MAF Relocation is the Key for VTA Blow off Valves

jdmkasey

Member
:
2003.5 Titanium MSP :))
Glad I found this forum, did some research and got a cold pipe done at a local shop.
Relocated the MAF to the cold pipe and I'm having absolutely no issues driveability wise, no stalling, no nothing.
Still got the turkey but that was to be expected. -____-
Pic below.
Im probably going to get the hot pipe done before summer and run an HKS.
The BOV I'm running now is basically a forge bov.
485903_108657519328026_1280055877_n.jpg526532_108866309307147_2121734555_n.jpg
 
Glad I found this forum, did some research and got a cold pipe done at a local shop.
Relocated the MAF to the cold pipe and I'm having absolutely no issues driveability wise, no stalling, no nothing.
Still got the turkey but that was to be expected. -____-
Pic below.
Im probably going to get the hot pipe done before summer and run an HKS.
The BOV I'm running now is basically a forge bov.
View attachment 201628View attachment 201629

tuekey is always expected. a few members have claimed that running both a BOV and stock BPV actually eliminates the compressor surge (turkey). theres a thread somewhere. and one member actually has his BOV on his hot pipe as opposed to his cold pipe like many do and claims his turkey was completely eliminated that way. so to each his own. some people can live with it some cant. want it completely gone, run a dual set up is easiest.
 
Still got the turkey but that was to be expected. -____-

No it is not.

the forge is usually sold with either a green or yellow spring. almost everyone orders the stronger spring

to get rid of turkey all you need is the softer spring. most have the stronger spring installed as it would vent a bit, but not enough to cause the car to stall with the MAF in the stock location.

now that you have the maf relocated you can go ahead and install the softer spring without worrying.

here is what it will sound like with the softer spring installed:

[video]http://www.1337msp.com/outside1.mpeg[/video]

[video]http://www.1337msp.com/outside2.mpeg[/video]

As you can see there is no turkey whatsoever using the forge with the softer spring.

also the stock plastic hot pipe has a very small nipple which is easily crushed when tightened too hard for mounting the forge BOV.

I found that enlarging this nipple when i changed the hot pipe to metal instead of stock also increased valve performance.

Essentially people that are still dealing with turkey after relocating their MAF either have:

1. too long of a vac line to their bov causing reduced valve performance
2. too stiff of a spring in their valve ("non adjustable" valves like the forge will need the entire spring changed to be "adjusted")
3. they have a BOV with an adjustment screw and they have not set it to be "soft" enough
4. a combo of 2 and 3
5. too small of a nipple for the bov/bpv to function properly (or the nipple is crushed in a bit if using stock plastic pipes)
6. a crappy bov (though this is very doubtful as even my $35 ebay bov that I am currently running works awsome, you just need to set them up properly)
 
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Some of the research in the old kill your turkey thread pointed to the diameter of the nipple and bpv being too small and causing the turkey (even with relocated vacuum lines iirc.) Upgrading to a 1" nipple and bpv/bov solved the problem.

Adding another nipple and a bov would also effectively increase the cross-sectional area. That would explain why people with a bpv and a bov were able to kill the turkey.
 
correct my original thread from 2005 has all the info you need for dual valves. I wouldnt really recommend it, just setup your current bov properly,



http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ve-Forge-BOV-stock-BPV-How-To-pics&highlight=



there is absolutely no reason to do this if you have a relocated MAF though. plus it looks like ass etc.


just read steps 1-6 in my first post in this thread and you will be fine.
 
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No it is not.

the forge is usually sold with either a green or yellow spring. almost everyone orders the stronger spring

to get rid of turkey all you need is the softer spring. most have the stronger spring installed as it would vent a bit, but not enough to cause the car to stall with the MAF in the stock location.

now that you have the maf relocated you can go ahead and install the softer spring without worrying.

here is what it will sound like with the softer spring installed:

[video]http://www.1337msp.com/outside1.mpeg[/video]

[video]http://www.1337msp.com/outside2.mpeg[/video]

As you can see there is no turkey whatsoever using the forge with the softer spring.

also the stock plastic hot pipe has a very small nipple which is easily crushed when tightened too hard for mounting the forge BOV.

I found that enlarging this nipple when i changed the hot pipe to metal instead of stock also increased valve performance.

Essentially people that are still dealing with turkey after relocating their MAF either have:

1. too long of a vac line to their bov causing reduced valve performance
2. too stiff of a spring in their valve ("non adjustable" valves like the forge will need the entire spring changed to be "adjusted")
3. they have a BOV with an adjustment screw and they have not set it to be "soft" enough
4. a combo of 2 and 3
5. too small of a nipple for the bov/bpv to function properly (or the nipple is crushed in a bit if using stock plastic pipes)
6. a crappy bov (though this is very doubtful as even my $35 ebay bov that I am currently running works awsome, you just need to set them up properly)

Well my bov didn't come with an additional spring. The spring thats in there though doesn't seem to be anything too stiff.
My vacuum line isn't too long either, neither is the nipple, its a decent size (sounded weird)
I'm not too concerned, I'm only running this until I save up to get the hot pipe redone and the HKS SSQV 4 & flange welded.
Hoping that having a real bov thats adjustable, new, and legit with the hot pipe redone will eliminate all the turkey.
Then I'm done with all this stuff. Lol, next up is hellaflush :p
 
Hoping that having a real bov thats adjustable, new, and legit with the hot pipe redone will eliminate all the turkey.

lol what do you mean a real BOV? the forge is awsome. I bet you wont have a problem reselling.

Well my bov didn't come with an additional spring. The spring thats in there though doesn't seem to be anything too stiff.

You have to pay for the springs, it doesnt come with both.

next up is hellaflush

I hear ya. I really need a nice suspension setup too. Post up pics when you do yours!
 
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lol what do you mean a real BOV? the forge is awsome. I bet you wont have a problem reselling.



You have to pay for the springs, it doesnt come with both.



I hear ya. I really need a nice suspension setup too. Post up pics when you do yours!

I mean real as in mines a knock off of the Forge. lol thats why i said its basically a force. It says SPA Turbo on it, but it's IDENTICAL to the forge design.
Works fine, and sounds great but I'm just so in love with the HKS SSQV, always have been. Everytime I ride in my buddies 399whp EVO it just sounds amazing.
I definitely will post up pics when I get it, it'll be a while though. I don't have the best job lol plus im doing the hks and hotpipe first.
 
I love my ebay type rs sounds amazing, get one with an adjustable screw and adjust it how you want it.

Imo you will want a better job before doing the hella flush thing, camber kills tires and theyre not cheap.
 
I love my ebay type rs sounds amazing, get one with an adjustable screw and adjust it how you want it.

Imo you will want a better job before doing the hella flush thing, camber kills tires and theyre not cheap.

Toe is actually what kills tires. Camber doesn't have that much of an effect.
Friend of mine has a type rs, i may try that and see how it sounds just for fun.
 
Toe is actually what kills tires. Camber doesn't have that much of an effect.
Friend of mine has a type rs, i may try that and see how it sounds just for fun.

ever hear of camber-wear..? if the tire doesnt sit flat on the road surface than you are applying excess friction in the areas that are making contact, thus yes camber has a lot to do with wear. less surface area = more friction = more wear.
 
less surface area = more friction = more wear.

^^no to that...negative camber actually makes LESS friction between the tire and road surface when traveling in a straight line...so acceleration and straight line braking traction is compromised...but negative camber allows a cornering car to 'roll' onto the flat foot print of the tire...giving MORE traction during cornering because of more tire surface area...i.e. more friction...

camber wear has nothing to do with friction other than for most normal driving cases; only a small part of the tires foot print is in use...so it wears unevenly...its not creating more friction, it just creating friction on a certain percentage of the tire...

Toe-in creates 'scrubbing', and will destroy a tire much faster than anything camber related...but can give extremely precise turn in, and coupled with the right amount of negative camber; can make a car carry speed through a turn significantly higher than a neutral alignment...just clarifying, thats all...
 
does it matter if the maf is before or after the bov in relation to the throttle body, if that makes sense?
 
Throttle body maf then bov, you should have 12-18" inbetween maf and bov

What is the reasoning for maintaining that much distance between them? And does that spacing apply to the distance between the throttle body and maf as well?
 
The air space allows the turbulent air to straighten back out before it flows through the MAF. The air can become turbulent after the BOV opens and it can mess up the MAF readings.
 
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