Last Legs of a Brake Job... HELP!!!

[Tw1g007]

I recently finished replacing the brake calipers, pads, and rotors all around on my Pro5. Everything was good for the most part. But I have two problems. First, the rear driver side is still clamped, its rubbing on the rotor and basically having the same problem I replaced it for. Also, the brake pedal is light, like, dead, until half way to the floor, at which point it's super stiff, and responsive.

I have no idea what I may have done wrong, other than tightening the allen head bolt in the piston housing all the way down in the rear, then loosening 1/3 turn. It's what I read to do somewhere. Please help, I miss driving my car and I really want to get it back on the road.

I was told it was most likely the brake lines causing the clamping, that the lines were collapsed and not letting fluid back up into the system. Of course it could be that the rear driver side caliper is defective, but I already returned the old one for the CORE charge. So if I have to get a replacement, idk what I'll do with the brake line to keep it from leaking.

Please, any advice would help, its well past time for this car to get back on the road.

 

[pcb]

Check to see if your P-Brake cable is seized. Make sure the attachment point on the rear caliper is pivoting and releasing when the P-Brake handle is pulled and released.

...

other than tightening the allen head bolt in the piston housing all the way down in the rear, then loosening 1/3 turn. It's what I read to do somewhere.

If you didn't do this then you should,... the rear pistons may be backed off too far and take half a pedal push to move them into contact with the rotor.

 

[Tw1g007]

The person helping me said the parking brake was working, engaging fine. And we did do that with the allen bolt, on both sides as far as I know. I'm really lost because I'm sure we did it right, and the brakes are bled but they don't feel right.

 

[pcb]

My rear brake was dragging because of a sticking p-brake cable. I added some extra spring tension.

Make sure that connection point is rotating. It may engage but not release. It's the rotation of that pivot that auto- adjusts the brake piston.

Your brakes may just need to "seat" themselves and feel "soft" for a bit.

 

[P-Funk!]

Procedure is bleed the calipers first (RR/LR/RF/LF) all again. Never let the brake reservoir run dry! Bleed alot - flushes the fluid too You should consume a full liter (or more) of fresh fluid. (Ensure your buddy releases the pedal only after you close the bleed port)

Adjust the hex screw until the pads just start to contact the rotor. Spin the wheel and turn it in. Yours may be too tight still.

If the caliper simply won't release - inspect the hoses. Remove the parking brake cable. Lube and move the parking brake lever and cable. Lube the slider pin (again). Lastly, return caliper as defective.

Good luck!

Test the parking brake. Off and on by trying to spin the wheel. Lastly, adjust the handle (10mm bolt).

 

[Tw1g007]

The brakes aren't just soft. They literally feel non-existant until the pedal is halfway to the floor. But thanks for the suggestions, I'll try those out.

 

[Tw1g007]

**Update**

I tried to adjust the driver side caliper, no difference.
Returned part as defective, replacement went on no problem, adjusted correctly.
Adjusted rear calipers (just to double check, should I hear rubbing when I spin the wheel, and how freely should the wheel spin?)
Bled all brakes, no air in lines.

Pedal still isn't right, brakes feel too soft, all new parts and pads (except for lines). Only start getting friction just after the pedal is pressed past the gas pedal. I'm running out of stuff to check at this point. I can drive the car now, but I don't know how exactly safe it is tbh. Need to finish this, start a new job next week and this is my daily, it needs to be running as safe as possible.

 

[MrGiggles]

What is your bleeding process?

 

[Tw1g007]

What is your bleeding process?

Have somebody sit in the driver seat, open the fluid reservoir, undo bleeder screw, hold tube to hole and have helper press brakes until there's no air, repeat for all calipers.

 

[Balls]

Have helper pump the brakes 3-4 times, then hold it down. THEN loosen bleeder screw until no air and re tighten. do this as many times as needed until no air comes out, then do it a few more just to be sure. Brake fluid is cheap. Start at the farthest brake and work your way closer. This should take care of the issue.

 

[MrGiggles]

When manually bled, the bleeder needs to be closed before your helper allows the pedal to return. It will pull air in if it's open. Even if you can't see it in the hose, it'll pull it past the bleeder threads.

Here's what I do.

1. Open bleeder.
2. Have helper push pedal to the floor and hold.
3. While holding, close bleeder.
4. Helper releases pedal. Rinse and repeat.

I would consider pressure bleeding as well.

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/bleeder/