I actually did both of them with the tape. I removed all the sound deadening material in the blue car the other car had it removed already. The tape seems to be weather resistant so far, its been on the blue car for over 8 years.
Lighter = Faster (RX-7 Build #2)
- Thread starter magnumP5
- Start date
Urgh... Decided to clean off the fuel tank a little tonight before taking it to be cleaned tomorrow. So far I've found 5 holes big enough to fit a small screwdriver through. So much for using this tank. I've decided I don't want to mess with a fuel cell right now so it's time to look for another stock tank. Le sigh...
60+ hour work week so no progress on the RX7. Did find a new fuel tank but of course it wasn't without its issues. eBay listing mentioned a dent but didn't say where it was. Turns out it was right below the fuel pump so it was preventing the lid from being bolted down. Spent about an hour pounding out the dent and everything's good.
In other hews spent sometime talking to someone about digital dashes. Seriously considering one how because I could eliminate every extra gauge. Only problem is I'd need a different ECU with more inputs and outputs.
In other hews spent sometime talking to someone about digital dashes. Seriously considering one how because I could eliminate every extra gauge. Only problem is I'd need a different ECU with more inputs and outputs.
Getting warmer out so it's yardwork and spring cleaning time and less car time.
Since I was constrained to housework on Sunday I worked on the carpet where I could. I removed all the sound/heat insulation and padding off the backside:
All that crap weighed 10 lbs so including the sound-deadening materal it's a total of 30 lbs of insulation removed from the car. That should make up for the addition of the roll bar and heat barrier I'll be adding later. I then vacuumed all the crap out of the carpet in preparation of deeper cleaning:
Eventually I'll die it black.
Strongly leaning toward the digital dash (Racepak IQ3 display) and upgraded ECU (Haltech Platinum Sport 1000). I really don't need all the extra functionality of the ECU but it has extra inputs for displaying and logging (need oil temperature, oil pressure, fuel level, and a second wideband air/fuel), can communicate directly to the IQ3 display via CANBUS, and can do closed-loop control on two wideband inputrs (separate fuel and timing control on each rotor, if needed). Now I need to come up with ~$2800 for everything. Someone buy my gauges!
Since I was constrained to housework on Sunday I worked on the carpet where I could. I removed all the sound/heat insulation and padding off the backside:
All that crap weighed 10 lbs so including the sound-deadening materal it's a total of 30 lbs of insulation removed from the car. That should make up for the addition of the roll bar and heat barrier I'll be adding later. I then vacuumed all the crap out of the carpet in preparation of deeper cleaning:
Eventually I'll die it black.
Strongly leaning toward the digital dash (Racepak IQ3 display) and upgraded ECU (Haltech Platinum Sport 1000). I really don't need all the extra functionality of the ECU but it has extra inputs for displaying and logging (need oil temperature, oil pressure, fuel level, and a second wideband air/fuel), can communicate directly to the IQ3 display via CANBUS, and can do closed-loop control on two wideband inputrs (separate fuel and timing control on each rotor, if needed). Now I need to come up with ~$2800 for everything. Someone buy my gauges!
Not dead, but no progress since before Easter. 60+ hour work weeks and building a shed in the back yard in my free time has kept me away from the RX7. Can't really start until the shed is done and all the lawn/garden equipment is moved. ECU upgrade and digital dash are likely becoming a reality soon. Many months with no RX7 purchases has left the "fun stuff" account overflowing so it's time to do something about that.
Giggity.
Just glad you haven't lost motivation. Being an adult and family man is a totally acceptable excuse, buddy.
So I've come to a conclusion I'm sure some of you won't like. No, I'm not selling my car! This is going to be a little of a dissertation.
Over the past 5 weeks I've simply had no time to work on this. Between work, chores around the house, and spending time with my family I just don't have the time to spend hours on end in the garage like I used to. Even when I do find time it's an hour here or there and unfortunately most of what needs to be done takes an hour to really get into. It's been three years since the red car was taken off the road. A lot of that time is my fault either taking breaks (Summer 2012), or changing my mind (too many times), but knowing I'll get at most 5-6 hours a week to work on this means it'll likely be the end of the decade before I'm done. I want this car done and I want to get back out on track. Therefore, I've made the unthinkable decision to reach out to various shops to expedite the process. Yes, I probably won't be doing all the work myself anymore and I know some people will think I'm "buying, not building."
Not everything is getting outsourced - just the tasks that require tools and/or experience I don't have. Right now I've got these broken down into three groups: welding/fabrication, harness building, and bodywork/painting. I don't have the money or space for big, complex tools and I don't have the time to devote myself to learning a new skill and applying it. I've already reached out to Jay Racing for the welding/fab work, Ludwig Motorsports (LMS-EFI) for the harness construction, and I've yet to find a body shop. Everything else I'll still be attempting myself. This includes custom interior work, fuel system work, engine building, and final assembly to name a few. This way I still feel the final outcome of the build is up to me.
Yes, this is going to cost more and yes, there is still significant risk, but making this decision makes me feel a whole lot better about this build overall. I'll still document everything I can in this thread. It's time to get this wrapped up so I can get back out track with you guys like I should've been back in 2011.
Over the past 5 weeks I've simply had no time to work on this. Between work, chores around the house, and spending time with my family I just don't have the time to spend hours on end in the garage like I used to. Even when I do find time it's an hour here or there and unfortunately most of what needs to be done takes an hour to really get into. It's been three years since the red car was taken off the road. A lot of that time is my fault either taking breaks (Summer 2012), or changing my mind (too many times), but knowing I'll get at most 5-6 hours a week to work on this means it'll likely be the end of the decade before I'm done. I want this car done and I want to get back out on track. Therefore, I've made the unthinkable decision to reach out to various shops to expedite the process. Yes, I probably won't be doing all the work myself anymore and I know some people will think I'm "buying, not building."
Not everything is getting outsourced - just the tasks that require tools and/or experience I don't have. Right now I've got these broken down into three groups: welding/fabrication, harness building, and bodywork/painting. I don't have the money or space for big, complex tools and I don't have the time to devote myself to learning a new skill and applying it. I've already reached out to Jay Racing for the welding/fab work, Ludwig Motorsports (LMS-EFI) for the harness construction, and I've yet to find a body shop. Everything else I'll still be attempting myself. This includes custom interior work, fuel system work, engine building, and final assembly to name a few. This way I still feel the final outcome of the build is up to me.
Yes, this is going to cost more and yes, there is still significant risk, but making this decision makes me feel a whole lot better about this build overall. I'll still document everything I can in this thread. It's time to get this wrapped up so I can get back out track with you guys like I should've been back in 2011.
Totally understandable. Don't let the project car stress you out to the point you want to sell it, trust me.
And nothing wrong with having a shop(s) do some of your fab work. It's not like you don't know the platform and are just doing to pay to have a car put together so you can take it to car shows and take all the credit. You're getting it finish because you simply don't have the time to do it yourself, certainly not because of lack of talent. Get it done so you can come play with us!
And nothing wrong with having a shop(s) do some of your fab work. It's not like you don't know the platform and are just doing to pay to have a car put together so you can take it to car shows and take all the credit. You're getting it finish because you simply don't have the time to do it yourself, certainly not because of lack of talent. Get it done so you can come play with us!
Antoine
Administrator
I hear ya...When I first got the Cosmo I wanted to upgrade what I could myself but it quickly became apparent that I lacked many things needed to properly work on a vehicle...I don't have a garage, I don't have space for real tools, I don't have many of the skills needed nor the time to acquire them...In addition to that, I've got a Family, a day job and this site that takes up most of my time (free or otherwise). Fortunately, I've met some very talented individuals who have the ability and connections that I desperately need to keep my Cosmo alive!
I admire people who can do all the work themselves, especially the ones who can engineer and fabricate their own parts...I WISH I could do that but we're not all so blessed....I've really enjoyed this thread and I look forward to your updates even if you can't do ALL the work yourself..
I admire people who can do all the work themselves, especially the ones who can engineer and fabricate their own parts...I WISH I could do that but we're not all so blessed....I've really enjoyed this thread and I look forward to your updates even if you can't do ALL the work yourself..
Thanks for the affirmation guys. So far I've spoken with Chris Ludwig of Ludwig Motorsports (LMS - EFI) and I think we have a solid plan for the wiring harness. I spoke briefly with Jay Racing and they had some questions so I sent them some pictures and a brief description. I haven't heard back from them yet and haven't been able to reach them either. I really need to a find a welding/fab shop willing to work with me.
I still can't do much as the garage is still dedicated to other tasks. The rain last night gave a brief repriece from these duties so I decided to work on the fan shroud I laid about a year ago. I got it cut down to the final shape and cut out sections to clear the features of the radiator.
I made the cut outs so I can install the shroud exit pointing up out through the hood (preferred) or pointed directly at the engine. I still need to clean up the edges some and then it's time to apply filler, sand, and paint.
I still can't do much as the garage is still dedicated to other tasks. The rain last night gave a brief repriece from these duties so I decided to work on the fan shroud I laid about a year ago. I got it cut down to the final shape and cut out sections to clear the features of the radiator.
I made the cut outs so I can install the shroud exit pointing up out through the hood (preferred) or pointed directly at the engine. I still need to clean up the edges some and then it's time to apply filler, sand, and paint.
Updates - first the good news!
I'll be dropping the car off at Allspeed Innovations in Lebanon, OH to get the radiator/oil cooler ducting fabbed and to fix some issues with the exhaust I was never happy about. I may add some other tasks if they're game. The goal is to get everything done by the end of July so I can take the car down to Ludwig Motorsports to get the engine harness made.
I've been doing small tasks here and there. I was out of town most last week but still managed to get the fan shroud filled and sanded:
It's ready for primer, some more light sanding, then paint and clear.
Now the not-too-bad news - I noticed a lot of the rubberized undercoating is flaking off - no doubt a side effect of the dry ice used to remove the interior sound-deadening material. Fortunately the metal underneath is coated but no doubt it's easily scratched. The car won't see snow or salt and will only see wet weather when unavoidable but I'm still thinking I should try to recoat it somehow. Is the generic rubberized undercoating in a spray can up to this challenge?
Now the bad news - the car has more rust than I thought. I punched through some rust behind where the driver's seat mounts and now have a ~2" diameter hole in the floor. There are also 2-3 locations on either side beneath the door with enough rust to generate new or larger holes. Those don't break into the cabin but will nonetheless need to be addressed. I *think* these shouldn't be too hard to fix by welding in some new metal but I'm nervous that going in will reveal much larger affected areas. I feel I'm too deep into this chassis to cut and run.
I'll be dropping the car off at Allspeed Innovations in Lebanon, OH to get the radiator/oil cooler ducting fabbed and to fix some issues with the exhaust I was never happy about. I may add some other tasks if they're game. The goal is to get everything done by the end of July so I can take the car down to Ludwig Motorsports to get the engine harness made.
I've been doing small tasks here and there. I was out of town most last week but still managed to get the fan shroud filled and sanded:
It's ready for primer, some more light sanding, then paint and clear.
Now the not-too-bad news - I noticed a lot of the rubberized undercoating is flaking off - no doubt a side effect of the dry ice used to remove the interior sound-deadening material. Fortunately the metal underneath is coated but no doubt it's easily scratched. The car won't see snow or salt and will only see wet weather when unavoidable but I'm still thinking I should try to recoat it somehow. Is the generic rubberized undercoating in a spray can up to this challenge?
Now the bad news - the car has more rust than I thought. I punched through some rust behind where the driver's seat mounts and now have a ~2" diameter hole in the floor. There are also 2-3 locations on either side beneath the door with enough rust to generate new or larger holes. Those don't break into the cabin but will nonetheless need to be addressed. I *think* these shouldn't be too hard to fix by welding in some new metal but I'm nervous that going in will reveal much larger affected areas. I feel I'm too deep into this chassis to cut and run.
I know rustoleum makes an undercoating you can get at home depot or if you want to get a little crazy you can do the DIY bed-liner stuff that can be applied with a roller or spray.
A couple car shows have used lizard skin on both the exterior and interior
A couple car shows have used lizard skin on both the exterior and interior
I don't know why I never caught this sooner Marc. I plan on attacking the entire underside of the car with POR-15 but I'm not looking forward to spending hours on my back with a wire wheel and brush (no lift). I think I can address a majority of the rust myself with POR-15 and patches. When I get the car back (don't get me started) I need to check the proximity of one of the holes to one of the roll bar points. That may be the only location where a weld repair is required. Since I've never used POR-15 before I ordered the Super Starter Kit and am going to practice on other items (e.g. fuel tank cover). Speaking of, I've got the thing stripped down and ready for the AN fittings. I just need to come up with a way to run the wires.
If you are going to do a lot of work on the bottom of the car try making a rotisserie with 2 engine stands and weld up a couple of brackets to attach to the bumper brackets. I 've seen it work with a shell of a car. Also if your going to make some AN lines then look into an item called a Koul tool, I used on to make all of my AN lines for the RX-7.
Good idea. If only I had another engine stand. I might know someone who has a rotisserie though. Maybe they'll let me borrow it. I already made all the fuel lines for the last car. My lines and fittings are Fragola parts so I know the Koul tool. I didn't use it but it would've probably helped.
The car was returned last night.
The observant ones will notice it's on the other side of the garage, haha. Some pictures of the ducting:
It's what I envisioned but better than anything I'd make since I don't have a metal brake or means to cut large sheets of aluminum. It's 100% removable although I'll need to add two small side plate to completely seal everything. Those'll have to be attached with riv-nuts because they have to be removed to pull the duct.
I pulled the headliner and rear-view mirror last night. Two last interior pieces I need to paint. I need to completely mock up the engine for the harness builder and make a new coil-mounting bracket. I'm going to start calling body shops today. Time to take a vote on color. My preferences are red (all my previous Mazdas were), black (it covers everything), or orange (think Spicey Orange without the metal flake - something different).
