here is a how-to from years earlier...
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Hrmm lets see if I can remember all this.
The Rack is what 20 years old? So I wanted to see if it fit before I even started to rebuild it. It seemed to be a pretty close fit. The secondary mount needed to be slid in like around a inch or so. However its not just a rubber mount, its also the end of the rack. It holds on the pass side boot, and looks like maybe a seal or something. But alas I squirted some lube under the hard rubber and twisted it down in my vice and around 10 5/8" later it was match (but now you can see the boot is super extended). Next I found that to get the same ball to ball the outer tie rods where only on by like 3 or so turns. I didn't feel safe since some of the rumble strips at road America are pretty harsh. So I went to my local parts guy (not autozone) and told him I needed the same outer tire rods but with a bit longer length. Two min later he cam out with what I needed. $41 later I got new tie rods (not that the old ones where even slightly worn). Cut them down a touch and spun them on and walla! I did notice when I was checking out the secondary mount (had the boot off) that the grease was like new and there was no play and the rack felt in very good condition even the outer tire rod ends had no play. So I chose not to rebuild and I could care less on the looks since its a race car not a show car. So in it went. Like three times. The first time I realized that the primary bolts had to be changed, and the primary mount needed to be cut. I had to remove the center (between the bolts) to make room for the round mount, since the power rack was flat and the manual was round. so $5 later I had new bolts that I had to cut down. Also the steering was a bit shifted. So centered that and pulled it off to try again. Second time it went in. But it was cocked out forward on the secondary mount. Thought and thought and the only thing I could think off was to twist the hard rubber mount 180* and reinstalled a third time. This time with the secondary hard rubber mount backwards the rack was straight as a arrow (couldn't believe it). Mounted super solid. No binding in the steering. And spindles and steering wheel are all straight. Next I had to loosen a bolt that was pinching the steering shaft so the "u" joint could slip about a 1/4" down over the rack input and reinstalled bolt re tightened shaft pinch bolt and done. The rack weight diff was 5LBS for a overall weight loss of 20LBS. Its not worth the time. But I only need to be quicker by 1 second to be in-front of the fastest miatas in Midwest Council and into some real competition. Team this with a quiafe, and some other weight loss goodies I think I will be happy. I can't say for sure if this mod is dumb or good till april (spring training). Then I can comment on the drive-ability, paddock-ability, and the ease of getting around in the engine bay without all the hoses, pump, belt, and fluids. But for sure I would hate to deal with a un-powered power rack moving it around by my self in and out of the trailer, and moving it in place in false grid.
Here are some pics. Yes some. Sorry I hate stopping when I get going.
Update: It is awesome! It was sooooo hard to learn how to drive/race with two hands. I know it sounds dumb, but I have always driven with one hand. And getting around in the pits is not bad at all. No problems. well maybe my tires being to big and rubbed a bit when I spun out, but no problems. I can now under stand the "feedback" thing people are talking about. If you get into a corner just perfect you could let go of the wheel and the car just 4 wheel drifts through with no steering input. Also the ratio is higher so any jerks of the wheel are slowed down making me look like I know how to drive. nice and smooth. One draw back is if I start to spin its a lot of work to recover. I need to learn how to recover quicker as I spun in my first race.
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No good?
