flat_black
Member
Fully open, as in as far as it CAN be open, then. =) But most definitly, it is worth removing. Otherwise I wouldn't have written this how-to. 
How-To: VTCS Removal and Porting
- Thread starter flat_black
- Start date
flat_black said:Fully open, as in as far as it CAN be open, then. =) But most definitly, it is worth removing. Otherwise I wouldn't have written this how-to.
hehe flat_black! YOU'RE the man! This is definetly one of my priorities within next few months (thumb)
Protege_Speed
Member
- :
- 2002.5 ES Auto with MSP Conversion
I get it. So it doesn't open all the way. It's still at an angle. Sounds like I am going to have to do this mod next.
flat_black
Member
Hehee. I was trying to make a decision on a colour scheme, but I got lazy somewhere, and stoped messing with it. Maybe I'll change the page colors entirely.
Hey, I separated my IM a couple times. I couldn't find the torque specs for the bolts that hold the two halves together. I tightened it a bunch once, and I think I flattened that metal gasket a bit. I'm wondering if it needs replacing. It sucks beause I just spent a day putting in new papers gaskets between the head and IM. I'd rather not replace another gasket and find out that's not the problem either.
I have had a really bad idle for god only knows how long now. Is there any way to pinpoint vacuum leaks? I tried it with spraying carb cleaner all around, but that didn't seem to work.
I have had a really bad idle for god only knows how long now. Is there any way to pinpoint vacuum leaks? I tried it with spraying carb cleaner all around, but that didn't seem to work.
flat_black
Member
Yeah, that's usually what I suggest is spraying carb cleaner around all the possible places; Injectors, intake manifold mating points, throttle body, and so on. With the car running of course, so you can hear any burps in idle.
Protege_Speed
Member
- :
- 2002.5 ES Auto with MSP Conversion
flat_black, I put this together for myself to make it easier for me when I go to actually do this mod. I thought I'd attach it here and maybe you can put on your site if you like. I hope you don't mind.
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flat_black
Member
Oh, very nice. =) Thank you, Protege Speed! Consider it stolen and posted, with a to-be-linked-to page. I'll make sure to give you credit. =)
Protege_Speed
Member
- :
- 2002.5 ES Auto with MSP Conversion
Thanks but you don't have to. We're all here to help each other out.
(drinks)
(drinks)
flat_black said:
Protege_Speed
Member
- :
- 2002.5 ES Auto with MSP Conversion
Oh no, I didn't write it. I just copied flat_black site and put it in a file.
SIBalla23 said:
- :
- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
What about just removing the screws/butterflies and leave the actuator hooked up so no plugging necessary? Air flow should be improved & no annoying screws to fall into engine.
Little Beavis
Member
- :
- 2001 MP3-T (#911)
i12drivemyMP5 said:
After removing the screws/butterflies, there is nothing that holds the shaft in place. So pull it out, grab a 1/8" npt tap and plug and you're done.
I just removed the VTCS. It's really not that hard thanks to the great writeup posted in this thread. It's a pain getting the IM out of the car with all the hoses in the back of the engine bay, but that's the worst part.
I portmatched using a template I put on the head. That way I didn't overport or underport. That took a lot of time because I have to wait for the air compressor to recharge.
The result, sounds better, accellerates a bit faster. I never did before/after accelleration runs, but I should have. I really like the throaty sound from 4000 to redline. There is a noticable (yet small) increase in power. The FS-DE still needs cams, but I'm sure that portmatched IM, header, and no VTCS will help when I do get cams (1 more year on warranty).
Just to let everyone know, I used quicksteel on all the holes. I cut off the bar the butterflies were on at the end, pushed it into the quicksteel and rotated it a bit. It looks like nothing ever happened. The rubber seal around the butterfly support bar was good enough before, should be better now. It wouldn't be easy, but I could thread the hole if I run into problems down the road.
I portmatched using a template I put on the head. That way I didn't overport or underport. That took a lot of time because I have to wait for the air compressor to recharge.
The result, sounds better, accellerates a bit faster. I never did before/after accelleration runs, but I should have. I really like the throaty sound from 4000 to redline. There is a noticable (yet small) increase in power. The FS-DE still needs cams, but I'm sure that portmatched IM, header, and no VTCS will help when I do get cams (1 more year on warranty).
Just to let everyone know, I used quicksteel on all the holes. I cut off the bar the butterflies were on at the end, pushed it into the quicksteel and rotated it a bit. It looks like nothing ever happened. The rubber seal around the butterfly support bar was good enough before, should be better now. It wouldn't be easy, but I could thread the hole if I run into problems down the road.
flat_black
Member
I love the way my Protege sounds, now. =) So evil. I'm glad everything worked out for you!
And I concur, regarding the crazy hoses everywhere. Hehe.
And I concur, regarding the crazy hoses everywhere. Hehe.
