Looking for nuts and bolts for header, any help? :)

[MIKECRPR5]

So I'm buying the M2/Manzo header:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Along with that I'm ordering the bolt and spring kit to attach it to the cat:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1081954&cc=1416833&jnid=419&jpid=0

And the donut gasket:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1081298&jnid=6&jpid=0

I'm also getting a set of non-foulers in case I get a CEL so I have them already rather than waiting for them if needed.


So there're 8 bolts to attach the header to the manifold, and 2 nuts. Here is the bolt:
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/products/BOLT/1817163/9YA010801.html

And the nut:
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/products/NUT/1815644/999460800.html


Does anybody know where to get a set of the manifold nuts and bolts cheaper?
Also wrapping the header - yay or nay?

Thanks guys!

 

[MrGiggles]

You can get the M8 bolts from Lowes/HD in either allen or hex head pretty easily. I'm pretty sure they're M8, but you'll want to double check. I'm assuming that you're buying them because the header has a thinner flange, so you'll need to get them a little shorter as well.

 

[MIKECRPR5]

I didn't take the bolts fully out yet so I wasn't sure if they were anything special on the inside - I just cracked a few loose while waiting for the header, just to see if they'd come out easy. They're just pretty rusty so I figured I'd replace them. Anyway thanks MrGiggles, I'll check home depot once the header comes and I take the old ones out.

When I did my timing belt and water pump a few weeks ago I stripped the nut for the water pump tensioner...completely rounded out. So I had to take the whole pump off and just hack the nut off with the bolt still inside it. So I bought the nut and bolt from Mazda and had to wait an extra day.

Also, the passenger side motor mount has a stripped bolt that the head got totally rounded off as well. Ironic, but it's a GREAT thing the rubber donut inside the mount is broken, because I was able to somewhat push the mount in a little bit to squeeze the timing belt out! But it made it HELL to get my hands in there without taking that motor mount out.

 

[MrGiggles]

Use good 6 point sockets and stuff like that usually doesn't happen. If it does, there are sockets on the market that are made to deal with that. Autozone carries some, and Irwin makes a set that are hammered on.

 

[MIKECRPR5]

I do have good 6 points, but these wouldn't budge at all. I got 3 of the 4 bolts loose by putting a 3 foot pipe on a 1/2" socket wrench, and they stayed in perfect condition.

I bought the irwin set, a craftsman set, and a set from harbor freight - none of them worked so I returned them all. I may try my buddy's Snap On one before I try and dremel a notch in it. At least I was able to cut the one off the water pump bracket and replace it. I can hack the head off this motor mount bolt but then the threads will be stuck inside. And I'm afraid to try and extract it at that point because it really is stuck in there.

Maybe a torch is my next option if the snap on tool doesn't work =/

 

[PaulyD]

Are you passing inspection for emissions with this header? Does it throw a cel error?

 

[MIKECRPR5]

Are you passing inspection for emissions with this header? Does it throw a cel error?

I haven't installed it yet, if you look at my post on: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123848091-Replace-Front-Catalytic-Converter-Questions
I explained what's going on now.

Anyway, it most likely will throw a code because of too much exhaust hitting the secondary o2 sensor since there is no pre-cat...so I got a 2 pack of non-foulers just incase..those will space the o2 sensor out a little farther so less gas hits it and it will make the computer think there is a pre-cat still there.

As for NJ emissions - I'm not sure yet, I'll find out in october!