it does a good job of helping the engine stay running rather than stalling out on the stale gas.
 
tweety2300 said:
How exactly does oil get into the carb?
Click to expand...

Because you can add it to your gasoline.
One of the ingredients is lard. Like from a pig. MMI recommends putting it in your gas, in your oil, in your air tools, in your diesel engine, in your transmission, in your fkn gun...

Snake oil.
 
daedalus_zero said:
http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/
Click to expand...

+1 on the seafoam.

I was lucky when I bought my car in that the original owner had done regular oil changes.

I started the Seafoam right away with some in the gas, some up the brake booster vacuum line and a full can in the crankcase oil. (but I saved some for my gun)

I dumped the oil 100 miles later and it came out VERY black.

The second time it came out black and now after using it every oil change my oil comes out almost the same color as it goes in.

I put it in my oil now AFTER my oil change and run it for 3000 miles then change my oil again (with the cheapest oil I can find on sale at wall-mart).




I believe the seafoam has made all the difference.

I don't burn a drop of oil and I'm certain my internals are clean,.. including those damn tiny drain holes on our pistons.

The last time I had my tail pipe sniffed for Emissions the guy said he thought his machine was screwed up,... I had lower emissions than when the car was new.

My original EGR is still on the car and has never been a problem. (They re-invented the EGR just for us Canadians.)

I figure with my emissions as clean as the air it sucks in, there's no crap in my exhaust to foul my EGR.

(Yea I know,.. now I gotta go buy a 1/4 stubby,.. or find some wood to knock on)



I keep a can in the car and put a shot in the gas every tank or two (ten treatments.... tens bucks... good economy for for an "injector cleaner").

As soon as my idle starts to stumble a few shoots go in the brake booster vacuum line then 1/3 of a can in the gas after I drop below a 1/4 tank.



Keep in mind that if your car has never been done, you could have ten pounds of sludge built up inside your engine and your oil could turn into pudding.

If your car is REALLY bad (a turd) then you could be washing away the stuff that keeping your seals sealed,... then you could spring leaks like a Maple tree in the spring.

Then you need to put thickeners in to plug them back up again ( or just shoot the car,... it's probably time,.. )
 
Admitted Seafoam is the bomb. Ive never added it to oil just the gas and vacuum line. My cars are high mileage and I would worry about excessive cleaning. It does a lot for mileage. I used it in a buddies Jeep and I got about 4mpg increase.
 
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Seafoam invented the stuff in 1942. Everyone else just copied it (with there own addition of oils from snakes)

I remember picking up a can of STP,.. same damn stuff I figure but there was no instructions for putting it in the vacuum system.

STP isn't willing to replace an engine because of stupidity,.. Seafoam does.

If I am running my car and disconnect the brake booster vacuum line and plug it right in to my can of Seafoam I may very well hydro lock my engine and destroy it.
The word "SLOWLY" in the instructions is Very important.

I've also read the ingredients on some "engine flush" products. They've got caustic ingredients and you aren't supposed to keep it in the engine for more than ten minutes.

Seafoam is safe if used properly and I think well worth the money. I'm sure it can pay for itself in MPG gains in no time.

There are plenty of related bonuses to having a clean engine. (I'm talking internally,... my engine bay is an oily mess,.. cancer prevention)

I don't need a catch can,.. I don't have blow by gasses to pressurize the crankcase and blow out any seals or oil out my PCV valve.
I don't have oil going through my exhaust fouling my cats or O2 sensors or sticking my EGR valve.

The time, effort and money I'm saving by not having to chase down dirt related engine codes, as well as not having to replace the car really add up.

I expect my car to last until my ass falls through the floorboards, which unfortunately may not be far off,... Friggen rust.



The only actual account of a bad experience with Seafoam that I could find was a guy who was doing it to his car, via a vacuum line and his car blowwed up.

I was just a big ass backfire that took out his intake. (which I believe was only indirectly related to the Seafoam)
He found the intake laying on the driveway smoking. He just put it back on and all was well.

Well worth the exciting show if you ask me.
 
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I agree with all above re. Seafoam.

Oh, and it will NOT hydrolock if you draw directly from the brake booster hose stuck in the can. The stalling is just lack of air. Give it gas to keep running and then let it stall and sit...

Think about it. you would need to dump more than two liters (2.0L engine, eh?) in four revolutions. Hard to do.

But pouring more slowly won't really dilute the cleaning effect - so either way really is okay.

(When a CAI causes hydrolock the entire inlet is immersed in water and it sucks up 2+ liters real quick)
 
I agree with all the the above re. P-Funk

Except I believe that fat ass suction tube will empty that can as fast as you can put it in the can. (or at least before you can count to two Mississippi)

I want to know the volume of just one cylinder at TDC to know if I can suck that amount into a cylinder on the intake stroke and then try to compress it past that specific volume.

That's when you stop compressing a gas and try to compress a liquid.


That's what I think anyway and I'm not gonna try to prove it... I still kinda like my car.

You could try ??!!! Seafoam will replace your engine ya no.

Just don't buy the STP... they won't even talk about vacuum treatments...
 
See that's the thing - you would have to flow enough liquid (because other cylinders are opening and getting partially filled taking away liquid) to get enough to fill one cylinder. You can't target the fluid and you can't time it - it mixes in the manifold. So a burst of liquid won't all make it all into one cylinder and you won't have enough in a can to fill a cylinder fast enough...

Picture the engine and the airflow dynamically to get an idea of what it would take to hydro-lock an engine - if you only had a .5 liter can...

This was how I would seafoam my car with no danger... But I would also 'pour 1/3 in the gas tank FIRST' and then further reduce the risk of sucking the can dry before I could stop it...
 
P-Funk! said:
,... to get enough to fill one cylinder. ...
Click to expand...

You don't need to "fill" the cylinder. You only need to fill the volume above the compression rings at TDC.


BUT,.. If You Do It First I'll Do It Too,... As fast as we can,.. The whole damn can...

(I expect video evidence)
 
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