J&S Safeguard Install?

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808MP5

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GT3076R Pro5
Anyone installed one of these that can give me an accurate and step by step instructions on how to install it.

And by step by step instructions I mean even a 4th grader could follow and put this thing in...

The included instructions are pretty lame...
So from my understanding and from looking at the wiring diagram.

(CUT Near ECU)Pin#26 from ECU goes to Green on Safeguard
Then White from Safeguard to the cut wire from Pin#26 going into the engine bay.

(CUT Near ECU)Pin#52 from ECU goes to Orange on Safeguard
Then Blue from Safeguard to the cut wire from Pin#26 going into the engine bay.

Black Wire From Safeguard to ECU ground
Red Wire From Safeguard To Switched Ignition

Does this sound correct?
 
Where did you pick up a J&S? I have been looking for one for a while now. It doesnt sound like they are going to have the next version ready for a while yet. Sorry, I've got no help for ya on the install. GL
 
I picked it up from boostin...
Im pretty sure you can give J&S Electronics a call and pick one up from them
Here's a link to there website
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/

*edit.... search and you will find but it took awhile

Courtesy of TheMan
define "everything was installed right"
What I did to install mine:
Ignition Switched Power
- Splice into ECU Pin 97 (pin 71 also works and is what turfburn tells people to use)
Ground
- Splice into ECU Pin 77 (pin 51 also works and is what turfburn tells people to use or you can simply wire to the chassis... pin 24, 76, and 103 are other alternate sources of ground on the ECU harness)

Coil Pack 1
- Rerouted wire in ECU Pin 26
Cut wire and connected ECU side to Channel 1 input on J&S
Connect harness side to Channel 1 output on J&S

Coil Pack 2
- Rerouted wire in ECU Pin 52
Cut wire and connect ECU side to Channel 2 input on J&S
Connect harness side to Channel 2 output on J&S
 
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Can you use the stock knock sensor with the J&S? If not where is the recommended install location?
 
i used the knock sensor that came with the J&S there are two spots that you can put it on the front of the block...
 
s*** i got one too used, i need a knock sensor. i know they use standard sensors, which one do i get? this info is very helpful. BTW im gonna get this to work with an FTC (hopefully) and try to get my WOT box/Launch control wired up to work too.

edit: s*** i just realized, the WOT box require you cut the coil wires and connect both to one input wire on the WOT box
 
I received a sensor with the J&S. did yours have/need an adaptor fitting? to fit the sensor to the block? Are there any locations on the back of the block? is one location 'better' than the other?

I love pulling wires through the firewall, its my favorite thing to do!

Any tips on tuning with the J&S?
 
Just so everyone knows, I followed this thread for my latest J&S install, and I fried my ECU somehow. It could be a bad unit, but that's doubtful as it was hooked up before, but it also could be the 12v or ground on here, because after speaking with Steve @ NSN (turfburn) he said to wire it up differently.

So I am not saying this is wrong or right, but I had a serious problem hooking it up exactly like this, and ended up having to buy a ECU.

I'd say change your 12v to pin out 71, and your ground to 51, as per turfburns directions, just to avoid the possibility of having what happened to me happen to you.
 
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i just bought a safeguard and am having some issues with it. i was hoping to get the proper settings to make it work for me. i was told that there may be a few weird things that need to be done to install it on a P5. is this true?

do i leave the vacuum line unplugged?

i know i dont have to hook up the voltage clamp, but are there advantages to having the voltage clamp on the MAF or O2? I have an AEM wideband and an E6X. so does it matter?

is there anything i should know for dip switch settings? I read at the bottom of the page that dip 5 "MUST" be down. WHY? (i have it that way, but am just curious).
 
Leave the vac line hooked up, and with your E6X there's no need for the voltage clamp. Just hook up the 12V switched, GND, ignition 1/2 in/out, a vacuum source, and the knock sensor. Should be good to go.

I still have mine sitting in the car, disconnected. :(
 
I think switch 5 is for features that aren't implemented yet.

I've got a question... I bought a different OEM knock sensor that is supposed to work with the J&S, but this sensor has a two wire hookup. Does the included knock sensor have one wire or two? I know there is only one knock sensor input on the unit itself.
 
I installed mine without hooking up any of the extra features, it works fine just like that... I installed a vacuum cap over the port to keep dust out

the included sensor is a standard bosch knock sensor with 2 pins... wire connection is also 2 pins
 
the j&s i bought doesnt have a vacuum port and only has a one wire knock sensor. only 'extra' hookup available is the TPS wire, also only 4 pin dip switch.
 
jimmysuite said:
the j&s i bought doesnt have a vacuum port and only has a one wire knock sensor. only 'extra' hookup available is the TPS wire, also only 4 pin dip switch.
Click to expand...

That sounds like mine. I'll get pictures of mine this weekend, its at my parent's garage.
 
Knox Joe said:
Leave the vac line hooked up, and with your E6X there's no need for the voltage clamp. Just hook up the 12V switched, GND, ignition 1/2 in/out, a vacuum source, and the knock sensor. Should be good to go.

I still have mine sitting in the car, disconnected. :(
Click to expand...

So, do you know for sure it works with the vac line while having the E6x on it? I am trying to figure out why mine wont go past 3000 rpm with a little bit of boost. As I understand it, the J&S is "kicking in" at that point. Odd thing is that the LED's werent lighting up and the sensitivity was way down. My timing is set to how it came from Hi-Boost's pre-mapped settings (35 degrees advanced max before boost).
 
Signature Sound said:
so is there a way to turn it off? or if that is whats happening, then i should be able to just add a few degrees in that range and be fine right?
Click to expand...

Yeah, you can turn it off or down.

Here are the settings for the mid range dip switches. S3 is switch 3, S4 is switch 4. So if you have S3 in the 1 position and S4 in the 1 position you have 6 degress mid range retardation.


S3 S4 Degrees
1 1 6
1 0 4
0 1 2
0 0 0
 
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