Just another yellow P5 build...

Just took the booster out, never have done that before. Super easy. New booster will arrive in the morning. Hopefully that solves the issue. Mine was rusty anyway from the old leaky master cylinder.
 
Was able to clean under/behind a bit too.

20170110_192843_zps2l95fzit.jpg
 
Did you bleed the brakes by yourself? The best way to bleed is with 2 people as demonstrated in the video below, in particular the opening and closing sequence of the bleed nipple while the brakes are under pressure. Never releasing the brake paddle back up while nipple is still open. Even if the reservoir is still full, a little amount of air get's sucked in through the nipple when the paddle is released.

 
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Yup, that's how it was done. I can guarantee there is no air in the system. We bled a whole quart through the system to clean it out. The old booster had some fluid inside it from the previous MC which can ruin the booster over time. Just seems like quite the coincidence.
 
Thanks man, I'm dying to drive it. Little things keep popping up though. Should be ready tomorrow.

20170110_235319_zpsua2a76ia.jpg


There is a pic of the bottom of the booster. The fluid ate the paint, and then is started to rust. Probably the worst condition part on the whole car, needed to be replaced regardless.
 
That's what I thought. Not too worried about it.

Swapped in the new booster and DROVE the car! Piston slap goes mostly away but comes back intermittently. Doesn't sound bad though. Boosts LOUD. Hits 7 psi. Haven't revved it all the way out because it's still breaking in, full boost at around 3400. Hot oil pressure rests at about 20. Probably will lower it a tad. At least it holds great pressure though. Blowoff sounds amazing, afr drops off the gauge rich under boost, which is normal.

The car is definitely quicker than before, as it had 60psi compression on two cylinders. But still not fast by any means. Hopefully we can address that before too long. But right now I'm just happy to be driving it again.

Brakes still suck. The booster helped, to the point where I can stop the car if I pump them once. Before, pumping did nothing. Abs light is on, going to see what that's all about. My modified knuckles for abs might not work as I had intended. The sensors do sit maybe 1/16" further from the sensor ring than stock.
 
With the abs not working the speedo won't if it's pickup is from the axles, and modified knuckles. Standard protege uses the gear on the transmission. Which one do you use?
 
boostdprotegelx said:
With the abs not working the speedo won't if it's pickup is from the axles, and modified knuckles. Standard protege uses the gear on the transmission. Which one do you use?
Click to expand...


Factory speedo gear installed in tranny, abs threw what I believe is a code 11. Not sure what that means with these cars. Can I have the msp ecu use the speedo gear in the tranny?
 
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Code 11

Sounds like you have a broken or shorted wire as opposed to a weak or bad signal.

If that's your only code they you've probably got the other side working.



 
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Thanks! That's very helpful. Going to have to grind the passenger abs mounting point a little more to get it closer to the ring. But appently my drivers side is working!
 
Check your harness for a broken or shorted wire.

Check the resistance of your speed sensor.
 
You'd probably throw a code 41 if you had a weak or no signal.

Your head unit thinks it's a broken or shorted wire.
 
And thinking outside the box, with the abs not working it could be preventing the breaks from working?
Sounds related anyway....


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