Installed NGK BKR7E-11's

t3ase

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So I went to NAPA to pick up their last two quarts of Royal Purple Racing 21 and special order another two and thought I'd pick up some of the infamous NGK spark plugs while I was at it. I gapped them to about 0.8mm (.030in) as the stock ones were and put them in. After finishing installed, I started up the car and noticed that it did not hang up at 2k rpm as it normally does when it's cold out, but that was only once so I don't know if it was due to the plugs or just coincidence. I haven't put my foot in it yet, so I don't know if it's helped out anything performance-wise, but it's worth it just for the safety aspects.

One question though.. As mentioned in the reply from NGK in another thread, it was recommended that we close the gap a bit more due to the increased boost. Should I get back out there and adjust it to 0.7mm? What're the coincidences of adjusting a spark plug incorrectly?

To replace spark plugs:
1) Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolts on the black engine cover with "Mazdaspeed" logo on it then remove cover.
2) Also using 10mm socket, remove the two bolts on the front side of the ignition coils.
3) One at a time, GENTLY pull spark plug wires out of holes by grabbing their base (be careful, engine may be hot) and pulling directly up. You may need to move the ignition coils out of the way a bit to get to some of them. The two inside spark plug wires are directly attached to the ignition coil, so do those at the same time.
4) Grab a 16mm deep socket with an extension and look down into the uncovered holes. You'll see the end of the spark plug. Just put the socket in there gently and unscrew the spark plugs for a while. I didn't have any other tools so I just kept unscrewing until it felt loose inside there. Remove the socket and if the spark plug is still in the hole, grab the spark plug wire from the left cylinder and put it in the hole deep enough so it grabs on to the plug. Then pull it out.
5) After all plugs are out, check the plugs with a gapper, found at your local auto part store. My plugs were gapped at 0.8mm. Check yours to be sure they're the same.
6) Using the gapper, check the new plug's gap and if neccessary, bend the top of the plug until the gap is set correctly. This may take some time, or it may not.
7) After plugs are gapped correctly, one by one, begin reinstallation. To do this, I again used the left spark plug wire and pushed the plug into it enough for it to hold it safely while putting it back down into the hole. Once it's in the hole, screw it a bit with the wire attached and then pull the wire off. The plug should still be in the hole.
8) Using your 16mm socket again, tighten the spark plugs as tight as you can get them without stripping the plug's thread.
9) Put wires back into the holes again being careful not to put too much stress on them. They can and will break if enough stress is applied to them.
10) Bolt ignition coils back into place along with engine cover, if desired.
11) Start car and hope you don't blow up.
:D
 
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I was told to go with the "-11". That is the last # in the plug model #. Go to this link, look at the far bottom left under "numbering systems", click on NGK, and it will tell u about what all of those letters and numbers mean. The "-11" is the gap. I hope this helps. Or u could just match the gap of the stock plugs.

THE LINK:
http://sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp
 
Although I did get the *-11's, I just matched the gap of the stock plugs. This was the first time I had replaced spark plugs, so I didn't want to experiment and screw something up. So far; so good, though.
 
Will do. I'm going to a small car meet tonight. If I can find a dry road somewhere, I may open it up a bit. I don't feel like driving off the road though. :D
 
Good instructions, but I would like to add or suggest a couple things:

- I recommend buying a plug socket since they're not expensive and make removal/install very smooth. It's basically a normal socket with a rubber insert that grips the top of the plug.
- I recommend torquing the plugs to something greater than 12 ftlbs and less than 20 ftlbs. This is probably much less force than you think. It will take alot more force than that to strip threads in the plug hole, but do you really want to chance it?
- When reinstalling the 2 plug boots that are not attached to the coil assemblies, make sure to press down until you hear and/or feel the contacts 'click' together. This was very noticeable on my car and should be observed to guarantee contact at all times.

Oh, and I gapped my BKR7E (stock#6097) plugs to 0.032" per JoeP (kwiksti) recommendation on another thread.

Peace...(hippy)
 
good advice guys and nice write-up. At last all the spark plug information comes together in one place.
 
BKR5E BKR7E whats the difference

I think you guys have a miss print or something i got the ngk bkr5e-11 ngk v-power i asked if they had 7e but nope well all auto zone and advanced auto carry is the bkr5e
 
what is the best spark plug to run, in the msp? getting ready to change not sure what ones to get.
 
Why buy an -11 when we can get an -8?

Don't get so hang up on the last numbers as they are mostly for manufacture purpose/gap from manufacture.

I think you guys have a miss print or something i got the ngk bkr5e-11 ngk v-power i asked if they had 7e but nope well all auto zone and advanced auto carry is the bkr5e

BKR5E - those are 1 step hotter then the stock , this isn't what you should be going if you have MSP, you must go 1 step colder once you boost 12+ psi or stay stock range NGK-ZFR6F.


what is the best spark plug to run, in the msp? getting ready to change not sure what ones to get.

Define "best" - how you define best ? , by price , performance or both ?

You could easy go by w/ regular plugs on MSP or go w/ platinum or even IRIDIUM (best for racing, auto-x).
All the plugs differ someway/somehow, beside performance characteristics they have different changing interval habits so you can get a cheap/regular plug but would want to replace them fairly more often or get a premium grade and be safe for a bit longer.

Just a quick view:

regular plug = grocery getter, easy drive, light abuse (type of drive), relatively stock condition

platinum plug = light-moderate abuse, auto-x (type of drive), moderate modification , longer life then regular plugs, more boost then stock but less then 12 psi

IRIDIUM plugs = moderate-heavy abuse, race/auto-x (type of drive), moderate-heavy modded, 12+ psi boost , life depends on abuse/drivability

But then again ppl mix and match plugs based on their opinion.
 
Back from the dead.....

Interesting info here. I use zfr6f-11 on my msp. I heavily autocross my car in stock class. Would i be doing my car a favor and stock power levels in the Kansas heat using the ix plugs? Will they last much longer and give me every bit of spark i need with a car that has no power mods(only filter and catback)?
 
Back from the dead.....

Interesting info here. I use zfr6f-11 on my msp. I heavily autocross my car in stock class. Would i be doing my car a favor and stock power levels in the Kansas heat using the ix plugs? Will they last much longer and give me every bit of spark i need with a car that has no power mods(only filter and catback)?

I ran the ix plugs a long time ago and found that the car didn't run quite as well, especially in the winter and the plug life was not any better. Been running the stock ngk plug you mentioned ever since with no problems
 
Iridium versus Platinum versus Copper... Spark plug material does not affect power output of your vehicle... Coppers are good for about 30k and iridium is good for about 150k. If you plan to keep the car for awhile then the choice should be obvious. Worry about heat range and gap and you will be all good.
 
Iridium versus Platinum versus Copper... Spark plug material does not affect power output of your vehicle... Coppers are good for about 30k and iridium is good for about 150k. If you plan to keep the car for awhile then the choice should be obvious. Worry about heat range and gap and you will be all good.

on a normal car, iridium plugs would last longer than copper or platinum. Platinum plugs are good for 100k on most cars, but our cars run so rich that the plugs become fouled after ~30k miles and need to be replaced. Combine that with the fact that the tip on iridium plugs is so fine you can't really clean it and you probably won't see any extra life out of them.

on a stock car, I found no benefit from switching to iridium and like I said before, the car actually ran worse in the cold winter weather.
 
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