How-To: Test 2.3L Turbo Engine Serpentine Belt Pulleys

Rut Roh.. my bad....

Just inspected the tensioner pulley a little closer after my last post, the pulley is molded around and encompasses the outermost edge of the bearing so any attempt at removal will result in destruction of the pulley, regardless of how carefully you set up the press.

And Thank You for making this a sticky, I feel like I'm somebody! :)

No problem, since the pully is only 15 bucks.

Guys, I put the tensioner pulley on, and the noise is completely gone. I tried to take the idler pulley off because it seemed to have play like C.T.B.B had mentioned in his original post, but couldnt for the life of me get the damn bolt broken, free. It's a 10mm bolt. Anyway here is a before and after. I have to say, it's so noticeable that the noise is gone when i am driving. The old pulley felt grindy like it had no more lube in the bearing.

Before:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZTLNSFZW20

After:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPmFRecCD1k
 
Last edited:
C.T.B.B,

What did you use to get the idler pulley bolt off? The thing is on so tight and there is no room for a socket wrench.
 
my car was making a clicking noise like liquidflem's but it turned out to just be a pebble wedged between the splines of the serpentine belt. can't imagine how it got up in there. gremlins perhaps
 
Sorry, I haven't checked this for a while, didn't mean to leave anyone hanging. No pics, my bad, hadn't intended to make a how to, just started writing. If you need em, open your hood and take some, it's all right there staring at you, at least as much as most other serp belt setups you see anymore.

If I recall correctly I took the through bolt that held the tensioner onto the front of the motor out, then took tensioner to bench/vise and took out pulley bolt where I could get at it. Pretty straightforward as I remember it.

Since a few people have liked the idea of getting smacked in the melon with a long screwdriver when it gets caught in the belt when you're listening to bearings, here's a similar way to have your whole forearm cut off, or at least a couple fingers. Don't laugh, could happen, probably has sometime, somewhere. If you don't know what you're doing, don't attempt this any more than you would try Russian Roulette, you don't do 2 out of 3, you lose once, instant fail.

VERY FIRMLY grasp a regular wooden handled wire brush, the kind you'd use for scraping paint off the barn, with both hands, find an open spot somewhere between pulleys, and firmly press the wire ends up against the grooved side of the belt with the engine running. Does a great job of deglazing and popping out small rocks and pebbles that can make gawd awful noises as the belt spins. Probably does a small amount of instantaneous wear to the belt, maybe you lose a little life out of it, oh well. Recommend not doing it out in the country alone in case you do cut off your forearm, could bleed out b4 you found help. :)
 
This is excellent! Great way to pioneer solutions to problems man, I congratulate you on that!

My only concern however to this, is replacing the bearing/Pulley on the tensioner is not the solution. There is a TSB for this problem, and it has to do with the main washer that holds the pulley to the tensioner assembly. The Updated part uses a smaller washer and possibly an updated pulley. Design flaw. But, you never know, this may never give you grief again. My 07 is still working off the original tensioner with 93k on the clock, so its rather hit or miss.


Either way, great job!
 
This is excellent! Great way to pioneer solutions to problems man, I congratulate you on that!

My only concern however to this, is replacing the bearing/Pulley on the tensioner is not the solution. There is a TSB for this problem, and it has to do with the main washer that holds the pulley to the tensioner assembly. The Updated part uses a smaller washer and possibly an updated pulley. Design flaw. But, you never know, this may never give you grief again. My 07 is still working off the original tensioner with 93k on the clock, so its rather hit or miss.


Either way, great job!

Interesting you say this. I noticed the washer was very large on my tensioner and had to be careful to center it while tightening the bolt, otherwise it would put pressure on 1 side of the tensioner.
 
Very interesting about the TSB, I'd checked my Alldata system and didn't see anything. Do you have a publication date or TSB number? I'd really like to see what it all says, I'll look for it here too.

Do you know why they went to a smaller washer? I don't recall having any alignment issues when putting it back together, maybe I got lucky the first time? A large diameter washer would help prevent dust/dirt/whatever from getting to the outer parts of the bearing. I have to guess that somehow the old washer style was contributing to the bearing failure, the bearing was certainly the problem with mine.

Thanks for kudos.
 
My tensioner died at 23 000km last week.. changed under warranty

Mine is starting to make the same noise again (this time its the after market one). Either that or it's the idler pulley bearing that i have yet to replace.

If it is indeed the tensioner, again, i wonder if it's the washer issue causing it to fail.
 
My idler bearing is definitely shot - lots of play with the belt off. So how do you remove/replace the idler bearing? Are special tools required? And how did you get the idler pulley bolt loose? I can't budge it with a cheater bar - the whole engine is shifting! It's not reverse thread, is it?
 
Last edited:
Finally got that sumbitch off - I ended up sticking a pry bar (with a nail claw on the end) onto the end of a box-end wrench from above and whacking it pretty hard about 10 times with a mallet. 20ft-lb my ass... I suspect that when my engine replacement was done, the tech decided to save time and just set the impact wrench at 80ft-lb to reattach everything to the block.

As far as the idler bearing, I found a washer that was the same diameter and hammered on it until it came out. Same deal with the reinsertion. Probably not the recommended way to press in a bearing, but it got the job done.

BTW, all rattling noises are gone.
 
My 2007 just started making this noise 2 weeks ago. I thought it was the alternator going bad since thats where the noise was coming from. Then I found this thread :)

Can someone please tell me if the tensioner pulley is the smooth small pull next to the alternator? Where is the idler pulley and what does that look like? How do you get the belt on an off? to change these?

Thanks for the help!!
 
Back