iracemine's purpose built N/A ST2 thread
- Thread starter iracemine
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What intake manifold are you running? Have you dynoed it?
I originally had them -3 and +3. So I am just going back to that. I would love to do ITBs but then I would need to make the microtech idle the car and I heard that it sucks for that.
-3/+3 is a huge Lack of overlap.These engines due to their small cylinder diameter like the late intake ram effect when you Retard both cams, rather than more early in/ex overlap, where the mix will blow out the ex leaving less to burn. I have a 626 intake manifold. I used a GTECH PRO RR and best run was a 15.20 @ 91.8, 6.69 0-60 car wieghs 2900 with me in it. on the Horsepower calculators based on the weight and speed, looking at 170 whp. over 200 at the crank. I have to slip the clutch at about 4000 and the tires spin once the clutch is out all the way to 7000 with a MSP LSD, alot of the wheelspin is due to the 7lb flywheel.
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I might have missed it, but what is the race weight of the car? I got mine scaled last year at atuoX at 2,545lbs with 1/2 tank of gas, but still trying to shave more and stay in my SMF class. I have changed things up from then too and probably around the 2,450 mark right now.
Is that weight with you in it?
With all the stock brake components being replaced and a couple heavy seat brackets removed its now about 2156 completely empty. So add 1/2 tank of gas and my fat ass of 180lbs. Oh and add some new roll bar.....
So that and a bit of paint I just might be back up over 2170 empty again. Witch reminds me I will need to get corner balanced again.
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That is without me. It is probably around 2,600 with me in it and I usually autoX with a little over a 1/4 tank of gas.
Nice! Are you usuing a fuel cell then or the stock gas tank?
So great news... Car wont start. Tuner says its the microtech. All I did was swap out the mani and cut off the vtcs and vics and the stock knock sensors. I dont think that has anything to do with the starting functions. And the file name was wrong. So I uploaded the forth slot (my tune) and the name came back wrong. Also the water temp value is not showing up. I run the test and the injectors are not firing. They have power to them and the coils are good. Cant figure it out. Thinking of getting a block heater, but it seems like a band-aid to a real problem. Not sure if I want to send this microtech back to au or if I should just buy a haltech.
Just wanted to get this last tune and be done with it. Was looking forward to a full year of nothing but racing. Now I am not sure what the **** to do. I feel like lewis7789. This just became not fun anymore. Should have bought the VanDemen.
Just wanted to get this last tune and be done with it. Was looking forward to a full year of nothing but racing. Now I am not sure what the **** to do. I feel like lewis7789. This just became not fun anymore. Should have bought the VanDemen.
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Noooo! Don't sell her! I miss my P5 a ton. P5's handle great, are cheap to work on and get parts and are plentiful.
I really hope you get her sorted out, man. Sorry I'm not much help with the electronics and wiring though... You know me...
I really hope you get her sorted out, man. Sorry I'm not much help with the electronics and wiring though... You know me...
Don't give up! Go Haltech so you don't have to worry about back and forth with AUS
Haltech is from Australia too
I apologize for not reading the entire thread but are you running the Microtech as a true standalone or are you still utilizing the stock ECU for some aspects? If the latter is true perhaps the stock ECU relies on some kind of ready signal from the VICS, VTCS, and/or knock sensor to prime the fuel pump? Then again it could just be the Microtech based on your account of the file name getting corrupted. I never did like the Microtech anyway. Not for the Proteges or rotaries.
What have you tried and not tried? You keep posting you have problems but neglect to tell us what you have tried, what the results are etc.
Cant help much without details man. Have you check the coils? i.e. that they are functioning as they should i.e. are the coils firing? Why did you remove the knock sensor? Is the fuel pump priming? Have you checked your grounds and wiring for the injectors? Is the IM done up tight? Are there any leaks? Have you checked your vacuum? as the the microtech runs MAP.
The above problems aren't due to a microtech there universal problems. Some may be fixed by swapping simply due to wiring. The easiest and best thing to do when you have problems is start going back to the last point in origin that it worked. I'd add the knock sensor back in.
Cant help much without details man. Have you check the coils? i.e. that they are functioning as they should i.e. are the coils firing? Why did you remove the knock sensor? Is the fuel pump priming? Have you checked your grounds and wiring for the injectors? Is the IM done up tight? Are there any leaks? Have you checked your vacuum? as the the microtech runs MAP.
The above problems aren't due to a microtech there universal problems. Some may be fixed by swapping simply due to wiring. The easiest and best thing to do when you have problems is start going back to the last point in origin that it worked. I'd add the knock sensor back in.
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Water temp not showing up? Is coolant circulating and bled well? Do a diagnostics check on all your sensors. ALso you can get rid of that mass airflow now if you haven't already.
UOTE=iracemine;6242701]So great news... Car wont start. Tuner says its the microtech. All I did was swap out the mani and cut off the vtcs and vics and the stock knock sensors. I dont think that has anything to do with the starting functions. And the file name was wrong. So I uploaded the forth slot (my tune) and the name came back wrong. Also the water temp value is not showing up. I run the test and the injectors are not firing. They have power to them and the coils are good. Cant figure it out. Thinking of getting a block heater, but it seems like a band-aid to a real problem. Not sure if I want to send this microtech back to au or if I should just buy a haltech.
Just wanted to get this last tune and be done with it. Was looking forward to a full year of nothing but racing. Now I am not sure what the **** to do. I feel like lewis7789. This just became not fun anymore. Should have bought the VanDemen.[/QUOTE]
UOTE=iracemine;6242701]So great news... Car wont start. Tuner says its the microtech. All I did was swap out the mani and cut off the vtcs and vics and the stock knock sensors. I dont think that has anything to do with the starting functions. And the file name was wrong. So I uploaded the forth slot (my tune) and the name came back wrong. Also the water temp value is not showing up. I run the test and the injectors are not firing. They have power to them and the coils are good. Cant figure it out. Thinking of getting a block heater, but it seems like a band-aid to a real problem. Not sure if I want to send this microtech back to au or if I should just buy a haltech.
Just wanted to get this last tune and be done with it. Was looking forward to a full year of nothing but racing. Now I am not sure what the **** to do. I feel like lewis7789. This just became not fun anymore. Should have bought the VanDemen.[/QUOTE]
Update:
I found that the microtech starts to do really weird s*** when the voltage gets close to 12V. And when under (even including drops under cranking) it wont work at all. When I have the charger on the battery the microtech acts fine. So no problems I can tell with the Microtech (I get gas, spark, no error lights)
Orion you helped me pick out the new spot for the second water temp sensor. So yeah I have a 93 small block chevy water temp sensor running the microtech. However I might trade them and have the microtech run off of the stock and have the stock ecu use the chevy one. I will do this to try to get the temp readings closer to what they really are. And yes I have tried a couple of different wt sensors to make sure they are not bad.
I fortunately have the same car as a daily driver. So did a test. I unplugged the three sensors that I cut out from the race car, and started it at 10*F...... no problems at all. It started right up like always.
I have also put in NSN's tune on slot three and tried that to no avail. However I will be at a car show in February. I am hoping that they keep the building warm. If so and it starts then I know what to do. If it does not start I might have to start all over with a new ecu system. But months from now when its not cold as **** out. Speaking of which.... why arent you ausi guys not posting up????
I found that the microtech starts to do really weird s*** when the voltage gets close to 12V. And when under (even including drops under cranking) it wont work at all. When I have the charger on the battery the microtech acts fine. So no problems I can tell with the Microtech (I get gas, spark, no error lights)
Orion you helped me pick out the new spot for the second water temp sensor. So yeah I have a 93 small block chevy water temp sensor running the microtech. However I might trade them and have the microtech run off of the stock and have the stock ecu use the chevy one. I will do this to try to get the temp readings closer to what they really are. And yes I have tried a couple of different wt sensors to make sure they are not bad.
I fortunately have the same car as a daily driver. So did a test. I unplugged the three sensors that I cut out from the race car, and started it at 10*F...... no problems at all. It started right up like always.
I have also put in NSN's tune on slot three and tried that to no avail. However I will be at a car show in February. I am hoping that they keep the building warm. If so and it starts then I know what to do. If it does not start I might have to start all over with a new ecu system. But months from now when its not cold as **** out. Speaking of which.... why arent you ausi guys not posting up????
