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Loss of power
- Thread starter pat_smith1969
- Start date
it got down to 27 degrees a few weeks ago and my car was rippin' pavement off the road. Off subject, but is there any way to replace a spring in the stock BPV to make it not leak boost?
Yes for $150, you buy the forge bpv. The stock one is a plastic piece of crap and doesnt came apart without breaking it that ive seen.
I've found with this car you dont just floor it, if you gradually put your foot down but not to the floor it responds the best. I wonder if it has something to do with the fact the throttle plate never opens 100%.
I've been doing that since you said this and the power is much more consistent. it actually feels like there's some more top end power..
Many of the MS3 users, CX-7's as well, have had to tighten the tubing around the turbo and intercooler. I'd say check there. In colder weather, your ECU WILL deliver more boost, and it just may be enough pressure to cause a small leak. Intake to the turbo seems to be where most people find there tubing loose. But I'd check everywhere to be sure.
Or maybe just let you car really warm up first. 40 degrees is pretty cold. Engine and tranny gotta be warm and loose to perform.
Or maybe just let you car really warm up first. 40 degrees is pretty cold. Engine and tranny gotta be warm and loose to perform.
SubieKiller3
Banned
- :
- 2008 black mica mazdaspeed mazda 3
I've found with this car you dont just floor it, if you gradually put your foot down but not to the floor it responds the best. I wonder if it has something to do with the fact the throttle plate never opens 100%.
+ 1
you gotta give the turbo a chance to spool up
pat_smith1969
Member
Well I just got it back from the dealer. They changed the oil, fixed the horrible rattle from the cowl around the windshield, and looked at my power loss issue.
They fixed the rattle.
Changed Oil.
Vaccumed the car.
Washed the car.
They hooked their PC up to my car and said all the parameters look good, specifically the PSI the turbo is putting out is good.
Going to this particular dealership was a good experience, they are a good dealership IMO (Rosenthal Gaithersburg Mazda in Maryland). I don't hold it against them that they couldn't find a cause for this problem, it is a tricky one. I am depressed however.
They fixed the rattle.
Changed Oil.
Vaccumed the car.
Washed the car.
They hooked their PC up to my car and said all the parameters look good, specifically the PSI the turbo is putting out is good.
Going to this particular dealership was a good experience, they are a good dealership IMO (Rosenthal Gaithersburg Mazda in Maryland). I don't hold it against them that they couldn't find a cause for this problem, it is a tricky one. I am depressed however.
serialtoon
Member
- :
- 2008 Mazdaspeed 3
Ive had my car for about a year and a few months now. It has 13k miles on it and i installed a Cobb SRI 6-8 months ago, and a Forge BPV about 3 months ago. i feel the same way, my car doesnt feel as fast anymore. Either i got used to it, or the BPV is the culprit.
tiagotiago
Member
- :
- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3
In my experience it has to do with both temperatures (hot air and the turbo struggles) and getting used to it. Since summer ended, the car has been far more responsive. In some twisties that I drive, I find the car responding a lot stronger where it wouldn't respond so urgently with warmer temps.
Also some time in less powerful cars makes you feel the turbo all over again. I had to be away on a business trip, and when I came back and got into my car, it was like discovering the boost for the fist time; the ride home was very entertaining.
And yes, this car needs very smooth and progressive throttle applications. Any excess will cause wheelspin or wheelhop out of a corner, and will also aggravate torque steer. Do it just right and it will hook up very nicely in bone stock form.
Also some time in less powerful cars makes you feel the turbo all over again. I had to be away on a business trip, and when I came back and got into my car, it was like discovering the boost for the fist time; the ride home was very entertaining.
And yes, this car needs very smooth and progressive throttle applications. Any excess will cause wheelspin or wheelhop out of a corner, and will also aggravate torque steer. Do it just right and it will hook up very nicely in bone stock form.
pat_smith1969
Member
Well I got this all figured out.
1. With the environment thermostat set to "Auto", it may/maynot kick in the AC unit at any time.
2. I think my Traction Control was on at the time, while this wont remove power it will affect how much of a "raging beast" the car feels like.
3. (this is the big one I think) I owned a 626 for the last 7 years, 4 cyl. I got into a BUNCH of bad habbits driving that car. I noticed that I used to hold the wheel right at the 12 oclock position. Doing that in the MS3 will rip the wheel out of my hand, no leverage. Since I got my MS3 I have been working on better driving technique (like 10 and 2, shifting then immediately replacing my hand on the wheel instead of picking my nose or some other nonsense. Holding the wheel at 10 oclock while I shift gives me much better leverage and makes the wheel feel less like it is going to be ripped out of my hand.
1. With the environment thermostat set to "Auto", it may/maynot kick in the AC unit at any time.
2. I think my Traction Control was on at the time, while this wont remove power it will affect how much of a "raging beast" the car feels like.
3. (this is the big one I think) I owned a 626 for the last 7 years, 4 cyl. I got into a BUNCH of bad habbits driving that car. I noticed that I used to hold the wheel right at the 12 oclock position. Doing that in the MS3 will rip the wheel out of my hand, no leverage. Since I got my MS3 I have been working on better driving technique (like 10 and 2, shifting then immediately replacing my hand on the wheel instead of picking my nose or some other nonsense. Holding the wheel at 10 oclock while I shift gives me much better leverage and makes the wheel feel less like it is going to be ripped out of my hand.
SubieKiller3
Banned
- :
- 2008 black mica mazdaspeed mazda 3
my car doesnt feel that fast when its toooo cold. maybe it is a fuel pump issue. i think the perfect temp for my car feeling like its running its best is around 65 degree.
my car doesnt feel that fast when its toooo cold. maybe it is a fuel pump issue. i think the perfect temp for my car feeling like its running its best is around 65 degree.
At WOT, we run at about 4.3v TPS. When too cold, we run at about 2.8v TPS. I've been doing tons of tuning with the SB lately, and ran into some 'issues' on certain nights (it being winter). After doing some live analysis (with the SB), this is what I discovered.
Since summer ended, the car has been far more responsive. In some twisties that I drive, I find the car responding a lot stronger where it wouldn't respond so urgently with warmer temps.
Get a DashHawk, measure the BAT, and your car will be much more predictable. Not even predictable, for sure you'll know when and how your car will react.
When BAT's are over 105-110, our engine goes down in performance, 120-130 and over, we f*&$#n chug ass.... Under 100 good average performance, under 90, this is when we notice best performance.
But don't get me wrong, this isn't all dependant on the weather. Even when cold, it's very easy for our BAT to get over the 120 mark. All it takes is bit of a heavy foot, 20 minutes of driving, and some heat soak and your there over 120.
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