I got the *clunk* from somewhere near the trunk.

C

C.W.

★ Carter ★
:
Mazdaspeed 6
I noticed a fairly decent clunk that I could hear and feel as I apply moderate breaking after using the throttle. I have seen a number of threads that cover this issue and it seems like the same symptom others have discussed. I tried replicating it with the hand break up one notch and can't. I called my local dealer and setup an appointment for Monday to have them check it out.

If it is the rear diff mount / bolts would this be a good time to replace the mount with one of the after market ones or should I just have the dealer replace the stock one? I am wondering about cost here and wearing out a stock one again. How difficult is this job? I have access to a good shop and might have a go at it myself if it is not a super complicated deal. I tried finding a DIY thread on this but failed. Any info is appreciated.
 
Depends how you want to spend your money. If the dealer will replace it under warranty, that frees up money for other mods. If not, IMHO, go aftermarket.

I haven't done it, but I've read that it's a very time consuming job. I am saving for the mounts and will make them my next mod.
 
540i to MS6 said:
Ive got a clunk in the trunk too. Is the rear diff mount for sure the only possible cause for this?
Click to expand...

I am still not 100% sure even after a dealer visit Monday. According to them nothing was broken, sheered or obviously loose. They said the bushings for the rear diff mounts could be replaced along with the front motor mount. They also found some movement in the rear diff but they were not sure if that was normal or how much is acceptable. They said that they are just are not familiar with these cars. They could only compare it with as CX-7 because those have drive trains that are sort of the same. By the way, this is supposedly a Mazdaspeed certified dealer (whatever that means).

They also told me that there are two bracket mounts (a left and a right) for the rear diff. For some reason I thought there was only one kind. In any case, I am going to try a different shop. Hopefully, they will have more experience and insight as to what is going on.
 
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Good stuff. Keep us posted.

There's no doubt the rear diff mount isn't very substantial but, in my case, my clutch is slipping and I need new tires and I need to paint my trunk and don't quite have room in my budget for this repair.
 
If its the diff mounts, I say go aftermarket. It's only a matter of time before the bushings or bolts shear after the dealer replaces whatevers broken with a new one. I just got my SU stiffdiff yesterday and some people say that it takes between 3-9 hours to install it. I'm doing mine on lifts this weekend and I'm aiming for 3 hours. I get a clunk whenever I shift gears so this Sat, I'll find out and maybe take some pics. But either way, replacing the diff with an aftermarket one is well worth it. It's easier to just do the rear sway bar, rear diff, and front diff mounts since you have to drop the diff to do those. Saves a lot of time.
 
i also have gotten a clunk but mine is more repetitive in the front left side whenever i stop and go.

any ideas??
 
No more clunk! Thanks CP-E RMM. I guess that tightened things up. I am still going to get the stiff diff and diff mount when I get a chance. But for now I am good.
 
yeah, it turns out the stock RMM bushings were shot and I guess all the movement was causing the drive train to make noise. The new RMM is awesome. I know that has been said many times before, but it's true. It's just much, much better. I do have a noticeable vibration at idle, but it does not really bother me and I am pretty sure it will subside a bit as things wear in. If I turn my heated seats on and sit at idle I get an experience for free I'd normally have to pay for. lol
 
C.W. said:
yeah, it turns out the stock RMM bushings were shot and I guess all the movement was causing the drive train to make noise. The new RMM is awesome. I know that has been said many times before, but it's true. It's just much, much better. I do have a noticeable vibration at idle, but it does not really bother me and I am pretty sure it will subside a bit as things wear in. If I turn my heated seats on and sit at idle I get an experience for free I'd normally have to pay for. lol
Click to expand...

you already need heated seats there? damn. fall is here already.

RMM is on the list of s*** to get, my dashhawk comes tomorrow, dunno what to get next, TMIC or maybe RMM. or turboback? (headbang)
 
event said:
you already need heated seats there? damn. fall is here already.

RMM is on the list of s*** to get, my dashhawk comes tomorrow, dunno what to get next, TMIC or maybe RMM. or turboback? (headbang)
Click to expand...

id say depending on how FAR you plan to go with mods, you may want to start saving for a tuning solution... ap, sb, or ht.
if you sticking to just a few more bolt ons, then by all means. i dont think in your particular area a TMIC upgrade would be that beneficial.
so from ur ideas id say go exhaust first. what mods u got so far?
 
My trunk clunk? Lugnuts were loose on my drivers side rear wheel. I had a dream about my wheel coming off and I woke up wondering if that was the problem. Sho 'nuff.
 
Just put in an 500 mile engine from a 2008 MS3. It's like a brand new car. My engine was a turd by comparison (turbo had a half inch of axial play, as an example) and I haven't even laid into this new one. But, it was installed and somehow the throwout bearing got damaged. Making a s*** ton of noise. Gonna talk to the mechanic to look at my options.
 
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