adjust the small screw just 'behind' (firewall side) the IAC valve on top of the throttle body...its in a small recess, but can be easily reached with a phillips screw driver around the strut tower bar...DO NOT mess with the throttle plate adjustment screw, which is on the back of the throttle body below the throttle linkage/cable...that will adjust your TPS readings, and will create a nightmare for tuning on your microtech...and will cause all kinds of fuel issues with a stock computer, if you're still using one...
I'd say, don't worry about messing with that screw though until after a few starts...you're correct on everything else...Start engine after hitting each cylinder lightly with WD-40...it'll race initially as the wd burns off, but don't be worried about that, oil pressure will go sky high at start up and that is exactly what you want...after 10 or so seconds of high idle, which will quickly begin to settle down to 1200 rpm or so, bump it up to about 2500 rpm and try as best as possible to keep it there...do not exceed around 3,000 rpm if possible, and also don't load the engine for the first few minutes of this...
After a few minutes of that, the rings will be seated nicely...and you can safely drive around with light load...I'd say don't go over 4,000 rpm for about 250 miles of driving or so...at which point, change the oil/filter, and use whatever you're going to use normally...also, after the initial break in, see how your idle is...and adjust that thing accordingly...backing it out quickly increases idle vacuum, closing it the opposite...if you're stalling often on throttle lift after the engine is fully warm...start by backing that screw out a full 360 degrees and try again...it took turning mine about 1.5 full turns, haven't stalled since...